Upper Control Arms

I feel like I can already see the outside edge wearing down. Maybe I'm just looking too hard though.

 

I would bump the 5100s down a notch or two. It will ride and wear much better. Unless you already crammed 33's on there..

 

Dont you have a depth gauge? Theyre cheap for piece of mind.

 

He can ask for 2.5 caster all he wants, but it's not possible with stock control arms.

 

They didn't touch your caster or camber. They only adjusted the toe. Take it back and tell them to do a true alignment and to set the caster as high as they can get it.

 

Fucking assholes. I knew 500 for installing my lift tires and rims was too good to be true.

 

Yep, the closer to 3 degrees the better.

He can get a lot closer than 0.8 that's for sure.

 

Right, but asking for something that's not possible isn't going to do any good.

Like I told him in his other post about this, he got a "toe and go" alignment from a lazy tech.

 

With stock control arms, the alignment you got was most likely the best they could do. They could reduce your camber a bit, and get a tiny bit more caster, but no where near what you need. They can't just "dial in" what you want when the adjustment is at it's limit.

The numbers that you show, if they are correct, should not be visible to you, and should not be causing any increased wear. Something doesn't add up! If you can see your tires leaning in, then those numbers are not right.

If you drop back down to 2" of lift, you can probably get your caster to the minimum level, BUT on a lifted truck, A better value is around 3 degrees.

Bottom line, you have two choices:

1. Drop to 2 " of lift, set your camber low, and try to get your caster to the minimum setting. You will get good tire wear, but your steering will be a bit twitchy, and your truck will tend to wander. I drove many miles like this, and you kind of get used to it.

2. Buy a set of adjustable UCAs like the Light Racing set-up. Then they can set your caster to 3 degrees and keep all the other numbers good. Keep the camber near the low end though! You can also move your lift back to 2.5.

 

Justin is right...

 

Yeah. According to that list doesn't even really look like they touched anything. lol. Surprised they had the balls to even print it out and give it to you. My guy was able to get me 1.9 caster on stock UCA with a 3.25" lift. I will eventually get some TC but not in any rush as the truck rides fine. Take your vehicle to a better shop.

 

to me appears to be a (to much negative) camber issue not so much caster.

 

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying.

His slightly positive camber is actually halfway decent. It's his low caster that's a huge problem.

I could get him a better alignment in my garage in about 10min with basic hand tools and my eyeballs.

 

X2....his camber is actually good for these trucks. The higher end of spec wears tires. The caster is actually a safety issue. If you are not "driving" the truck every second, it will wander off the road. I'm surprised they let you leave the shop like that. Caster is what keeps your truck steering ahead safely.

 

SPC arms and be done with it.

I did 5100s at 1.75in and caster could only be about 1.5* which was a little low

SPC arms, im at 3.4* caster per side, -0.4* camber, and .1* toe in per side and its PERFECT. tire wear is even and it tracks dead straight.

Seriously dont bother with the stock arms especially at max lift height with the 5100's... one your stock arm likely hits coil at full drop, 2. upper ball joint is probably limiting droop, and 3. your alignment will ALWAYS SUCK. Spend the 400 bucks or so and get spc arms and be done with it and enjoy driving your truck again.

 

i though OP stated his wheels were leaning in at the top ? That is not caster.. to me sounds like strange camber

 

I've actually noticed this since I got the lift. It is a lot easier for me to end up over the line now

 

This is the closest to being right answer! It looks like all they did was measure and not make any adjustments at all. Shit was probably seized and they didn't want to screw with it. Not sure how people come to so many conclusions without knowing what tire size you run, either? Looking at the numbers, you must drive with the wheel turned a little to go straight(meaning the wheel is not centered)? They didn't do any adjustments at all or the caster numbers would have changed. Caster is basically front to back adjustment in regards to position of the wheel in the opening. It is impossible to adjust camber or caster without both changing a little. The only thing changed was camber and that was from the lift changing the angle of the wheel slightly, which is why the caster stayed the same, because they never turned the cam adjusters. When lifting, "in spec." in not necessarily what you want, but many shops will go there. Yours for the most part is within spec, but shitty for a lift

 

The total toe in the front after the alignment is 0.10" toe in. Within the specs.

 

I read it wrong. The SAI(straight ahead) numbers are way off. Either way, they just put the shit on and made no adjustments. The alignment sucked before they did the work looking at the "before" measurements.