Upset... advice?

Thank you for the most excellent, and useful info.

Best regards,
-Jan

 

Hah! Quite right, perhaps there is a TSB for ones bowels. Nice catch, that has since been edited

No worries, you were not the first.


Update: the noise is more of a brief crunch than a clunk, the best description I can give of the noise is that it sounds like something is suddenly catching and spinning up to speed with the rest of the engine. Anyhow, I shall leave it to the Toyota techs.

Thanks again to those that helped!

 

Yeah, I see your point. Also illustrates how mistrust breeds more mistrust.

If I'm expecting you to find any old excuse to deny me warranty coverage, then I'm going to be circumspect in providing any information that might give you any excuse to do that, won't I?

 

I redline my truck every once in a while when it gets loaded up.

 

Good points ...... trust is a big thing in my book ..... with family, friends, co-workers, and businesses I deal with ..... the truth always comes out.

As My wife says, "Jimmy couldn't lie to save his ass." Telling the truth has gotten me in trouble time and again.... .

 

I'm a terrible liar. I hate to lie about anything. But I'm pretty good at just keeping my mouth shut.

 

I hear ya .... my problem was my wife did not tell me that just because my in-laws asked me a question that did not mean they wanted to hear my answer, or what I thought for that matter ..... .

 

ok my really good friend use to drive a 2005 mustang he added NOS to it, every time u hit the NOS button it instanly hit the rev limiter very very hard. we use to take it to the track a lot and we would use the revlimiter as a tool at the track to make it track correctly around corners (everyone at this track does) the rev limiter i dont think had anything to do with this, either your motor has a problem that the red line brought out or its nothing. if toyota says nothing i would redline it for 15 seconds. see if it gets better or worse. Good luck, i really wouldnt worry about redlining a stock motor for 15 seconds.

 

Yea, take it to the local dealer (Toyota warranty is valid at ALL dealers, not just where you bought it. In fact, I never take mine back to the dealer I bought it at lol). Do what you're planning, just describe the symptoms and no idea how/why it happened.

I suspect a mount as well. Unless it's always making the clunk under acceleration all the way through, then I'd suspect valves (one is bent, it skipped a tooth or something). Either way, it's warranty work.

Just to note, I used to bounce my G35 6mt coupe off the rev limiter almost every single day with no issue (about 7,250rpm). Also though, on that car cruise would auto disengage if I shifted to prevent such things. I'm surprised the tacoma's don't have it :/

Also, make sure you go over the truck for any TSB's you want (such as the rear AAL tsb and such). Make sure they get done, never trust a dealer (let alone a salesman) for anything. They'll say whatever it takes to make the sale 9/10 times.

 

But you don't coast nearly as far when you're in gear, and it's much harder to keep up your momentum...so you will need to accelerate sooner and from a lower speed, thus using more fuel to get back up to speed.

 

Actually come to think of it, the clutch probably disengaged it in the G35. With the Taco's setup I can't believe you're power-shifting... it's weak enough doing it normally. Unless you're really, really good at hitting the exact mark every single time.

 

this is in no way at all the same in a manual transmission.

and sliding the transmission into neutral without pushing the clutch in and not under power we call it loose power when its in gear and but the motor is effectivly not doing anything. and if your use to driving the truck is not a problem, it is if you miss neutral and go into another gear.

 

It's fine, that is what the limiter is for. It is to protect the engine from damage and it sounds like it did it's job. Try to forget about it.

 

I have to disagree, my Scanguage shows significantly lower instant MPG readings when I am engine braking (coasting in gear). If I remember correctly (I will test this tomorrow for sure), the TPS (throttle position sensor) is higher when coasting in gear, as opposed to when coasting in neutral. Anyone else with a Scanguage to confirm this?

If the computer is giving the engine a few more points of throttle, it will be burning more fuel.

When coasting, the engine is still burning fuel, it will still be supplying enough fuel to maintain idle at the very least.

Also, if you're trying to coast for a longer time, you're much better off in neutral, as you will coast long... its called using an 'engine brake' for a reason.



This info is based on general knowledge and common sense, the truth of it could well be different.. in other words, I could be wrong.

But generally, you will be much more efficient if you're coasting in neutral.


PS: If your Scanguage reads 9999mpg while coasting in gear, there is a setting to change to prevent it doing that, it should never read 9999mpg. I'm pretty confident in saying that if the engine is on, it is burning fuel, even if the fuel cut has been cut to idle, or near idle levels. Any experts here to lend a helping hand?

Regards

 

Perhaps I am wrong about the other things... but think about it, coasting in neutral means there is no engine braking, which means it will be a LOT longer until you have to gain speed again.. I guess it really depends on how you drive, but if you aim for absolute highest possible MPG every day (hypermiling), I know I have found that I get SIGNIFICANTLY better MPG by shifting into neutral.

Aside from the laws of physics, you're probably right. I have a long (hour) drive planned tomorrow, and will do some testing.

Best regards

 

That's what I would do.