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URD 2.85 stealth supercharger pulley install

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by crashnburn80, Feb 13, 2016.

  1. Jul 13, 2018 at 5:22 PM
    #141
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    Procrastination. I’ve had the pump for a long while as it was strongly recommended with the smaller pulley. It’s been running fine so far, but the truck is also newer (2015). I’d rather get it in there to be safe, then the door is also open to smaller pulleys.
     
    Norton likes this.
  2. Jul 27, 2018 at 3:06 PM
    #142
    Hot Tacoma Blown

    Hot Tacoma Blown Well-Known Member

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    Super charged,urd u - conn computer 7th injector, headers, pipe bomb y pipe,high flow exhaust.etc....
    Put mine in with urd u-conn headers etc.They what it.Feed The Beast!!!!!!
     
  3. Jul 27, 2018 at 6:21 PM
    #143
    ThomasMore66

    ThomasMore66 We can't stop here, this is bat country!

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    12TRDTacoma likes this.
  4. Aug 24, 2019 at 4:47 PM
    #144
    heel_touge

    heel_touge Well-Known Member

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    Eibach Pro-Truck-Lift system Icon RXT Leaf Pack Dirtking UCA’s Magnuson Supercharger Nitto Ridge Grappler Warn 9.5 Hella Rally 4000 ARB goodies everywhere
    Gents.

    I’m in need of some quick guidance.
    I boiled the pulley, started the press and all was going surprisingly smoothly until boom. snapped the set screw on the URD tool. I freaked out scrambling to find all the bits for fear of everything cooling down. Got the parts on and started back up, then BOOM snapped the other.
    Ok. I realize now I needed an extra hand to hold the pully from spinning and to get more set screws.

    I grabbed a torch and 3 more screws, now everything has cooled and I can get this thing down the last 1/8”!

    Please advise! Should I warm the teeth with the torch in an effort to heat just the pully? Should I freeze it? Shit! It won’t move. I need this thing running by tomorrow night so priority is high.

    Thanks guys!

    Edit: this is on the steel stealth pulley BTW
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2019
  5. Aug 24, 2019 at 4:56 PM
    #145
    Athlaos

    Athlaos Cthulhu is my co-pilot

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    Stuff you probably shouldn't try at home. Check build.
    Well, I'll tell you what I would do... put a 1/8" thick washer on the two pulleys right beneath it.

    In fact, I don't have to tell you what I would do. That's what I DID do. And it works totally fine, been like that for a couple of years.

    Otherwise, you're probably going to have to buy a really expensive puller or cut the pulley off and buy a new one and try again.
     
    Redsyota likes this.
  6. Aug 24, 2019 at 5:21 PM
    #146
    heel_touge

    heel_touge Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the quick response!

    My concern with that is possibility for an untrue press. I would really like to get it flush as it should be.

    I still have the puller and could pull this unit, order another and try again, but damn that would be an expensive mistake.

    Any others who have tried to re-heat mid install?
     
  7. Aug 24, 2019 at 5:39 PM
    #147
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    That steel pulley is really on there if cooled down, getting it off is a PITA, much harder than the OEM pulley. If it was the aluminum you might have luck moving it again, but the steel one has a death grip once cooled.

    If you decide to remove it, head to Sears and pick up the Craftsman 5 ton puller. If you replace the pulley you might try the quick change pulley next, so you install the shaft and can bolt on different pulleys.
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/supercharger-quick-change-pulley.497402/
     
    Norton and Torspd like this.
  8. Aug 24, 2019 at 6:16 PM
    #148
    heel_touge

    heel_touge Well-Known Member

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    I keep thinking the torch is the answer, but my thought is that it would heat the snout just as quickly.

    Am I crazy to think that I could heat the outer perimeter of the pulley then spray brake clean into the snout to cool it?
     
  9. Aug 24, 2019 at 6:27 PM
    #149
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    The torch will heat the shaft as well, remember you need to heat the inner part of the pulley, which is now pressed on the shaft. Using a compressed can won’t get the shaft cold enough when the part you need to cool is in contact with the hot pulley.

    Your going to need to use the washer suggestion above, maybe temporarily, and/or redo the pulley attempt with a new pulley. The pulley will not survive being removed.

    Is your OEM one damaged from removal?
     
    Norton likes this.
  10. Aug 24, 2019 at 6:35 PM
    #150
    heel_touge

    heel_touge Well-Known Member

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    OEM looks to be in good shape. I haven’t check bored or anything yet, but no scoring or damage on it.
     
  11. Aug 24, 2019 at 6:39 PM
    #151
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    You want to make sure it is still true, if it does not look bent you can remove your 2.85 if you don’t want to use the washer method and reinstall the OEM.

    If you don’t want to use the quickchange pulley, the URD aluminum 2.825 aluminum pulley is far easier to install than the 2.85 steel stealth pulley.
     
  12. Aug 24, 2019 at 7:01 PM
    #152
    420taco

    420taco Well-Known Member

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    I would get the press tool setup with tension on the pulley and start heating it. Continue heating it as you apply pressure on the tool.
     
  13. Aug 24, 2019 at 7:17 PM
    #153
    heel_touge

    heel_touge Well-Known Member

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    Ok, thanks for all the responses.

    I installed the belt and turned it over a couple times just to see how the belt sat. It looked like a washer behind the first idler pulley below the snout would get the belt tracking close enough to center. It has a long trip down to the crank pulley, which makes it a much more gradual angle.
    I tried the washer, eyeballed everything. Cycled it a couple times and not seeing any significant strain on the belt anywhere. I know it exists so I’m going to do this to get me to work next week , keeping a close eye on the sides of the belt and order the replacement pulley from Gadget.

    Now, I’m not sure if this is a characteristic of higher RPM inside the charger, but I’m hearing a mechanical whine coming out of the snout now.

    I did try a torch for a brief moment earlier with no luck. It was hot but I was able to touch it without burning my hands, so I imagine it was not quite past the 220 degrees mark. My concern now is that I overheated whatever bearing in there which may be making that noise? Or is it really just a characteristic of a smaller pulley?

    Also, test drive at max 30% throttle tells me I should have done this long ago! How did we not get these this way??? Ha.


    Thanks again for everyone’s insight!
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2019
  14. Aug 24, 2019 at 7:26 PM
    #154
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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    Smaller pulley makes it whine more, you’ll grow to like it. :) If it was safe to touch you shouldn’t have overheated anything. If staying with URD, get the aluminum non-stealth pulley, it is slightly smaller, goes on easier and being a 2014 warranty is about up anyway so no need for stealth.
     
    heel_touge likes this.
  15. Aug 24, 2019 at 7:39 PM
    #155
    heel_touge

    heel_touge Well-Known Member

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    Eibach Pro-Truck-Lift system Icon RXT Leaf Pack Dirtking UCA’s Magnuson Supercharger Nitto Ridge Grappler Warn 9.5 Hella Rally 4000 ARB goodies everywhere
    Very helpful, thank you.
    Yeah, the non stealth will likely be the replacement.

    Anyone in California have any smog issues with that one?
     
  16. Aug 24, 2019 at 7:42 PM
    #156
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 [OP] Vehicle Design Engineer

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