URD and TRD/Magnuson superchargers in DFW-

No one is talking about transmissions. Just the clutch.

 

That's actually a good point. Unless you have the transmission and oil cooler you might realize some issues with overheating the trans once you start putting more torque through it.

 

If you're referring to the clutch, it does indeed create an issue. I doubt I have even touched full boost on mine, yet I was noticing 5th and 6th gear slippage within a couple months of having the S/C. That was with a free flowing exhaust and larger air intake, though.

 

True. This is the root from whence forth comes the valve body upgrade, and or the upgraded automatic trans cooler.

@Camby has an '06. Assuming his clutch is original, it is the LuK brand clutch. Very stout, in comparison to the Aisin clutches which came out mid '08 - early '09. Those failed with hubs ripping off of the disk, left and right. Then they changed again sometime later. My LuK clutch didn't last but a few months with my extra power. Combined with the weight of tires and lift.

All a matter of when, not if. Taking into account the variables acting upon it.

 

So Nice! DO You have the TRD Flash? Does your AFR hold up well with the increase boost?

 

2.5??? Giddyup!

 

Yessir.. Stock TRD tune. AFR holds up great, but I also have a lot of supporting mods to go with it. I run the FPR mod as I notice a corresponding drop in boost as the AFR gets a little higher if I don't run it. Without the mod hooked up I peak at 9.7 psi boost. With the mod hooked up I top out to close to 11 psi on a 86* day.

Not to mention an added additional pep in general when the mod is hooked up. Overall it just feels better.

Once Ovtune is released for the second gen I'll pick up their tuner and use that to dial in the AFR's to levels that don't bounce between numbers at part throttle, but for now this does just fine.

Yessir! Vroom vroom!



Actually in this case, whineeee whineeee!

 

Sick! At some point down the road, I want to put a 2.85 pulley on; but at the same time dont want to disrupt my AFR curve...

 

I assume the FPR mod is moving the FPR vacuum line to a boost source? @snowsk8air2 have you done this?

 

Tee'd into the source where the boost gauge gets its vacuum and boost reference.

 

If you run the stock fuel pump the 2.85 pulley will require FPR mod most likely. Even in stock NA configuration the fuel pump has difficulty maintaining proper fuel volume, slap a SC on there and you are asking for trouble.

I have ran every pulley I have had on the blower (3.0, 2.85, and 2.50) with my aftermarket fuel pump so I have never had an issue with proper fueling volume.

The stock TRD tune is designed to overfuel rather than under at WOT. In stock SC configurations and even with the 2.85 pulley with a proper fuel pump you will see AFR's of around 9.0-9.8 without FPR mods. If you do the mod with an aftermarket fuel pump you will peg out your AFR gauge and be SUPER pig rich. Hope this piece of info helps you in the future.

Yes, instead of running the FPR line to the intake air box you run it into the boost source nipple at the back of the SC. If you have an AFR gauge you at that point require a T to run vacuum/ boost to both the gauge and the FPR at the same time.

It drastically affects AFR's depending on your configuration!

 

Would it be a lot to ask for some photos of the FPR Mod? Ive been looking online for a while now and still confused what gets connected into what. From what I gather, the FPR vacumm hose is connected to the intake port. The FPR Mod is simply disconnecting said vacuum line and connecting it to the boost port on the SC yes? Thats it???

 

Yes

 

That's basically it. Disconnect the line from the intake airbox or aftermarket filter setup, cap the port and reconnect the vacuum hose to the boost port. Simple.

 

Thank you!