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URD O2 Simulator

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Thelumberwagon, Sep 1, 2011.

  1. Sep 1, 2011 at 9:07 AM
    #1
    Thelumberwagon

    Thelumberwagon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    If any of you have been following my plight to resolve a CEL light on my 1999 Tacoma TuRD 3.4 V6, you know that I ordered an O2 Sim from URD.

    Well I got it yesterday and thought I would post the results for anyone that might be intersted in trying one.

    Needless to say, the results were less than exhilarating. :(

    When I pulled in the driveway yesterday I was delighted to see a priority mail box sticking out of the mailbox. I knew exactly what it was!

    So I ripped the box open to find my new O2 Sim and immediately scrambled under the TuRD to install it.

    Due to the ensuing excitement of my new doodad I was able to tune out the inferno radiating from the exhaust and the gravel being embedded in my back.

    I got the unit installed and ziptied to secure it.

    Since I don't have my OBD II scanner yet, I popped the hood to unhook the battery to reset the CEL. Closed the hood and proceeded to take her on a nice long test drive.

    I got 13.1 miles down the road and guess what caught my eye? THE CEL!!! PHUUUUUUUUUK!!!!

    So I immediately sent an email to URD Tech asking for advice. I haven't heard back yet but afterall, I just sent it to them yesterday afternoon.

    Now.....before anyone jumps the gun. I know I didn't reset the code using OBD II software so perhaps it was a pending code that just reared its ugly head. But I know on my Ram 1500, if I solve the CEL issue, the truck realizes this and resets itself so I was optimistic that my TuRD would do the same. Apparently not. Either that or my 106.00 gizmo from URD simply didn't work.

    As I said, I'm still waiting to hear back from them for some options but if you are thinking about investing in one of these, you might want to wait and see how my scenario evolves.

    I'll keep ya posted.

    :rasta:
     
  2. Sep 1, 2011 at 9:17 AM
    #2
    Thelumberwagon

    Thelumberwagon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I like the idea of that but all I get when I check (or when the part store checks my code) is P0135 Bank 1 Sensor 1. I haven't got my own OBD II scanner to check voltage etc. I know that isn't a good excuse but it's just the reality of my situation right now.

    I also was led to believe that the O2 sim on Bank 2 would correct a misread on Bank 1 since the two communicate through the ECM.

    Not sure if you noticed in my other post but the truck is CAT free. Another reason for the URD O2 sim.
     
  3. Sep 1, 2011 at 9:27 AM
    #3
    tacomaforlife

    tacomaforlife Well-Known Member

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    TRD S/C 3" sky jacker suspension lift,33" kumho road venture mt kl71's 16" 320c pacer wheels,billet grill,EBC slotted and dimpled rotors,super 44 muffler with gutted cat,smoked l.e.d. tail lights, deck plate mod with K&N filter,fog/blinker mod,cobra cb with 4' firestick antenna/100W PA,clear corners with l.e.d bulbs,55w back up lights,urd O2 sim., blue l.e.d bulbs behind gauge cluster.
    I have the same problem but my cel comes on and goes off when it wants to.
     
  4. Sep 1, 2011 at 9:44 AM
    #4
    Thelumberwagon

    Thelumberwagon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    PSU Taco85 has good advice for checking voltage with an OBDII but I think my hesitation is that once I find out what voltge is, and let's say it's not up to par.......then what?

    Take the guage cluster apart and surgically apply electrical tape to cover the light?
     
  5. Sep 1, 2011 at 9:55 AM
    #5
    Fink

    Fink Motorboatin' SOB

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    I fought with this on my '99 4Runner years ago when I went to replace my cat and noticed I had the Cali-spec with two cats. I didn't need two cats given that at the time, I lived in Arkansas we didn't have inspections. So I just replaced the front cat and installed the simulator. Here's a link to a long thread about it on YotaTech. Sorry for posting to another forum, but it's way too long to even paraphrase it here.

    All I can say is that it completely solved my issue on my '99 Runner; however, the CEL did come back on after the first test drive. I would try clearing it again and see if it repeatedly comes back.

    Something to note is the instructions that came with my simulator were incorrect and it had me splicing the wrong pair. Thankfully I had read enough about it that I knew the colors didn't sound right, so I went online and found out the correct pairs to splice.

    You might just double check that the instructions you have are indeed correct for your truck.

    URD should have great advice for you as they have always been outstanding when I have used them.

    Good luck!

    Fink[​IMG]
     
  6. Sep 1, 2011 at 10:13 AM
    #6
    Thelumberwagon

    Thelumberwagon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've replaced the front sensor with a new DENSO so I know that it's good. As a matter of fact, I don't think the old one was bad. I replaced it before I realized my CAT was empty. Someone hollowed it out prior to me owning the truck.

    As far as instructions, it was plug n play. No instructions included and pretty straight forward.

    I have a long drive ahead of me this afternoon so I'm going to swing by the parts store and have them "officially" clear it and see if it comes back.

    I have a hunch it will just because I've been fighting this for so long. I'm not sure my day would be complete without doing a stare off with my CEL....willing it to go out....but it never does, no matter how hard I stare at it.
     
  7. Sep 1, 2011 at 10:18 AM
    #7
    Fink

    Fink Motorboatin' SOB

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    Plug-N-Play?! What the hell is that?! :p

    They must have really improved their design since I bought mine back in 2005.

    Good luck on the trip - let us know how it goes!

    Fink[​IMG]
     
  8. Sep 1, 2011 at 10:39 AM
    #8
    Fink

    Fink Motorboatin' SOB

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    Man, that would have been nice.

    This just proves that URD is a great company that never stops improving their products. :thumbsup:

    Fink[​IMG]
     
  9. Sep 1, 2011 at 10:51 AM
    #9
    Thelumberwagon

    Thelumberwagon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I was reading about how they redesigned them and it was super easy.

    I'm trusting you guys that URD is as helpful as you say, that's one of the biggest reasons I went to them for the sim. So far I haven't heard back from them though. Fingers crossed

    Fink...
    I read your link. Sounds a lot like my issues but I think we are dealing with different codes but the same frustration level. If I knew how to include mine, I'd attach it. It has been such an ordeal. The thing that spooks me is that I am using an engine from a 97 4runner. But I was able to use my existing harness and everything plugged in where it should so its not like I have unused connectors or anything. It's been quite the experience.

    Bought the truck for 4000.00 and have about 1500.00 more in it which includes the new engine, steering pump, tinted windows, shit like that. So I'm not into it for too much. And it's a 4x4 TuRD ex cab. Did I mention that it is COMPLETELY rust free. Even the frame is amazing! So it's worth it to me to resolve this damn CEL issue.
     
  10. Sep 1, 2011 at 10:55 AM
    #10
    bicklebok

    bicklebok Well-Known Member

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    As I suggested before, a small piece of black electrical tape on the dash will cover that CEL right up. LOL

    Hope you get it figured out!
     
  11. Sep 1, 2011 at 10:55 AM
    #11
    Fink

    Fink Motorboatin' SOB

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    Are you even having any performance issues? Bad mileage, etc...

    I haven't read your other threads explaining the issues so I apologize if you already posted it somewhere. I'll try and find it now.

    Fink[​IMG]
     
  12. Sep 1, 2011 at 11:02 AM
    #12
    Thelumberwagon

    Thelumberwagon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    BICK!!! Good to see ya again! Figured I'd start a new thread rather than drag that old one out and after all, it is a new topic.

    I'm about to go the elec tape route! I'm about out of options and money

    Fink,
    No performance issues at all. Burns rubber like a mofo. I could probaby wheelie if I had enough traction. LOL

    Almost 19 mpg. 18.6 consistently to be exact and that's combined hwy/city. Only thing I notice is it smells a bit rich out the tail pipe.
     
  13. Sep 1, 2011 at 11:08 AM
    #13
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    A URD sim will not fix the 135 code. The 135 code is the AFR sensor (or sensor 1). Sensor 1 (first or second gen) has nothing to do with the CATs at all. Sensor 2 reads the CAT's performance. Sensor 1 tells the ECU how the bank is doing in reference to the Air/Fuel mixture.
     
  14. Sep 1, 2011 at 11:09 AM
    #14
    Fink

    Fink Motorboatin' SOB

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    That's almost identical to how my Runner was.

    I'd be leaning towards the tape/CEL bulb removal if I were you, as well!

    Fink[​IMG]
     
  15. Sep 1, 2011 at 11:23 AM
    #15
    Thelumberwagon

    Thelumberwagon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well 98taco, If the URD sensor won't fix my problem and the new O2 sensor didn't fix my problem. What other direction do you suggest I take? Considering the 135 code indicates Bank 1 Sensor 1 problem.
     
  16. Sep 1, 2011 at 11:26 AM
    #16
    Thelumberwagon

    Thelumberwagon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    And as far as the purchase of the URD sim, I'm hoping it won't be a waste of money as it is clearly marketed for vehicles that have the cat removed. Hopefully it will prove to be money well spent rather than wasted.

    Who knows. Still waiting to hear from URD.
     
  17. Sep 1, 2011 at 11:28 AM
    #17
    Thelumberwagon

    Thelumberwagon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks PSU. I'll try to pick one up with this paycheck. Do you think one from Harbor Freight will do what I need it to do? If so, I can pick one up soon and begin some testing.

    Be warned, it was your idea so when I get stumped, I'm gonna PM you and pick your brain.
     
  18. Sep 1, 2011 at 11:44 AM
    #18
    Fink

    Fink Motorboatin' SOB

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    [​IMG]

    Fink[​IMG]
     
  19. Sep 1, 2011 at 12:34 PM
    #19
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    The EFI relay controls more than just the sensor heaters. If it's bad, he would have other issues. The heater is a platinum strip (usually) inside the sensor itself. You can OHM that out.

    Also, AFR's are obviously engine specific, but they are also Emissions specific. A Cali emissions vehicle has a different AFR than a 49 state Emission vehicle.

    And good point on the OBD with real time read out. I've only got the "eraser" model.
     
  20. Sep 1, 2011 at 12:54 PM
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    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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