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URD short shifter kit

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by Ruddog, Feb 7, 2014.

  1. Feb 7, 2014 at 1:47 PM
    #1
    Ruddog

    Ruddog [OP] Member

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    2011 x-cab 2.7 5 speed
    vent visers,k+n air filter,100/80watt hella head light bulbs,step + bull bars
    Thinking of installing URD short shifter..any regrets or longevity promblems..
    with these thanks
     
  2. Feb 8, 2014 at 11:30 AM
    #2
    TacoVerde

    TacoVerde Well-Known Member

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    URD short shifter, OBX racing pedals and titanium/carbon fiber shift knob, Rear speaker mod, Taco bed mat, Bed extender, taco door sill protectors, Black TRD floormats, AFE stage 2 CAI, Doug Thorley Header and Catback, Glassworks Unlimited front fenders/bedsides, Engage front LT kit,2.5x8 King co's with resi's, dj straps
    Pull the trigger man, I've had mine for over 3 years. I love it, and have had no issues with it. URD makes quality products and supports the 4 cylinder platform, unlike TRD.
     
  3. Feb 9, 2014 at 6:55 AM
    #3
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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  4. Apr 1, 2014 at 9:25 PM
    #4
    tacowagon

    tacowagon Well-Known Member

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    Toytec/Eibach springs, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Light Racing UCA, AFE ProDry, Softopper
    I just installed mine and it feels awesome!
     
  5. Apr 2, 2014 at 5:41 AM
    #5
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    Sat on mine and never installed it on the 05 AC. Glad I didn't because now I have it on the 08 RC. Love it.
     
  6. Jun 18, 2018 at 11:01 AM
    #6
    tacoburrito

    tacoburrito Well-Known Member

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    5100s. eibach coils. 285/75/16 km2s. leer cap
    Mine should be here today, stoked!
     
  7. Jun 18, 2018 at 12:56 PM
    #7
    tacoburrito

    tacoburrito Well-Known Member

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    And it’s here sans directions
     
  8. Jun 18, 2018 at 8:56 PM
    #8
    dirtdigginjoe

    dirtdigginjoe Resident meth-head

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    GTX 3071r @8psi...
    I mean it's a short shifter kit..does it really need instructions?
    If you've never dropped the trans before, I understand needing directions. Though any manual tranny is basically identical.

    The closest I can quickly come up with is Gadget's URD Install page since the kits are the same for our trucks.
    If you want to get real specific to the 2TR, read on. I made you a custom guide. Searching is your friend.


    To remove the center console, open the center console box and remove the carpet, there should be 2 or 3 10mm bolts. Then pull up the cup holder (it literally just pulls up) and there are 4 philips head screws. The back half of the console should come out now. Remove the shift knob then pull the rest of the console up and out.

    The shifter boot has 4 screws holding it down, remove those and the boot. Then the shifter plate has 4 10mm bolts, remove those and pull the shifter completely out.

    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]



    Step 4: Remove the small plastic piece on the end of the ball. It is pretty hard to take it out but I did it with my hands only. Don't be surprise, it will pop out with speed! don't lose it and don't break it because it is going on the new ball to install.

    [​IMG]
    Step 5: When the platic piece is out, install the two shims on the stock ball
    [​IMG]
    and then, slip the new ball on the stock one. Push it until it clics in place.
    [​IMG]
    Step 6: The guide highly recommend to put red locktite on the setscrew on the new ball. In my case, I put blue locktite because I am scared of red locktite on small parts like this that I would maybe, oneday, want to remove it.

    Step 7: Put some gasket maker on both side of the spacer and install back the shift stick with the new ball on it. Bolt it in place with the 4 new longer bolt that are in the package. Tighten it at 13lbs and it's done!
    [​IMG]
     
    Kees likes this.
  9. Jun 19, 2018 at 1:27 AM
    #9
    tacoburrito

    tacoburrito Well-Known Member

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    @dirtdigginjoe never have I ever dropped a trans! Thank you so much dude. I did search and only found a few threads specific to the 2tr and one mentioned something about staking and counter staking and how critical it was? The the thread became dormant and the OP never came back with an install pic/guide. I appreciate your help DDJ and hopefully can try and tackle this today after work.
     
  10. Jun 19, 2018 at 4:10 AM
    #10
    dirtdigginjoe

    dirtdigginjoe Resident meth-head

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    It's all good- the staking prevents the setscrews from backing out- I would use blue locktite if you're not comfortable using a punch or small flathead to stake the screws.
    The removal of everything to get into the shifter itself should take maybe 5min tops! It's very quick to do.
     
    tacoburrito[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Jun 19, 2018 at 5:02 AM
    #11
    tacoburrito

    tacoburrito Well-Known Member

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    I’m not even sure what staking screws means! I work in the trades so I’m definitely comfortable doing the work, I just have zero experience working on cars other than changing a flat and doing oil changes( hence the directions for referencing) thanks again DDJ
     
    dirtdigginjoe[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Jun 24, 2018 at 3:32 PM
    #12
    tacoburrito

    tacoburrito Well-Known Member

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    got the kit installed yesterday. was a very easy install and thanks to @dirtdigginjoe for the help! I havent driven too much but so far feels like a great improvement.
     
    dirtdigginjoe likes this.
  13. Jun 25, 2018 at 12:36 PM
    #13
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    these are staking screws............aka set screws
    [​IMG]

    Step 6: The guide highly recommend to put red locktite on the setscrew on the new ball.

    After you set them you strike the threads showing with a punch as insurance to the red Loctite that they will not back out............
     
    tacoburrito likes this.
  14. Jun 25, 2018 at 5:01 PM
    #14
    tacoburrito

    tacoburrito Well-Known Member

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    i just used blue lock tight and waited a few hours before I drove the truck. If you strike the threads showing what does that do? It’s still on the outside. I could see that from keeping the screw from threading in but not out
     
  15. Jun 25, 2018 at 5:05 PM
    #15
    tacoburrito

    tacoburrito Well-Known Member

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    @dirtdigginjoe you got the run around on the LCE headers? That’s next for me. Been sitting in my garage too long
     
  16. Jun 25, 2018 at 8:27 PM
    #16
    dirtdigginjoe

    dirtdigginjoe Resident meth-head

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    GTX 3071r @8psi...
    I mean it's super easy to swap a header in this truck. Take out the intake /air box assembly first, then remove the secondary air injection pump. After that, loosen the exhaust clamp just after your O2 sensors...then remove the header bolts Carefully. If I had pics I'd upload em, but I don't have an LCE header... I have a turbo manifold lol
     
  17. Jun 26, 2018 at 2:29 AM
    #17
    tacoburrito

    tacoburrito Well-Known Member

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    5100s. eibach coils. 285/75/16 km2s. leer cap
    Haha one day hopefully my engine bay will look like that
     
    dirtdigginjoe likes this.
  18. Jun 26, 2018 at 3:33 AM
    #18
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    The set screws on mine went in where you could see 2-3 threads above the screw so yes, there was a spot to strike it with a center punch and it keep the screws from unthreading. I did that and used red Loctite. Been good for 7 yrs & 125k miles so far.............
     
    tacoburrito[QUOTED] likes this.

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