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URD supercharger for 05+ 4 bangers?

Discussion in 'Underdog Racing Development' started by i2andom81, Apr 29, 2010.

  1. Jun 12, 2011 at 12:13 PM
    #301
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    well he stated that the basic kit would have a larger pulley and run less boost, i would assume that means that the dyno numbers are with a smaller pulley and obviously on 10.5 psi, was just trying to clear that up.

    and yeah thanks man, ive seen the kits on LCE, they are slowing developing stuff for the 2TR, i just was wondering if this would be a necessity or just a safe/smart thing to upgrade, or if the stock parts would hold up fine? He did do the on 10.5 psi and im pretty sure he didnt upgrade any internals
     
  2. Jun 12, 2011 at 12:13 PM
    #302
    snow dude

    snow dude Well-Known Member

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    Do you have to do any tuning and adjustments or can you just slap it on and go?
     
  3. Jun 12, 2011 at 12:14 PM
    #303
    jspadaro

    jspadaro Well-Known Member

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    This is true, but long-term reliability and running a dyno and a few test drives differ.
     
  4. Jun 12, 2011 at 2:01 PM
    #304
    TacoVerde

    TacoVerde Well-Known Member

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    damn, my 6 lug lol eh i like my ground clearance:rolleyes:
     
  5. Jun 12, 2011 at 2:32 PM
    #305
    2.7taco

    2.7taco Well-Known Member

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    Fat Bobs 2.75 lift and level with short AAL, 16x8 Level 8 Guardian Wheels, 245/75R16 Toyo Open Country ATII, custom trans shift kit(home made), Trans temp. and Vac gauge, URD fuel pump upgrade(going back to stock soon).
    Wished I had the money for the kit because if I did I would show how well the autos can handle it.:D

    I have a homemade shift kit for the A340E in the 5 lugs that I installed. It makes a night and day difference with shift firmness and clutch engagement speed.
    If your totally factory with an auto on a 5 lug I would look into making some 8mm thick by 21mm diameter spacers for your accumulators(B-2 and C-2 or the two larger accumulators) in the transmission to reduce the shift time and reduce clutch slippage. Before you guys ask yes it works I have ran that set up for over 20k mi. with zero malfunctions.
    If I even make an attempt to go from reverse to drive or vise versa it will hammer the U-joints pretty hard and jolt you in the cab.

    The autos can take the punishment with the right modifications.
     
  6. Jun 12, 2011 at 3:31 PM
    #306
    98_Mud_bug

    98_Mud_bug 98_mud_bug

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    oh believe me, i know the auto's can take abuse. my 98 has a auto with the level 10 valve body upgrade and torque converter. and i've beat on that thing with 4:56's and 33's but i dont know how the 2nd gen stock auto transmission will hold up to 10.5lbs of boost. thats alot of stress.
     
  7. Jun 12, 2011 at 4:22 PM
    #307
    2.7taco

    2.7taco Well-Known Member

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    The kit gadget is making is one with less boost for factory setups. Well until his stage 2 kit cones out. I just need the smaller kit.
    Even still the guts of an A340E has not changed much and the line pressure is greater than the 98.
    An increase of line pressure requires some very fine electrical work or a unique way of mechanically raising pressure without the electronic portion knowing what has happened.
     
  8. Jun 12, 2011 at 4:45 PM
    #308
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    only bad thing for me with this setup is the intercooler size. It looks like in the dyno video that the intercooler takes up pretty much all the space behind the grill, meaning that my Hellas aint gonna fit back there no more! I would say get a smaller intercooler but i would hate to compromise any performance with tha SC
     
  9. Jun 12, 2011 at 8:21 PM
    #309
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    hopefully that wasnt a smartass remark . . . . because those lights are clearly mounted on his bull bar! If you cant see that in that picture you sure can see it in the first video posted!!
     
  10. Jun 12, 2011 at 8:37 PM
    #310
    98_Mud_bug

    98_Mud_bug 98_mud_bug

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    ok? get a bar for the front then. the avid bar is bad ass and dont weigh much.
     
  11. Jun 13, 2011 at 12:46 AM
    #311
    Eldowr

    Eldowr Well-Known Member

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    So, nub question..

    The URD website has the "coming soon" section with prices listed at $3,895.00 - $5,995.00.
    Is this going to be the price when this kit is completed? If so, who wants to group buy with me in about 4-6 months?
    My wife is gonna be buying my 2011 Reg Cab sometime this month and when I get back to the states off this deployment I think the URD supercharger will be one of the first mods I do!
     
  12. Jun 13, 2011 at 6:52 AM
    #312
    Murd3rd

    Murd3rd I believe I Toyota harder than most

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    1st gen - it's got a built engine, a turbo, and waaaaaaay too much to list. 3rd gen - basic-bitch lift, S/C, Pro Wheels
    when you order the kit just buy you a smaller I/C and mount behind the front bumper, and sell the one that comes in the kit on egay or something
     
  13. Jun 13, 2011 at 6:57 AM
    #313
    Murd3rd

    Murd3rd I believe I Toyota harder than most

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    1st gen - it's got a built engine, a turbo, and waaaaaaay too much to list. 3rd gen - basic-bitch lift, S/C, Pro Wheels
    that is a great deal for pistons and rings and what not but what about connecting rods? when i tear my engine apart to replace with better parts i only wanna do it once, so has anyone heard of anywhere that is making forged connecting rods for the 2TR? and also our pistons(just the pistons themselves) are forged from the factory
     
  14. Jun 13, 2011 at 10:32 AM
    #314
    Underdog777

    Underdog777 Well-Known Member

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    It's been saying that on the site for months now. Like since last year. A group buy will more than likely happen anyway, it depends if Gadget organizes it himself, or asks someone else to. We will probably have to wait a while for the site to be updated, so best bet is to watch closely on here.
     
  15. Jun 13, 2011 at 1:19 PM
    #315
    Shemicals

    Shemicals Well-Known Member

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    i think it would be great if this kit was 3500 or less :)

    just sayin
     
  16. Jun 13, 2011 at 5:05 PM
    #316
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    thats what i figured i could do. I dont want a bull bar so im not gonna put one on and mount any lights on it! Thats the reason i put them behind the grill!!!! duh!!! haha
     
  17. Jun 13, 2011 at 8:47 PM
    #317
    jspadaro

    jspadaro Well-Known Member

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    Or just get one of the smaller lightbars. I wouldn't get a smaller intercooler.
     
  18. Jun 14, 2011 at 3:53 PM
    #318
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    a good idea too, but thats why i originally wanted to ask Gadget seein as how he hand built the system!

    Updates?????????
     
  19. Jun 17, 2011 at 7:39 AM
    #319
    &erson

    &erson Well-Known Member

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    since my truck is a daily driver, i am quite interested to see how the performance is effected specifically under 3K rpms.

    typically cruising rpm for me is 2k-2,500. On the dyno sheet provided, it's tough to see, but appears to cut stock power in 1/2 through my most used rpm range

    perhaps I am just reading this wrong

    thanks
     
  20. Jun 17, 2011 at 7:51 AM
    #320
    jspadaro

    jspadaro Well-Known Member

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    You must be lugging all the time...

    In any event, the more solid two lines are horsepower, the more faint are torque. Green is new, blue is old. There is more horsepower and torque everywhere, except where torque appears to drop suddenly below 2200... I question whether that's even accurate, though.
     
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