1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Urgent! Parking brake will not disengage!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by MacGyvR, Nov 21, 2011.

  1. Nov 21, 2011 at 8:10 PM
    #1
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2010
    Member:
    #40533
    Messages:
    448
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    Dallas, Texas
    Vehicle:
    03 Prerunner (5VZ-FE)
    OME 2.5", 881, Dakar, Nitrochargers
    This is kind of an urgent issue. My parking brake will not fully disengage anymore, and I have absolutely no idea how to manually disengage it. The parking brake lever applies pressure to the brakes no problem, but even when I slam it into place (I've been getting super frustrated with this) it does not cause the indicator light to go out.

    At first I thought the indicator was just stuck on because the brake line had a little play in it. But now that the weather is nice, I've been rolling with the windows down and I hear that metallic breaking noise when I"M NOT APPLYING THE BRAKES.:eek:

    Any and all help is appreciated!!!
     
  2. Nov 21, 2011 at 8:34 PM
    #2
    Konaborne

    Konaborne Pineapples on pizza Hawaiian does not it make.

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2010
    Member:
    #46536
    Messages:
    31,906
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Cody
    Kealakekua, Hawaii
    Vehicle:
    Lifted 00 TRD Off-Road
    fox extended travel remote resivoir coilovers, 14" eibach 600lb coils, All Pro tubular chromoly 1" uniball upper control arms, All Pro expedition leaf packs, 10" bilstein 5150 piggyback reservoir shocks 265/75r16 Goodyear wrangler MT/R kevlars wrapped around 16" Helo 791 gloss black, Mini H1 retrofits with 6000k bulbs, 18" magnaflow w/custom exhaust reroute various decals, Sockmonkey retro hood stripes
    bump for you OP

    have you checked the brake line?
     
  3. Nov 21, 2011 at 8:37 PM
    #3
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2010
    Member:
    #40533
    Messages:
    448
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    Dallas, Texas
    Vehicle:
    03 Prerunner (5VZ-FE)
    OME 2.5", 881, Dakar, Nitrochargers
    Yeah. It's not super tight or anything, but I don't entirely understand how it's set up, and I don't want to screw up a system that relies on tension because I didn't know what to do. I have pulled on it a bit to see if I could wiggle it loose, but that didn't work.

    It's not fully engaged, but I really don't want to have to buy new brake pads right now. I drive 300 miles/week because of work and school, and I've let this sit for too long.
     
  4. Nov 21, 2011 at 8:49 PM
    #4
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2010
    Member:
    #40533
    Messages:
    448
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    Dallas, Texas
    Vehicle:
    03 Prerunner (5VZ-FE)
    OME 2.5", 881, Dakar, Nitrochargers
    Yeah the light's stuck on. Where'd you get your free inspection?
     
  5. Nov 21, 2011 at 9:03 PM
    #5
    Leggo

    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    Member:
    #47805
    Messages:
    2,570
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Steve
    Newton,Ma.
    Vehicle:
    10 TRD Sport AC 4x4 MGM
    Kenwood HU,Infinity Kappa speakers (x4), Infinity reference tweeters(x2),10" Kicker sub, Box by Subthump, Infinty Five channel amp,DVD anytime bypass, DTRL Mod, Xtang trifecta, Fogs anytime Mod, Bed Mat,Westin running boards, Console vault, Maglite mod, Weathertechs,Autopage remote starter, Power tailgate lock, HID Bi Zenon, Hella Supertones,Rain guards,Rear leaf TSB,Steering shaft TSB, Fisher Homesteader plow, 886 reverse lights mod, Redline Hood struts, Hankook Dynapro ATM LT265/70R17, power sliding rear window, Auto dimming/on anytime Bed lights, Blue Sea fuse panel & 100amp Breaker, de- badged,Rear headrest's removed, imMrYo mirror relocation,Homeroshi grill
    It sounds like the e-brake cables are binding up. If you can get the rear drums off, you can "push" the cable ends back into place( extend the cable) but I think you will get the problem again as soon as you put the parking brake on. You need to replace the cables at the rear wheels it sounds like. The cable coming from the cabin usually doesn't bind up, but maybe. Good luck!
     
  6. Nov 21, 2011 at 9:14 PM
    #6
    wolftree

    wolftree Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2011
    Member:
    #64877
    Messages:
    684
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rick
    Ohio
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tacoma 4x4 Regular cab automatic trans,
    Rear Leaf TSB, Bilstein 5100s, extra leaf added
    Look for oil leaking out of a axle seal onto a rear tire and check rear differential for correct fluid level also.
     
  7. Nov 21, 2011 at 9:20 PM
    #7
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2010
    Member:
    #40533
    Messages:
    448
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    Dallas, Texas
    Vehicle:
    03 Prerunner (5VZ-FE)
    OME 2.5", 881, Dakar, Nitrochargers
    That sounds like a gigantic PITA. I will keep this in mind though.


    So the current brakes came with the truck when I bought it....16-18k miles ago.... So they might need replacing, but the whole "Making noise while i'm not braking" thing is really weirding me out. Is that normal?
     
  8. Nov 21, 2011 at 9:33 PM
    #8
    DonnoD

    DonnoD Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2010
    Member:
    #38459
    Messages:
    960
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    don
    las vegas
    Vehicle:
    07 dc 4x4 v6
    have you checked your brake fluid level?! the light will come on when fluid gets low. and if it is low and you dont see any leaks and you hear noise your probably gonna need new brakes but get it checked.
     
  9. Nov 21, 2011 at 9:38 PM
    #9
    Leggo

    Leggo slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2010
    Member:
    #47805
    Messages:
    2,570
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Steve
    Newton,Ma.
    Vehicle:
    10 TRD Sport AC 4x4 MGM
    Kenwood HU,Infinity Kappa speakers (x4), Infinity reference tweeters(x2),10" Kicker sub, Box by Subthump, Infinty Five channel amp,DVD anytime bypass, DTRL Mod, Xtang trifecta, Fogs anytime Mod, Bed Mat,Westin running boards, Console vault, Maglite mod, Weathertechs,Autopage remote starter, Power tailgate lock, HID Bi Zenon, Hella Supertones,Rain guards,Rear leaf TSB,Steering shaft TSB, Fisher Homesteader plow, 886 reverse lights mod, Redline Hood struts, Hankook Dynapro ATM LT265/70R17, power sliding rear window, Auto dimming/on anytime Bed lights, Blue Sea fuse panel & 100amp Breaker, de- badged,Rear headrest's removed, imMrYo mirror relocation,Homeroshi grill
    If the cables are binding up a bit, the rear brake shoes will actually be "on" a little bit. They usually loosen up after driving a while. I would not use the parking brake until it is fixed. ( I assume you have an automatic) usually the
    "squeekers" are up front and change sound while cornering and usually when you are on the brakes a bit. If the sound comes from the rear when not using the brakes,, you probably have binding parking brake cables. If the cable to the cabin is sloppy"loose" then it's probably the cables(2) at the wheels. Try to spay the cables down with WD-40 to get the oil inside the cable housing all the way to the wheels first. let them soak for a while and cross your fingers. Stop using the e-brake. Good luck!
     
  10. Nov 21, 2011 at 9:39 PM
    #10
    NelsonTacoma

    NelsonTacoma This is my derpawayinator!!!!!

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2010
    Member:
    #33969
    Messages:
    2,081
    Gender:
    Male
    Tucson, AZ
    Vehicle:
    06 PreRunner TRD Sport 03 4Runner Limited 4wd
    Bilstein 5100's , 6000k HID Hi/Low Kit, Magnaflow Muffler, 1.5 inch AP Wheel Spacers, Mudflap Delete
    This^
     
  11. Nov 21, 2011 at 9:43 PM
    #11
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Elon Musk Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2011
    Member:
    #53447
    Messages:
    27,832
    Gender:
    Male
    Keep us updated.
     
  12. Nov 21, 2011 at 9:47 PM
    #12
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2010
    Member:
    #34006
    Messages:
    22,981
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Roaming the PNW
    Vehicle:
    The RedHead
    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 SCv6 AutoTrans With Lots of Mods ADS COs w/Compression Adjusters Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Kartek 7" Limit Straps Plastics Guy Front Bumpstops Custom Alcan Springs +800 lbs +3" ADS 10" Stroke Triple Bypass w/Resi Rear Shocks Custom Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren Bumpstops 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Black 17x8 Konig Countersteer Type X 285/70r17 Falken A/T3w Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 255/85r16 Maxxis Bighorns Limited Edition (Relentless) Elite Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch Diode Dynamics SS3 Sport Selective Yellow Fog Lights in the Bumper Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro 4,000 Kelvin SAE Driving Lights with Clear Lenses on the Bumper Morimoto D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4300K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Dometic CFX 55im Fridge/Freezer Alpha II Hardshell RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack Denso 210-0461 105 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Magnuson MP62 Supercharger w/2.37" Pulley Haltech Elite 2000 Standalone ECU Denso 650cc Fuel Injectors Doug Thorley Headers Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump TransGo A340F Reprogramming Shift Kit Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT, Magnaflow 18" Muffler w/Vibrant Resonator 13WL Brake Calipers Braided Steel Brake Lines ScanGauge II OBDII Scanner Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio Larson 70CM/2M Antenna Uniden 520xl CB radio 3' Firestik Adjustable tip antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    Not the power steering reservior.... :eek: Check the brake master cylinder reservoir. :eek:

    Ben is right though. As the front brake pads wear, it takes more fluid in the calipers making it seem as though fluid needs to be added. If the level gets too low, the warning light it tripped. That warning light is the same as the e-brake light. It serves a dual purpose.

    Also, the squeaking noise you are hearing could be the wear indicators on the front brake pads.
     
  13. Nov 21, 2011 at 10:00 PM
    #13
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2010
    Member:
    #40533
    Messages:
    448
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    Dallas, Texas
    Vehicle:
    03 Prerunner (5VZ-FE)
    OME 2.5", 881, Dakar, Nitrochargers
    Okay, I blasted the brake line with some WD40 and hopefully that'll soak in over night. Brake masters has a coupon for a free brake check. I'll see if I can get away from work for a bit to get that checked out. I'll check the fluid in the morning and keep you guys updated.

    Thanks for the quick help, I'm glad we got the ball moving on this.
     
  14. Nov 22, 2011 at 6:15 PM
    #14
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2010
    Member:
    #40533
    Messages:
    448
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    Dallas, Texas
    Vehicle:
    03 Prerunner (5VZ-FE)
    OME 2.5", 881, Dakar, Nitrochargers
    the light went out as I was driving home from work today, but it's still making that noise while I'm driving. My dad and I are gonna take a look at the drums and see if we can fix it. The brake fluid isn't full, but it is above the min line by a bit.

    Does anyone know how to get the cover off this beast? I'm going to try the whole "pop it back in" thing.

    2011-11-22 19.07.28.jpg
     
  15. Nov 22, 2011 at 6:21 PM
    #15
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2011
    Member:
    #49636
    Messages:
    28,467
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Lake Tahoe
    Vehicle:
    2012 DCSB Sport
    ...too much shit to list.

    First off, I'll bet your light is on because you need to adjust your ebrake cable. Happens to mine every once in a while, adjust and it's done. It's very easy:

    http://www.lieblweb.com/ebrakeadjustment.html

    Secondly, to remove the rotor you will need two bolts. Thread the two bolts into the drum. There are several threaded holes in between the lug studs that you can insert your two bolts on opposite ends. Make sure ebrake is off and alternate screwing the bolts into the drum and the whole thing will pop off.
     
  16. Nov 22, 2011 at 6:28 PM
    #16
    racerxtaco

    racerxtaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Member:
    #48698
    Messages:
    119
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joey
    virginia
    Vehicle:
    01 xtra-cab 4X4 w/cap
    have you checked the parking brake cable bellcrank? its located on the backside of the drum, near the leafsprings. if this gets bent at all to the left or right or is not properly lubed, it will bind up like crazy and not allow the parking brake to disengage properly. this can get bent because of getting hit while driving or forgetting to release parking brake before pulling out. just check for "freeplay" while under the vehicle with parking brake off. actuate it by hand at the bellcrank and if it does not rturn then this is probably the culprit.
     
  17. Nov 22, 2011 at 6:51 PM
    #17
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2010
    Member:
    #40533
    Messages:
    448
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tom
    Dallas, Texas
    Vehicle:
    03 Prerunner (5VZ-FE)
    OME 2.5", 881, Dakar, Nitrochargers
    Actually I just stumbled upon that link before you posted it, and I think I'm going to do that. From the looks of it though, I will be needing to replace my brakes soon.

    I think I'm going to clean out the drums since they're off. Is it safe to just blast everything with that CRC brake cleaner?

    Is there anything else I should do while the wheel is off?

    2011-11-22 19.44.27.jpg
    2011-11-22 19.44.33.jpg
     
  18. Nov 22, 2011 at 7:12 PM
    #18
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2008
    Member:
    #9942
    Messages:
    63,981
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Murph
    Bama! Roll Tide
    Vehicle:
    2011 Taco 4x4 DCLB 2019 TRD PRO 4runner 2018 RAM 2500 mega cab
    20% Tint, OME 3"complete lift with Dakar's, Light Racing UCA's, 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 10 HP TW sticker, Ultraguage, B.A.M.F. Rock Sliders, MedicFab Bed Rack, Relentless front bumper, Air Flow Snorkel, Ham comms, Tech Deck
    If you fluid level is close to minimum even though it is above the min line if you add a little fluid the light will go off. The light is set to come on before you hit minimum. Ask me how I know this? I do all my own brakes and knew the brakes didn't need to be changed yet. Checked with a friend of mine who has worked on toyota since the early eighties I work with. Sure enough he said add some fluid and the light will go off. Just be aware when you change the front brakes, if you do them yourself, you will need to watch it and possible take some out or it will overflow when pushing the calipers back out. Hell dude, get a manual or watch a video on here. It takes like 10-15 minutes to changes the brakes on these taco's. Plus you get the satisfaction of knowing your learning something and don't have to rely on someone else or spend the money they charge. I promise you, you can change your front brakes.
     
  19. Nov 22, 2011 at 7:17 PM
    #19
    capetaco12

    capetaco12 .<>./

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2011
    Member:
    #53984
    Messages:
    4,452
    Gender:
    Male
    Cleveland Ledge, MA
    Vehicle:
    Sold: 33's,armor,crawler,dents, ect. 2020 Gladiator
    OME lift CBI sliders, front bumper homemade rear bumper 33x12.50 m/t Gears Aussie locker inchworm crawlbox Homemade flat belly
    This happens to me every year during inspection. Scince i never use mine when it comes time for inspection the stupid materials in the bell crank fuse together and i have to drill the little pin out every time:rolleyes: Because it freeze's up. You would think i would learn to just keep pull it when i park.
     
  20. Nov 22, 2011 at 7:41 PM
    #20
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2008
    Member:
    #9942
    Messages:
    63,981
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Murph
    Bama! Roll Tide
    Vehicle:
    2011 Taco 4x4 DCLB 2019 TRD PRO 4runner 2018 RAM 2500 mega cab
    20% Tint, OME 3"complete lift with Dakar's, Light Racing UCA's, 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 10 HP TW sticker, Ultraguage, B.A.M.F. Rock Sliders, MedicFab Bed Rack, Relentless front bumper, Air Flow Snorkel, Ham comms, Tech Deck
    Hell my truck is a 2000 with 207,000 miles on it and I haven't had to change the rear brakes yet. It's most likely the front squealers sounding and you need front brakes. Different brakes last different amount of times as well as for each driver. Your probably at the bottom of the brakes and the fluid is low because of that and throwing the light. Check your front brakes, you will probably be able to see them with just the wheel off. Either way even if you pull the spring and two pins to pull one out to check it will only take a few min.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top