Used Tacoma, sludged engine

Lisle makes a thick walled impact socket that works very well for removing balancer bolts if you can get an impact wrench on it. Napa may have it or local parts store or online.

 

I've only got an electric impact, and I'd have to pull the radiator and condenser to fit it in. I've used it for several front wheel drive cars where all that was needed was removal of the passenger front wheel and splash guard.

Suddenly I find myself unable to recall how I torqued those past cars after relying on the impact. Think I just relied on resistance from compression and the serp belt.

I'm going to try the washer trick tomorrow. the big box store didn't have the inventory to support it. Also put another tool on order via ebay. It's a ways away, but reasonably priced at $50. I'm struggling to justify throwing $100+ at the problem when the tools and kits I'm seeing are poorly designed.

 

I don't know if the "bump" method can be done on the 2.7 but I was unable to remove that bolt on my 4.0L using various methods and finally just resorted to trying that and it worked like a charm.

 

I doubt yall need me to say it, but you were capital R right. I tried grade 30mm m8x1.25 "grade" 12.9 bolts, 19 washers per to give them some bend resistance, and tried my pulley holder with a breaker bar on the bolt. Ripped the treads out of one of the 4 holes in the balancer

So I disconnected the radiator and plugged the ATF holes, lifted it up and tried my impact with a stubby 19mm socket and a wobble joint. No dice.
Finally, without reassembling a damn thing, I hooked up the battery and set up my breaker bar on the frame to bump it. One good click was all it took. Did you guys hear it all the way over in smartypants land? It broke loose immediately.

Here's how I had the radiator jacked for the impact. Ignore the breaker bar.


Here's how I had my pulley holder on the washered up M8 bolts.

And here's the breaker resting on the frame as God intended.

I'm sorry, gang. I'll be proceeding and posting up more pics of the job just for the hell of it, and as payment for your assistance

 

Keep working away on it, you will be back on the road soon & keep us posted!

 

You crack me up.

 

I swear I've got something cross-wired in my head, but the diagnoses I've received so far have been too vague and unactionable.

More progress tomorrow. I bent the bolts I wound up needing for my balancer puller while trying to make a balancer holder. Stay tuned and I might share what planet I'm from.

 

I bet the PCV valve is 100% clogged.
Drop the oil pan and clean out the sludge I will clog the pick up tube screen and you will get low oil pressure, otherwise. I've used Molly Flush without issues

 

Btw, if you get the right pulley holder, you can use that to hold the pulley when you go to install the bolt back on.

 

Should be here soon and I'll get to see if it works.
Here's the result of my creativity!


Anyways, timing cover is almost off. will be off today and i'll post up some junk

 

Game called on account of thunder storm. Remaining bolts are, I believe, the water pump housing and any in there, and those on the underside of the engine, whether its the oil pan or an intermediary piece of block in between.

There are two pain in the @$$ bolts behind the water pump outlet. You're likely expected to take the intake manifold off, but it can be done without if you're obstinate and accepting of some mild abrasions.

I'd been holding off on removing the water pump for fear it wouldn't be included in the mahle timing gasket kit, but it is. I'll avoid making jokes about said gasket's shape.

 

Anybody know what I'm missing to get the timing cover off?

Every bolt appears to be removed in accordance with the service manual, including the two behind the water pump outlet. The instructions are a little hard to follow as they intermix with full disassembly of the engine, and I'm already past budget.

Is there anything, say, to do with the crankshaft or behind an idler pulley that I'm missing?

I'll keep digging through the manual and try to endure an hour + long youtube vid on cover removal.

Cool news, the inside of the water pump housing looks brand new

 

I haven't read all the comments but I have some experience with an engine that never had an oil change.

I bought a Chevy with a 4.3 that had a significant rattle. I suspect some of the lifters were collapsed, stuck by the visible sludge that I found. I like to test options instead of just listen to advice that will cost me a lot of money, so I decided to run a quart of transmission fluid (because of the high detergents) along with the other four quarts of oil and change the oil in 500 miles. I figured the worst that could happen was blowing up an engine in a truck I had bought cheap enough to put a new engine in. So I drove the truck. 500 miles later I changed the oil thinking the rattle was less obvious. I dropped another quart of tranny fluid in and started driving again. 500 miles later the truck was definitely less noisy and I changed the oil again. More tranny fluid and another 500 miles. By then the engine wasn't rattling at all. Running good, no smoke, seemingly just fine. I ran that truck for 24K miles and sold it running just fine, for over half again what I'd paid for it.

I have no idea what kind of damage there is already in your engine... but if it's running good and you don't want to spend a lot of unnecessary money until you have to, you might want to consider my experience.

EDIT: I see you are already into the engine... so good luck and have fun.

 

I seriously appreciate every bit of input I'm getting on addressing the sludge. It really did freak me out.
I've never tried seafoam or anything else for this problem before.
I have played with various fuel cleaners before while cleaning injectors, and other stuff while partially rebuilding a gm 3.1 60° v6.

For removing carbon, I found nothing short of agitation (like a scuff pad or wire brush) and running hose water to be effective. For oil, grease and such I've long relied on simple green (presently, the pro xd type). And for fuel, I found every additive whether it be royal purple, lucas, sea foam, techron, and the list continues... They all seemed to act like lubricants facilitating any fuel goop/algae looking gook to pass through screens and get burnt.

I do think a cleaner, if it reaches the necessary areas, can handle the sludge in the tacoma's engine. My present plan is to remove it manually, wash n rinse with some simple green before reassembly, and do one quick cycle of liquimoly, followed by a reduced oil change interval. I'll be observing the oil color after the treatment and following change, then decide on how to proceed.

I hope nobody takes that personally, I just don't get to touch the truck much, so if my plan required frequent doings it'd likely fall through.

SOME COOL NEWS!!
The ebay tool I ordered is a match for the harmonic balancer!!


AND it appears to be made by KTC (Kyoto Tool Company), part of Nepros. Ritzy Japanese Snap-On. Maybe it isn't legit... But regardless, it fits!!!

Here's a link for anyone who might be interested:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2546824261...GwLoRjQSfa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

You’ve got this.

 

Sorry for the dozen edits. thing added my pics wrong.

@Steves104x4 Thank you kindly.



All the sludge is at the top! I didnt wipe it or anything..




Don't yet know why.

Also, I just had to pry at the bottom corners to get the cover off. Well, that, and remove two studs which have external torx heads on 'em because the cover wanted to lean off, not pull straight off. The socket for said studs would be 6mm e torx, which I did not have. I did however have some long nose locking pliers... So those studs will be getting replaced with regular bolts.



Can you tell I took an art class?

 

looking good - use a toque wrench going back together

 

@Dacapster Will do!

Sorry for the delay, I decided last minute upon realizing such a thing exists, to change the balance shaft chain and guides. Truck had bad vibration stopped in drive since we got it.
From the looks of things, the chain marks are way off when comparing to the Haynes manual that I picked up. I'm looking forward to the possibility that I might be able to resolve that issue.

In the mean time it's been lawn mower repairs, i need to rejet the carb on my bike, and take the oil pan off the taco to clean the pump screen.

 

Looks like the casting, on one of those bolt holes, broke partially.

 

@Torspd Sure did! Two nice cracks rendering that hole useless. I intend to run it still and replace it later if it causes a notable problem - not too hard to access.