Using Tacoma Truckbed inverter to supply a power station, despite Modified Sine Wave AC power

Truckbed Inverter use to supply a Power Station, and video. Applicable to Tune M1, OVRLND, and other canopy or wedge campers for an easy power recharge option.

Was msging with someone today about 3rd gen Tacoma, power stations, and how to use the truckbed inverter to supply one. I know several other trucks have an inverter this would apply to, such as F150s.

If you have an existing truckbed inverter in your model, you can make use of your alternator supply, and completely remove the need to get an alternator dc to dc converter, to isolate your start and house batteries, to limit current draw to avoid alternator damage, and to run thick 8AWG or 10 AWG cables from alternator to truckbed. You end up with a nice prebuilt alternator power supply, isolated from starter battery, ready to go.

Here is a video I made, showing the issues involved, and a quick solution and success.

Video shows using the 3rd generation Tacoma truckbed 120v outlet, to charge a

$699 Pecron e1500LFP Solar Generator 1536Wh, 2200W LiFePO4 Battery Backup, Fast Charging Power Station for Home use, RV, and Outdoor Camping

Pecron e1500LFP power station. The problem with Tacoma power is that it is a Modified Sine Wave (terrible), not a Pure Sine Wave inverter. No power station tested so far will accept the poor malformed ac power, including Pecron e1500LFP, Bluetti AC200Max, Ecoflow Delta2 Max, and Jackery. So you can't just plug your power station into the AC and charge it, you have to somehow convert that nasty power to something your power station will take, which means some dc voltage and feed it into a Solar Charge Controller port.
https://youtu.be/Pp2fd9_9oQ0?si=lFaO7Ywszmx32_04

 

The video is a good warning. People can destroy a battery charger/controller plugging it into the OEM AC inverter on the truck, that thing is really just made for running small AC motors like plug in AC car vacuums and standard AC blenders and should not be used with chargers. If someone ever hears a odd noise from a charger when plugged into an inverter, don’t keep it plugged in.

 

I have not run into any issues with charging my Jackery 500 via the AC cord. But it does have a built in AC to DC “brick” in the cord.

I’m interested in your installation of the rear bed lights in your access cab. Do you have a video for that?

 

Same with my Jackery 240.

 

Good information. Last florida trip I used the 12v cigarette lighter adapter to charge my Bluetti while running a 12v fridge in the back seat. Bluetti was only used so fridge would run during stops when the truck was off. Planned to use the bed 110v receptacle on the next trip for the power supply. Will the pug trip or the power supply just won't charge?

 

Good info. It seems the brick is just exactly what I show here, an Ac to dc charger, so it outputs dc to the power station whose motherboard accepts it.

The issue apparently is in power stations that plug directly into wall, where the ac to dc conversion probably happens in a combined charger unit, just like many mppt solar charge controller/ ac charger combo units now-- the AC power is hitting a motherboard that has protections for inputs built in and not accepting.

Rear bed lights came standard on 21 OR Tacoma.

 

The inefficiencies make my head itch, so I'd go through the trouble of running wires back to the battery.

 

Meh, for making use of existing inverter, socket, and wires, the efficiency hit is pretty cheap.
Also remember, I'm not hard wiring up a 2nd battery system, I am just plugging in a removable power station.

Victron Orion dcdc 12 12 30 gives 360W, $215.
25 or 30A over a 20ft total run, there and back 10ft, needs 6AWG. 15 ft each black red is $60 plus $10 crimps etc. Fuse and holder is $25.
Total $320

400W inverter draw x 85% ac to dc efficiency is 360W, same as above.
85% inverter efficiency means alternator delivers 470W, which at 13v is 36A. Victron is 87% efficient, so it pulls 31.8A from alternator. So all said, it is a 4A difference to alternator, not much. Oh, and the power supply was $67.

 

For the setup in your video - 85% for the inverter, and then maybe another 85% for your AC-DC supply. 73% efficiency together. I can replicate teh same setup, without the losses, with about 20 feet of 12 ga wire, a fuse, and some connectors.

I could see doing a bigger inverter though, just to take advantage of the higher charging rate. But thats a whole other can of worms, as you noted.

 

Wall warts tend to fail because they use a transformer instead of a switching power supply, the stepped pulse creates a vibration that physically wears down the coil until a short is formed.
There is indeed a convenience factor with the power stations where efficiency isn't of much concern if your trips are long enough that the station is always fully charged by the time you use it.

 

what power supply did you end up using thinking about going this route with a 400w while driving MOD for my eco flow delta 2

 

@Daulll
I got a Drok 60v 8A. I tested it decently, may post video.
1. Seems decent, but instructions to set constant amperage no matter volts are indecipherable.
2. I set 18v, 5.3A, to get 100W, fed that to power station 100w max port fine.
3. Set 60v, 6.8A, gave 385W or so. I need to plug a Kill a watt meter into truckbed then power supply tonthat, to see what it is pulling from truck.

4. I already blew fuse...at 60V 7.85A it blew. Which sux, because it's supposed to be 480W power supply, but not really. The fuse is a 250v 5A, I got one at ACE hardware to replace. The 8A is what blows it. So now I am staying below 7A with it.
5. I think it is decent, didn't see any voltage or amp fluctuations to worry me about inputting to my power station. Looks like I can run it at 350W or so from truck actually. Will post a video later.


Here is link
DROK 60V Power Supply, AC 110V 220V to DC 0-60V 0-8A 480W Buck Converter, Amp Adjustable Adapter Regulated 12V 24V 36V 48V 60Volt Switching Voltage LED Transformer Charger for Computer CCTV Lab

$64 DROK 60V Power Supply, AC 110V 220V to DC 0-60V 0-8A 480W Buck Converter, Amp Adjustable Adapter Regulated 12V 24V 36V 48V 60Volt Switching Voltage LED Transformer Charger for Computer CCTV Lab

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B18MM1YZ

 

Thanks for all the information I ended up having this RS pro driver laying around in my shop from a job that wasn’t used gonna give it a try I’ll let you know how it goes

https://us.rs-online.com/product/rs-pro/1618230/71291651/

Then to do the 400w anytime Mod after testing!

 

Can't you just use a pure sine inverter instead of the OEM one to resolve this issue?

 

Same. Zero issues charging our Jackery 1000

 

If you can find a psw inverter to replace the OEM one, that fits in there, post a link. You'll be the 1st guy in Toyota history to find it.

You could splice off the wires and stick a new one under passenger seat, then run the output wires back. Or you could just run 12v cables from battery to your bed under the truck. Or you could buy a dc to dc charger and install it and then run cables under truck to pickup bed...
... the entire point of this thread, and exercise, is to NOT have to run nrw wires, but to actually make use of what is already installed in the truck

 

Good to hear you have an easy solution for your Jackery1000!

So the Jackery 1000 has a power brick charger, that is basically the same as what I am doing here, using an AC to DC charger/converter. Older power stations, and small ones, used to come with a charger brick like this, to keep the power station small and light. New power stations, and 1500W or larger ones, all come with just an AC cord now. The charger is internal built into their motherboard.

The Jackery 1000 ac charger can only charge at a max of 180 Watts with that brick. I am trying to make use of the full 400W my Tacoma provides, to charge my power station faster.

Also, my Pecron will pull 1400W when charging from AC, if it is available! This is enough to trigger the over-current inverter protection on the Tacoma, and shut the inverter off, or even blow the protection fuse. Therefore, I need a device that ON ITS OWN can limit the watts to 400 or below. The old Jackery, charging at 180W max, has been bypassed for charge speeds by virtually the entire industry, all charging at 1000W or more now. So anyone with a newer power station will run into these issues, trying to use the Tacoma bed power supply.

It's great that your Jackery 1000 lets you just plug in the brick and use it! But it is old battery tech, Lithium Ion not LiFePO4 safer chemistry, and no one who doesn't already have one, and does any research, would probably buy one now, its like buying an iPhone 4 now, but at the price of an iPhone 15!

 

Made a new video, showing complete system and using my 480w power supply to charge the power station. Remember, this is a "brickless" power station, if yours has a brick and station pulls less than 400W, you could just use that. But my station will pull 700W and has no brick, so this power supply lets me set a limit of 400w so I don't trip the tacoma inverter.

@Daulll
https://youtu.be/QQK6141y1e0?si=7EpwTecwd9ft76wb

 

Great video thanks for the info again I ended up using the RS power supply. The eco flow lets u adjust the power intake on the app I just set it to 300w. So just need to make the time to do the always 400w mod now!