Using torch to loosen bed bolts

Hello all,

I am new here and this is my first post. I already searched but could not find the answer to my question.
I just purchased my first Tacoma , 2008, access cab, 4WD, 4.0 and auto.
If I use a torch on the thread side of the bed bolts to loosen them (fronts, to put d rings) from under, would I melt the plastic bed cover?

Thanks

 

Before I resorted to heat on those bolts.
I’d try to spray the threaded side with penetrating oil. Don’t spray the Torx head slot.
Penetrating oil in a Torx Head will cause it to cam out, and strip the head.
Take a big hammer and smack the head of the bolt. ( Make sure you don’t deform the Torx slot.)
Then make sure you have a GOOD quality fitting Torx Bit, use the biggest ratchet or breaker bar you have to remove them. My advice would be to loosen it a bit, then tighten it some. Go back and forth.
What you are doing here is cleaning the threads as you remove them.

What I wouldn’t do, is us an impact gun on them.
The nut on the underside of the bed has been known to break off.
If this happens it really not going to be fun at all to get them out.

If you have an impact bit driver, you might try it to break it free initially.
The type that you actually have to use a hammer and hit the driver.
Which shocks, loosens, and help mitigate stripping the head.

 

^ yes. Lube and smack with a hammer, then turn slowly.

if you can maneuver that torch above your gas tank… just make sure the camera is recording first.
I believe more than one person has punched a hole in the gas tank just trying to enlarge the drain holes, I feel a torch is risky here.

 

The bed bolts protrude out the backing nut under the bed and corrode over time. Makes removing them tough. I suggest that once you remove them, lather them up in antiseize before you reinstall.

And as a precaution I recommend everyone do this regardless of whether they need to remove their bed. It can help prevent headaches in the future

 

TnShooter,

All good advices. I actually did purchased an electric 1/2 in impact gun, which did not open the bolts. For past 2 days I have been spraying and trying with my 1/2 in breaker bar to gently move it a bit, but they are very stubborn.
I was going to buy an impact bit drive, as you suggested, but then I remembered torch always done magic in times like this and reduces stress on welded bolts as well. But, I am concern about the heat transfer to plastic bed cover. I was wondering if anyone tried that or not?

Thank you

 

Gutentight,

My wife is very excited and volunteered to record this from a distance.

 

If you want to thermal cycle it, get a can of compressed air to freeze the bolts ends. May not be able to get the air can upside down under the bed, but spray enough into a small container and you should have several seconds before all the liquid evaporates. Wear gloves.

Forget about the torch on the front driver side bolt above the gas tank especially.

 

I like that woman.

 

I wouldn't bother with the torch, it's not just a plastic bed liner the whole bed is made out of plastic.

 

I believe one guy had to resort to welding a nut on top of his. ( Still has me nervous)
And others used a Dremel to make flats and then a pipe wrench.
Good Luck

 

Could you get your hands on a welding blanket? If so, it could be used to shield the heat from the bed and fuel tank.

You will need to use good heat control. Hot may work. Color change hot will damage the plastic.

Personally, I've got the same problem. I plan to have the Toyota shop remove those bolts. Sure I'll have to pay, but they've had to remove bed bolts before during frame replacements or body shop work. I fully expect to purchase a pair of replacement bolts

 

Knute,

It is interesting that my frame has been replaced as well, and so I was expecting the bolts open easier than this.

In Minnesota we know all about rust and salt and... , but I was hoping it would be easier in this case.

 

Yeah, my frame was replaced in 2018. I'm in central Iowa. Know all about the winter road slime and consequences.

I've tried PBblaster, heat, 3' breaker bar, impact wrench.............so I'm going to have Toyota remove those bolts. I'll buy a pair of new bolts and install my extra pair of D-rings.

I expect some resistance 3 year post frame, but......t'aint nuttin' movin'. Part of the problem is getting that damn T55 to remain engaged and not round out the head.

 

I don't know when my frame was replaced. It can't be too old, since the tags are still on the frame.
My Torx head is still intact, so I still can play back and fort. I just hate to break the bolts and end up drilling them

 

Couldn't agree with this more. We need to post or start a sticky "PSA Of the Day" and this would be one of them. I removed mine last year and they were in surprisingly good condition. I coated them will with Red-N-Tacky grease and reinstalled them. The other would be to replace your skid plate bolts with grade 5 or better and put a little grease on them before installing. Just pull a little dab off that leaking ball joint boot....
Just kidding, my ball joints aren't leaking.

 

i resorted to a 3' iron pipe as a breaker bar, and mine was only 2 years old when i did it. figured i was going to break them or i was going to get them out. Ended up getting all 4 out without breaking them.

 

Hmmmm......maybe you have given me a Brute Force method to remove those.

Use a grinder to cut off the head. Go under the truck. Use a double nut technique to "lock" a hex onto the bolt. Turn the bolt to tighten it. Without the head, it should turn thru the frame nut. Be easy to soak the bolt with PBblaster and only need to deal with the rust between threads inside the nut. No need to drag the entire rusted bolt through the threads.

Gonna have to think about this more.........

 

Good idea. If I ever get the bolts off will cover them with anti seize and grease for sure.
Skid plate, rear bumper and hitch are next projects and I am sure same advise applies to all of them.

 

Tighten the bolt first. That'll break the rust at the end of the threads. If you can, wire brush the threads as well.

 

So I just did this with 3 of 4 bed bolts I snapped my bit on the last one but what was working was kroil and a wire brush.. the last one is gonna make me work for it i can get it to turn 1.5 turns and it dead stops.. im going to freeze it and get a thread chaser and see if i can clean up the threads some and give it a go again.. stupid salt... i dont know whats worse that or the sand eats up my windshield but hey good news is we have a lake every mile!