UTAH (and Surrounding Areas) BS Thread

Is there anyone in the utah County area that is tuning with ov tune? I have 19,000 miles on a 2017 pro with a 1.5" lift and level kit on stock tires and the stock pro exhaust currently, but will be going to a 285/75R16 and want a strömung exhaust soon ish.

 

I got harassed pretty good parking at a gravel pit with 5 other trucks in October. I guess someone had a bad day and didn’t like my plates.

If you change your mind just let me know! I’ve never been down that way, but I think I’ve studied the map enough to figure out where elk will winter.

LE. I’ve got 1 general point, though. Also 5 elk LE but I don’t think that buys you much. Not picky about weapon but probably a rifle tag. Typically I’m hunting archery deer in Oregon (late Nov) and archery elk in Colorado (Sept) so it might be wise to pick something in a different season.

 

Good luck man, ever since the pandemic the hills are completely swarming with people. It’s nuts up there.

 

It sure is. Back in October I hunted the cache mountains. Hiked 7 miles back just to find 30 orange hats. Thought I had gone far enough... greatly underestimated the number of bored people with horses.

 

It’s quite in here.

 

That dirt snow on Friday though ... Car washes were raking in the dough all weekend

 

lol. meanwhile, i've seen more posts here in the past few days than i have seen in the past week. lolol

 

Everyone’s too busy watching this MVP outplay the entire KC offense

 

One of the many perks of owning a white truck.

 

Looking for a TW express from Utah to Fort Collins co, Clearfield Utah to be exact

 

Was gonna say something like “That and blending in at the Target parking lot”
but you know I’m on pavement way more than you

 

No matter how hard I looked, I couldn't find a Target out there anywhere!

 

Have a parts list and price into the build? Want to do this although my little smittybilt comp does a good job. Thanks[/QUOTE]

I got rid of my power tank last year. I bought the Dual ARB compressor from a utor member for $400 (new). When I lived in SoCal, the C02 was easy to fill at any keg shop for $15 (I had a 15lb tank). Here in Salt Lake, I was having issues getting it filled. Not many places wanted to do the 'wait and fill'. Universal Cylinder was Ok, to get filled on Wed or Thursdays. And I found another welding shop by them that would fill it, but the people there don't understand math. They completely over charged me ($35) for the last time I filled it. They didn't know how much to charge for a # of C02.

That dual ARB compressor has nearly the same output as the power tank.

 

Feeling any better?

 

Anyone replace the rear pinion seal? I have a new seal and pinion nut, but there seems to be much debate about the pinion nut torque. Some mention that as long as you put the nut back to where it was.. your diff will be fine (measure the distance of the nut from the flange). Others mention that you should get a new crush sleeve and shims and have the differential reset by a gear shop.

Any thoughts?

 

Yeah, slowly but surely. Thanks for asking.

Still battling the infected incision. Received a second round of antibiotics to take for ten days because the first five day dose didn’t work. I have a lot of penicillin derivatives pumping through my bloodstream. It can’t be good.

 

Hi fellow Utahns! Anybody trying to sell a DCSB Diamondback HD tonneau cover? I'm near Logan but wouldn't mind driving wherever to pick one up. Just thought I'd ask!

Alternatively, is there a 2021 group buy for them that I've somehow missed or maybe any local shops in the state (or Idaho) with good pricing for? Thanks!

 

Hope you get feeling better man, the antibiotics should help out a lot

 

I'm far from a gearing/diff pro but I'v e always understood it to be that once you take off that nut, you need to replace the crush sleeve/washer. I can't imagine a shop would charge much to do that if you weren't comfortable doing it yourself.

 

I think I might do it myself when I get back from my next work trip. Ill be gone for about 8 weeks so ill think about this decision.

I think a shop might charge $500-$1000 to do this (correctly). To do it right, the third member would have to be removed from the axle and put on a bench. I think the gearing backlash would have to be reset if a new crush sleeve was put in. Too bad I am already re-geared. This would be a perfect time to do this.

If I were to do this myself I think I would do the following:
- Get a torque wrench that reads in-lbs and has a dial/ gauge.
- Jack the truck up so the rear axle is off the ground.
- Remove the rear tires.
- Disconnect the drive shaft (marking orientation on the diff).
- Use the torque wrench to figure out how much torque it takes to turn the gears. I think this will be more than the 5-9 inch-lbs that is specified in the Factory manual. Remember the rear axles and drums will be connected. The FSM value assumes the third member is on a work bench.
- This torque is moving torque, not starting torque. Once I know this value, I can proceed to remove the pinion nut, and replace the seal.
- ***Before removing the nut I should count how many turns it takes to remove the nut.
- After the seal has been replaced, tighten the nut remembering how many turns it took to remove it.
- Get the torque wrench out again and check to see if the torque to turn is the same as when I started. From my Hayes manual, they mention that 5 in-lbs over your starting value is acceptable with a new seal.
- Stake the nut and re-attach the driveshaft.