v6 4x4 clutch replacement, how difficult?

I'm at 191k miles on my 1999 v6 4x4 and on the original clutch, so I'm planning ahead on replacement. Is it a difficult job? Also is it worth replacing the rear engine crank seal while the transmission is out?

 

It was a big job for me. I'm a weekend mechanic at best. For reference, I find alternators easy, I do brakes, I did my timing belt. I think I'd probably draw the line at a head gasket, but maybe not.

I did it when I could afford to have my truck down for a few days. As I recall I took the transmission out on Christmas Eve. I think I worked a couple of hours on Christmas afternoon (the kids were done opening presents, we weren't ready for dinner yet, and I was bored), and put it all back together the day after. The hardest part was getting the transmission back in. It's a heavy beast and getting it lined up just right was fidgety.

My plan was work slow and methodically. Pay attention. Walk away if I get frustrated.

It worked.

Oh, and I did replace the rear main while I was in there.

 

As I grow older my frustration level becomes lower, and it seems I spend more time walking away than I do working

 

How does one answer that question??

Pretty straight forward job take the old clutch out compare old parts to new go get the correct parts after the first were wrong

One person can do it if you really need to

2 is better 3 is the best but if your helpers have never done this before who can say

 

Thanks guys. How easy was the rear crank seal to replace? Do you have to drop the oil pan to get it out?

Also did you have trouble accessing any of the bolts to remove the transmission, and did the exhaust have to come out? Last time I changed a clutch, like 20 years ago, the biggest frustration was gaining access to the bolts on top of the transmission.

 

They're a pain, you're going to want some long extensions and maybe an elbow joint

 

Same here, Not a 1st gen but I did the clutch on my 91 4Runner 4x4 with hand tools a Kawi impact wrench and 3 jacks, I was able to get it out by myself but needed a friend to assist putting it back in.
If I had to do it all over again I would take it to a shop, unless I had a lift, power tools and a trans jack otherwise F-that noise.
To get to the top trans bolts I had to combine all of my extensions, about 2.5 ft roughly.

 

My tricks are to use two floor jacks aligned front to back

I don`t do enough clutches to build a transmission saddle for a floor jack

My trick for the bell housing bolts is to lower the transmission and transfer case as low as possible without breaking anything on the back of the engine .Makes them easy to get for me.

I also remove the sway bar some don`t I do

Just be aware once the transmission comes out of the clutch it will want to spin toward the front driveshaft side

 

20" of 1/2" extension and a flex socket. Not a u-joint, but the ball type. Works every time.

 

I use wobble extensions....take the top out 1st...jack trans. back up a bit, secure eng. on something so it's not moving around.
Trans. heavier than it looks, 2 ppl. better.

 

There's a write up here somewhere. I bought a shitty conversion kit for a floor jack to make it a transmission jack, then cut off the parts of it that were in the way. I also bought a mile and half of 1/2" extension. Getting to the top bolts was challenging. I also have a a 1/2" impact universal that I don't remember buying, so I may have used that.

Seems like putting them back in took two of us. One guy ran the ratchet from a mile and half away while the other wrapped his arms around the transmission and held the socket in place. I think the starter bolt was done by braille.

I did not drop the oil pan or remove the exhaust. Again, hunt for the write up.

I think, if I remember correctly, I did the rear main on my work bench.

 

^^^^, just look at trans. w/o transfer case and get that much extensions. An impact is very nice. Entire work towards engine is by feel but there's not too much, exhaust ok. crossmember out.......pretty straight forward work, mostly muscle. MAKE SURE YOU GET FLYWHEEL RESURFACED!!!!!
It WILL chatter if you don't but I've rarely seen ANY vehicle that didn't if it had a burn ring and @ this many miles, it does.

You can do it....save the money unless you know a 'lil shop that does a lot of these and has the price down....I remember seeing one of those once....they could do a clutch in about an hour, I think it was 200 bux, you supply parts. But that was prob. 20 years ago.

 

Its not too bad. you need like 3ft of extensions and some wobble joints. I also recomend buying an actual trans jack, worth evrey penny, makes the job soooo much easier and i use it for all kinds of other projects, usefull as hell. i did mine solo in a weekend and im not exactly a beast of a mechanic.

 

Whatever you do, don't take it to Toyota. I was in a pinch and needed my clutch done asap, you don't want to know what they charged me for it. Actually I prefer to not even think about it, now I need a drink

 

Reading back, you say you've done it before. Get a buddy that has also and you're set. It's one of the rare things about working on a vehicle that hasn't changed much at all. Starter a pain and lifting up and down tiresome, everything else...cake.

As an older guy I wouldn't attempt w/o an impact though. Mine's coming up also. I'm going to find out who is a true friend.

 

I'm in the same boat with my 06 4.0 at 245k.

 

You have 245k on the original clutch?? That's impressive.

 

Yep, and she's just starting to get a 10th of a second slip only in heavy 1st gear starts, otherwise she runs like a top.

 

although I may need to replace my 3rd gear sychro set with the clutch, its getting rather touchy.

 

I'm on my 2nd stock clutch with under 40k miles on my truck lol. The supercharger ruined the throwout bearing on the first one, and now the second one is starting to get the dread TOB chirp with less than 5k on it. I need to upgrade to a heavier clutch.