V6 Low End Power Opinions

Just put the V-8 tundra engine in the damn thing or a 350 =D. These trucks aren't really made to pull too much weight, granted I have pulled another truck on a flatbed with mine but if your using a truck for towing a lot of weight and excessive tools in the truck a tacoma isn't really the best option if you want a lot of low end tourqe. Anyhow for more low end tourqe you could always get a set of cams for more low end engine curve and also retard the timing a hair. But regardless your going to lose mpg :/

 

Interesting... I think the URD MAF Calibrator might be more effective than I originally thought.

 

The only thing I wish I would have done also, was change one of the other variables to show % Load. I didn't think about that until afterwards though.

 

I have an Ultragauge, I haven't messed with the settings much though. I wonder if I can make it show the open/closed loop.

 

Thanks, Whipper! I was wondering what that was for. I guess I should probably read the manual I printed off...

 

Keep us updated please.

For most of us, a low end increase is kind of the holy grail. Unfortunately, it's the most elusive, while staying on any kind of a budget. I have been keeping up on the manifold spacer also, along with the open/closed loop discussion for MAF cali usage. I haven't committed any $$$ either, for the reasons you've stated. It's also still not clear to me that short tube headers adds to low end either, I haven't seen any trustworthy documented results at rpms that mean something to me (dynos that start at 3k+ are not useful to me for the power that I want).

 

I'll post back once I get some results. I think I'm going to give the URD calibrator a shot and see what happens. Unfortunately, my results will be mostly butt dyno, watching shift points, slow acceleration times (ease of acceleration withouth downshifting) and fuel economy. I still haven't thrown out the idea of a snorkel either, they're supposed to be a good intake but I think getting one for that reason might be a little overkill

 

Little bit of an update: Thanks to Whippersnapper, I now know how to tell if my truck is running in open or closed loop. I watched my Ultragauge yesterday going home and coming in this morning and I only made it to open loop when coasting with my foot off the gas or when I really got on it at highway speed. Even off the line, when revving up past 2,500 RPM in the first 2 gears, the truck stayed in closed loop. That being said, I don't think the URD MAF Calibrator will do much for me. As I understand it, the MAF Calibrator is only effective when the truck is in open loop.

 

Confirmation on what Pugga just posted, I watched open/closed loop on mine for the last day and only went into open loop as Pugga described.

Yes, the MAF cali basically offers up updated fuel maps to the ECU, which are only read in open loop. In closed loop the ECU primarily uses the O2 sensors.

 

From watching the manifold spacer thread, again, another contender came into the mix - Pulleys. Altogether, you can replace the pulleys for a few hundred bucks a strip the weight by about 60%. It's a decent amount of rotational mass that's no longer being turned by the engine. I think I'm going to snoope around the XR forums and see what I can find out about them and the URD competition Y-pipe.

 

Don't forget about the two options for light weight flywheels. Those will also free up some low end TQ and HP, the same as the pulleys.

 

Yeah, I'm beginning to see why people take voluntary bans... it's to save their wallets

 

I saw those also... I'd like to avoid that kind of install for now though. That's a little more involved than I'm willing to go at this point.

 

To bad you don't live in Houston.

 

Well no, I'm capable of doing the install myself, but the truck is a daily driver so while I'm trying free up some power, I prefer to do things that are generally bolt on and easily removed. When the Taco is no longer my primary mode of transportation, I'll build the crap out of it!

 

Alright Tor, lets talk lightweight pulleys. I did some reading (mostly on other forums ) about the results produced from going with lightweight pulleys. Have you, or anyone else for that matter, heard of any ill side effects from going with the lightweight pulley (mostly due to engine vibration no longer cancelled by the heavier pulley)?

 

First off, there will always be some discrepancy with everything.

Now, you can only compare this motor specifically to other motors which are made like it. Internally balanced.

Our crank is fully counter-weighted. Not semi, like some American motors. Thus the reasons why our motors have no harmonic balancer pulley.

Otherwise, two things would happen. 1 if anyone installed a different flywheel (lighter or heavier which also has a much larger circumference and inertial mass than a say crank pulley), you would have to adjust the harmonic balancer. 2: if you installed a crank pulley, and your motor originally had a harmonic balancer, then your motor would be off balance again. Detrimental things happen when adjustments are made to motors like that, when they are externally balanced.

Our again, is internally balanced. Within a percent of acceptable tolerance, from the factory.

Our crank pulley ,OEM, is two piece. Held together with a rubber isolation ring. Used only to dampen the vibrations of the belt from the accessories. Swapping to a lightweight crank pulley, only changes two things. Removing the isolation rubber ring, and makes the pulley lighter. Trust in the fact that a light weight flywheel does the same, minus the rubber ring, but the rear side of the crank sees far more vibration from the drive-train, than the front does from the accessory belt.

 

Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for! My searching led me into forums with much different engines (I'll leave it at high HP, boosted and in-line 4 cylinder forums ) and those guys had a ton of issues when they changed the crank pulley. Good info, thanks again!

 

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