v6 manual 13-14 mpg

Placebo effect. Unless your motor is knocking or pinging, you will not see any improvements running higher octane fuel. The 2.7 does not adjust its timing to run on different octane levels like the 4.0 does. You may actually see a decrease in performance and fuel economy because the fuel is more difficult to ignite.

 

Andrew, My 1972 Ford Pinto did not adjust it's timing either. I have verified the increased mileage with every vehicle I have owned. As I said, only the Chevy 350 did not respond to increased octane. A side benefit to the higher grade fuel is that it usually contains a few additives to help keep the fuel system cleaner as well.

 

If I drive my 6 speed in a "spirited manner" shall we say, I get 14-16 too, and it's well in tune. Try towing... you'll be down around 11-12 (at any decent speed), which really sucks.

If you get yourself a scangauge, it will help you realize where you're losing mileage. I have a 30 mile commute to work with mixed highway and 2-lane country roads. I tried really, really hard one morning and actually managed 21.0 mpg on the scangauge... but it was hard to do. Generally, in normal running, 17 is about it for me.

 

The only time my truck ever idles above ~750 RPM, is when the motor is cold. Once it's warmed up, the engine idles at 750 RPM in neutral whether I'm moving or not.

 

MAS gone bad??

I had a 2006 2.7 2wd and got 15-16 MPG all the time from chronic lead foot problems.

Now with my 2012 4.0 4wd first tank was 19.2. Moor power = less lead foot?

Also I do not think new motors benefit from higher octane fuel. I just run the 85. Works just fine and is cheaper.

 

I think something else was going on there. I would have to really try to get less than 20 MPG.

 

I just got 18.5 mpg on last tank. Hope it gets a little better , but I don't expect to get much better than that.

 

Where do you find its the best place for the RPMs to be in given gears? I feel like I lose a lot of mpg due to improper shifting and was wondering where you usually have them at

 

I just traded up from an auto to a 2012 manual and I'm sitting at 6-700rpms higher on the highway (75-80mph) than before. I averaged 14.8 MPG on the highway due to it. I LOVE having a manual but crap, who knew? Should just go back to my old v8. . .

 

I've started shifting at 2k rpms, and completely skipping 3rd and 5th gear. I've been getting 15-16 mpg hwy now, and thats with my heavier rims and bigger tires. I've got about 70k on the truck now.

 

When my manual 07 4.0 access cab was mostly stock it got 18.5 on the highway. That was with a Leer topper. Now it weighs about 700# more, has 4,56 gears, taller tires, and still gets 16-16,5 at 60 - 65mph. I tow a 2500# trailer and average about 13.

 

i have a 2005 6 speed all stock too and my lat tank today was 16.7 because of winter gas and usually in summer that goes up to 18.5ish. I think and have heard that there might be break in period. i would just keep babying it and put 91 in the tank which is what I run all the time. I put 87 in it once and that tank went all the way down to 14ish which is teriable then put 91 back in and was fine again. For me the 91 gas has made the difference and not flooring it anymore. My ultragauge helps me monitor and has improved my driving habits by 1.5 to 2 mpg. Hope your mileage gets better soon. oh yeah mine has 78k and bought it at 63k miles.

 

I heard about this in a thread a long while back..basically for the break in period of the motor your truck will run richer than it should so it uses more gas

 

I usually get around 15-16 mpg with my set up. The most miles I have gotten out of a tank was around 305...but I have a shell, ARB and 285's.

 

Guessing you have the 4 cyl. Best way to know is with a scangauge or ultragauge. Best guess? Shift at 2k, load 80% to accelerate, and when not accelerating aim for 1200 rpm or highest gear.

With the V6 I shift at 1800 rpm or so, 80% load to accelerate, and when not accelerating aim for 1000 rpm or highest gear, unless load exceeds 60% then I downshift to prevent fuel from stalling out of the mix.

Indeed, this 6 speed is best geared for a four cylinder. Toyota should have had this tranny on the towing pkg V6 and another one with a 1:1 4th, .75:1 5th, and 0.55:1 6th for everyone else. We'd be getting 28 mpg all day long, but nooooooo they couldn't do that. Gas was under $2 a gallon when they spec'd it.

It'll stay over 20 mpg in the summer if you keep the foot out of it and under about 63 mph. Anything over 70 and it's getting 18-19 when the wind is in your favor and you're going down ... a mountain. I keep my tank averages up by staying OFF the highway (with the exception of rare times I have arrival deadlines to meet) and cruising in the 50-55 mph range.

 

I shift all my vehicles at the bottom of the torque curve. For the 4.0 that's around 2400. That's the biggest bang for the buck with respect to rpm vs torque. Manual tranny of course.

 

I looked at your fuelly numbers and they do seem rather high. You do 50/50 so it's hard to say. I seen the fill that you got around 350 km's on a tank, that's low. On average I get around 440-450(95% city driving). I am trying to drive like there is an egg under my foot, it's hard though. I am getting roughly 1.2L less per 100 km's. My truck is stock. With some of your aftermarket that could play into your mileage too possibly. But I am thinking it could be your driving style.

When I accelerate normally from 0-60 km/h my rpms are between 0-2000. Once it's hits around 60 the rpms drop to 1800. When I am doing 100 km/h at constant speed I am around 2100 rpm.

 

Ever done 80% load with 2400 rpm shifts? It's not bad mileage wise but...

You'll see a lot of people gunning it off the line because they will think you are trying to drag race. It's seriously hauling tail for typical traffic.

When most people shift that high on the V6, they're accelerating in the 60-65% range, which in mileage terms is the second worst place to be next to all out balls to the wall.

Bottom line, you only need 40 to 50 horsepower to accelerate normally. If you keep the load up to where the engine is efficient and shift at 2400 you're looking at 100+ horses easy. Remember this engine exceeds the 4 cylinder's peak power levels at just over 3000 rpm at WOT.

Besides, in an engine, friction goes up roughly at the square of speed. That means going from 1700 to 2400 doubles your friction to overcome, and friction is the name of the game in mileage.

 

Internet mileage is always higher!

 

I have a bone stock 2011 trd off road 4.0 manual. i have a six mile drive to work with two stop signs along the way, i shift at 2kish and gordon lightfoot it everywhere and i average about 15.7. The vehicle is maticulously maintained. ive just come to terms with the 14-18 being factual. i didn't want to believe it when i bought it because i never really hot rod around. but you just got to accept it for what it is.