Vagabond Drifter Camper Buildout and Mods

I also am going w/ a 28" slide, but from Accuride, who's products I have used before on some furniture. Their pn system can be a bit of challenge to navigate on their website, but they sell a kit which includes a locking slide & a mate (non-locking), PN for the kit is C9308-E528D (for the 28") version and they have numerous lengths available for these kits. When you look at the price listed on Accuride's website its crazy (Like $220 or something), but I bought the kit through Bisco for $123, so similar to what @joeydurango paid for his.

 

this is a pretty good option, seen a lot of guys go that route for full length bed drawers and stack up a couple bearings per stud

 

that’s exactly what we did, our one drawer runs almost the length of the bed and I did skateboard bearings a on a nut/bolt assembly with aluminum rails. I based it on the design that the couple from Bound for Nowhere used on their Tacoma build a couple years ago. It’s really really sturdy after like eight months of use and pretty serious rough driving off-road.


This is the only pic/video I have of it. at this point I hadn’t made the drawer yet so you can see the assembly:

https://www.instagram.com/tv/B4MIwWCnTpf/?igshid=m6cp2rwkibu4

and here’s the build from Bound for Nowhere
https://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog2/2018/how-to-buildout-a-truck-bed-camper-for-under-

 

Love the lights, thanks VO!

 

I ordered my drifter without side doors or windows with the plan of installing traction boards and rotopax to the sides. I think a few people might have done this already. I would appreciate any photos and words of wisdom.
Cheers!

 

I am glad I don’t have windows. Birthday suit all the time.

I installed L track on the sides to mount stuff. You can have them install it, or do ir yourself!

 

Did you add anything to the backside to add support or just nuts and washers?

Thank you for not having windows

 

Yes I added 1/8 or 1/4 alum flat bar. @tyfoon11 told me you can also use large fender washers.

 

What are these corner cube connectors for the 8020 called? Ive been looking though the fasteners and cant find these, only the bracket style connectors

 

"3 Way - Squared Corner Connector"

 

I have no windows and the insulated walls. Mounted L track top and bottom on both sides and yes aluminum bar for backing. I had the insulation loose attached back when we picked up the camper so that I could remove it and mount the track without sandwiching the dilation and panel.

 

I think these are what you are looking for - https://8020.net/4442.html

 

yep thanks!

 

Just in case you want a slightly different take - I have the solid FrontRunner doors and I made Rotopax mounts for them. (See photos.) The 2-gallon Rotopax cans fit really well, and the FrontRunner gas struts can actually hold a full Rotopax up! I just remove the outer part of the Rotopax mount when not in use, and plug the exposed threads with a small bolt to keep dirt outta there. I really, really like having the FR doors... I use them all the time. Not having to crawl into the camper to get anything I might want is a definite bonus. But I suppose I can see reasons for solid walls, all personal preference of course!

 

Not sure if this has been asked, but curious why most people go with L-tracks and Frontrunner bars vs say some Yakima tracks and extrusion bars?

Is it because that’s what Vagabond offers? Or am I missing something here? Currently have a Prinsu on my shell, hence the curiosity.

 

The L-Track + Frontrunner bars/feet have a much lower profile than a Yakima/Thule system.

 

Oh yea totally, I’m more referring to like a Yakima track with say a prinsu foot with an extrusion bar. I’ve never seen a front runner set up, by my prinsu rack sits pretty low.

main purpose for the comparisons is maybe some people would prefer the t-slot style bar with two carriage bolts compared to the single bolt slot on the Front runner. But again, I’ve never seen the two side by side and only have experience with a prinsu style rack.

 

Ah, I didn't follow you the first time... I'll have to look at the technical documents for Yakima/Thule …


YAKIMA TRACKS ~$150 / pair
54" & 60" w/CapNuts
Dimensions: 1 5/8” wide (0.625") x ½” tall. Screws are #10-32x1”. Capnuts are 1/2x1-1/4”.
Holes in tracks are 6" apart, center to center.

42" or 54" w/PlusNuts
Holes in tracks are 6" apart, center to center.
PlusNut tool is 1/4"-#10 Hex Stud
PlusNuts are 10-32 flat head

L-TRACK (From USCargo) ~$150 / pair
12" or 96" long
Height: .53"
Width: 1-3/4" (0.75")


SUMMARY:
L-Track is a tiny bit taller (0.03") and wider (+0.125").
Price is similar for JUST THE TRACKS.


Cue Phil or Iggy or … to lay down some more info.

 

Do you think two of these U-Nuts with a strap connecting them would be strong enough to keep a 6lb propane tank in place (to the rail) on rough roads? Trying to figure out how to attach a tank without getting a swing-out. Doubt this would be sturdy enough though

 

I think that if you used a large QuickFist and mounted it to the rail with two U-nuts, fender washers, and 1-1/4" bolts, it could hold the tank in place if you really cinched it into the QuickFist... *IF* you were able to rest the tank's weight on the bed, or on a purpose-built riser of some sort.

I have my 11-lb tank mounted to my cabinets using a QuickFist and it's plenty stable on rough roads/trails, but the weight is on the floor, and the QF is really cinched down hard.