Vagabond Drifter Camper Buildout and Mods

What are you planning to seal the holes with? I used black rtv, held up through one NW winter so far, but I think I need to reseal once we get some dry weather. The wavy V1 roof made it hard to get a tight seal. The new V2 design with that smooth one piece roof looks sweet.

 

Mike, are you in IG?

I used black rtv as well. I’ve used it in the Prinsu rack holes and it’s held up with only one reapply over about two years.
I’m doing a round “washer” of the rtv on the underside of the track itself, around the holes. Then in the hole as the bolt enters. That should seal it well. It will be fairly easy for me to see if it’s not working as the holes are actually on the outside of the canvas. I’ll get a pic for you shortly.

 

woo sub'd! Cant wait to add to this thread in the future. Planning on keeping the same build out as i have in the flippac currently with a few updates.

Did you guys through bolt the L TRAC all the way through the roof and sandwich the insulation?

-E

 

Erik, the track gets bolted between the edge of the roof and the awning track/ outside of the tent. So the penetrations are not over the living space. Still a good measure to seal them though. I’ll take some pics when I put them on. Mine soon.

 

Here's a nice resource for planning: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/detailed-bed-dimensions.400407/

 

I’ve been using the Weboost Cell Signal Booster for a few months now on trips all over the place with varying service capabilities. I finally decided on this spot to mount the antenna. This post is more for mounting location...the antenna works well even with the wall of camper in front of it!

 

I don’t have much done, but here is what I have so far:


All material is 1/2" birch plywood. The base platform has roll on bedliner. (2) pull out drawers (on top of each other) will be on the driverside. Fridge slide on the passenger side with a tall cabinet behind it. Along the back wall will be the toilet and water tank.

Exterior has a couple of mods (4’ awning at the rear, L-Track on the passenger side holding the maxtrax, and (2) 100W solar panels up top)




Hopefully will have more to come soon

 

Looking good @MJonaGS32 !!!

I’m currently contemplating adding L-track to the windoors on one side for my treds and to hang misc gear. Since the doors are separated, I’ll need a level of commitment I’m still working up to. Haha

 

Anyone look into using the PVC panels from 8020 for the siding on a drawer system? Seems like they would be light, easy to work with and strong enough. https://8020.net/shop/65-2615.html

 

The decked system is also tall AF. I would hate to have to get in and out of my camper with that in the way.
Really cuts down on the entry space

 

Yea way too tall. And unfortunately anything thats shorter can’t hold much inside. Which is why I’m building around the perimeter and leaving the middle open

 

it really depends on what you're doing with them. PVC is going to bow if you sit on it and put a lot of stress on the fasteners. Plywood is more rigid and makes a bit more sense here. But PVC could work for sides or faces.

 

Great feedback. Thanks. The idea now would be plywood on top so the benches can be used as seats (will be covered with cushions) and maybe PVC on the sides for aesthetics.

Exactly!!!

 

@danneskjold Would you mind linking the details for your materials? I’m interested in the corner connectors for these. Considering dropping coin and going this route vs temporary birch build.
Thanks in advance!

 

I use angle brackets, not the cheapest solution but not $18/per for the ones Goose Gear uses.

You probably need two per corner which still ends up being cheaper than the GG solution, albeit more ugly. You also don’t need to thread the end pieces.

I get all my shit from Grainger as there didn’t seem to be a huge price difference vs online and I can get it that day or the next.

https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/80-20-Inside-Corner-Bracket-2RCW7

 

If you have access to tools you could buy a 90 degree sheet of steel from Home Depot and cut it and then drill it for way cheaper.

 

After seeing it up close in that link, that was my thought! Chop saw for days buuuut feasible for sure.

 

I actually bought an $80 miter saw from Harbor Freight yesterday to cut the extrusion haha. Will probably just leave it here as I’m not sure I have room for it.

 

For sure, I bought it because it was cheaper to buy that and DIY and then throw it out than taking it to a machine shop.