Valve Adjustment-Top Dead Center question

Hey all, Doing a valve adjustment on a 2004 tacoma 2.7 170k.

Looking to confirm I have TDC. I have my dots lined up on the cam shaft gears (one dot on the intake and 2 on the exhaust). However, the notch on my crankshaft pulley are nowhere close to the "0" mark. Also, there are marks on the inside and outside of the pulley. Why aren't these lining up?

When I have to rotate the engine to measure the lash on the 2 and 3 cylinder, I will have to rotate the engine. How will I know what my mark is?

Thanks all! First time crackin open an engine here!

 

It's possible the key for the pulley broke and the pulley rotated on the crankshaft. The outer part of the pulley is separated from the inner part by rubber, and sometimes this fails which could account for the pulley being off. I'd think that you'd notice a wobble if this were the case though.

You could remove a spark plug and put a dowl or long screwdriver down to judge when the piston is at the top and see if the pulley notch is off.

I don't know why the marks on the inside and outside are not lined up. Maybe some pictures would help us.

 

On my motorcycle, which is also a shim and bucket, if you've got the cam gears lined up but the crank isn't, you're 180 degrees away from TDC. Keep turning it.

Are the cam lobes touching the tops of the shims? They shouldn't be if its at TDC.

 

I think I will just make a mark on the pully with a sharpie and go off the marks on the camshaft gears. Then I will just rotate the pulley 360 degrees to check the other valves.

Can anyone confirm the lash/clearances on this motor? I've heard two different opinions. 2004 2.7 3rz

 

It should give the specs for your engine/year on the sticker under the hood.

 

Thanks! Any idea on the cam shaft cap bolt torque?

 

for valve adjustment purposes only... as long as the lobe on the camshaft is pointing away from the shim/bucket you can check the clearance.

 

How are you doing this procedure without a repair manual or some sort of reference?

Did you put the service bolt in the exhaust camshaft timing gear before removing it?

 

I have a lot of references, just need the cam cap bolt torque specs. A lot of great info on the web/youtube. Almost done here, just struggling to pop out some of these shims. Using this for starters: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0zzsBhs3iA&t=1230s

 

And yeah, exhaust shaft came out EZ

 

For the 1996 4 cylinder the repair manual says

Camshaft timing gear x Intake camshaft, 54 ft-lbs.

I'm not sure if the spec changed for 2004.

 

I think that might be for holding the gear onto the shaft? Seems high for caps.

 

12 ftlb

 

you fuggin rock! Thanks

 

Oh, yeah. I wasn't sure what he was referring to. They're usually call "bearing caps". He said "cam cap bolt" so I was thinking something with a single bolt.

And those bearing caps need to be tightened uniformly to keep the camshafts level without damaging them. Follow the procedure in the repair manual.

 

Having trouble "seating"the cam shaft now. I can line it up and almost get it in there, but it wont sink into place. Any ideas?

 

There are 2 camshafts. Which one won't seat? There will always be some cams facing down and contacting the valves. The repair manual says to install intake camshaft with knock pin facing up. You need to tighten bearing caps evenly in such a way to keep the camshaft level or you could damage the head.

 

I am having the same concern; what was your end result? See photos where my crank is roughly at 330 degrees about 30 degrees off

 

What are we supposed to be seeing in the second picture?