Valve cover gasket replacement 3.4 V6 tips

They are tricky to tell but my experience is that they seal at first and then leak soon when backwards.

If they go on easy they're upside down.

should have to use a pick to get them around the tube.

 

So in the pic in my previous post, should that side be facing outwards or inwards? I didn't have to use a pick, but i had trouble lining it up to get them to slide around the tube. The seal has a slight taper. Should the flared (wider) end be towards the valve cover or the camshaft?

 

I can't see the picture clear enough to tell.
I think the wider side goes up otherwise the oil would be able to be forced out of the seal.

Like said before, they're tricky to tell by looking which side is which. You kind of need a reference pic.

I do just know it's harder to put them on right than wrong.

 

Were the cam seals neccesary or just something you wanted to do while you had the covers off? I want to replace my valve cover gaskets but I don't want or need any extra wirk or parts just to do them. Thanks.

 

You SHOULD include to replace the cam seals, half moons and spark plug gaskets, ALL

 

The 'dummy' cam seals or full moons should be at least resealed.

The true cam seal would be changed during a timing belt change.

It's true they're both referenced the same but it's the one to the rear you're concerned with at this point.

 

do them unless you want another leak. They leak just as bad as vcg- Its generally them leaking backside that will drip down on your exhaust and p/s rack boot. May as well do it right

 

Eh if you’re removing your camshafts in order to replace the seals (not the plugs) that brings another level of the job - if they’re leaking replace them but if they’re not idk if they’ll present a problem by the time you sell or junk it. I’ve had three of these and haven’t seen any of them leak out the cam seals.

 

I reused the half moons but used Permatex Ultra Black rtv sealant on them, the corners and a light coating around the rear cam caps. The valve cover bolts just over finger tight. That seems to be a common issue wuth the 3.4's. I didn't use any blue loctite but my friend said he torqued the valve cover bolts to 60 and then said 58. I know they're supposed to be 53 in. lbs. Will this over tightening screw me over or is a little extra inch pounds not a big deal?

 

You can just do those to feel really - they seem to get loose as the rubber shrinks most likely as a result of wear and tear, heat cycles, etc. and you can snug them down as you go. The torque specs are in a range of allowable tolerance as is the case with all mechanical systems, but as long as you are near it and not way over or way under in this case they should get the job done either way.

 

Thanks! So 58 or 60 in lb isn't too serious?

 

I don’t think I’d be able to tell the difference really and independent and dealer mechanics don’t torque them down to spec.

 

you're fine.

 

A dremel with the cable wand makes short work of cleaning all the old gasket material off the half moons and valve covers.

Also now is a good time if you decide to get your valve covers powder coated.

 

On a diff topic, which oil do you use to get 600k+ miles? I assume you've used different over the years but which do you use as your main oil?

 

It’s always been done by the dealership,
Dino oil, not synthetic every 5k

 

Oh, wow. I was expecting amsoil or redline. I've wondered who supplies Toyota. Must be shell, bp, ashland, or another blender. I switched from mobil 1 5w 30 high mileage to pennzoil platinum high mileage 5w 30. It's made from natural gas instead of crude. I'll see how she goes. Thanks!

 

I run redline in the transmission and amsoil in the diffs.

 

Mine has never been neglected (over 5K) and even at 120Kish was darker brown inside than that one. Can't say I've EVER seen one THAT clean inside after 150K or so.
I wonder if it's the ambient heat here, cooking oil more? I knew my original owner, he used the dealership 'til I got it with 80K or so.

 

I've been looking all over and I have also watched Timmy the tool man's video but I'm looking for a photo or diagram showing the proper tightening sequence or pattern for the valve cover bolts. I also know it should be done in 3-4 passes, with the target being 53 inch pounds. I'm probably over thinking it but I like being precise when possible.

It seems like the best approach is to start in the center with a cross tightening pattern for the inner 4 bolts, and then move to both outer two bolts without a need to cross from front to back on those? Timmy's video is in conflict with what I've seen elsewhere, that's my dilemma.