Valvoline said Tacoma will only take Full Synthetic Oil ???

I do, because science is not based on "I think" or "feelings." Facts, actually facts that a layman can understand, exist here on Tacomaworld that prove 10K oil change interval is acceptable. Look at any of the Blackstone Labs oil analysis reports here. That is fact. I truly don't care how you spend your money but don't clutter up threads with wrong information. 10K is not "too long," no matter what you think.

 

“Proper interval”. We got the expert in house to tell us with no scientific reasoning that the manual is wrong. Your “feelings” arent backed up by anything except your own delusions , yet you are so quick to tell everyone they are wrong

 

I throw it in my oil furnace

 

I agree and disagree, to a point. The M motors are very different than our 3.5 even though it is used in some motorsports applications. I do agree that Ms motors, AMGs, and Porsches are closer to the 916 motor in my parts bin ST4. If I'm not mistaken, most Ms from the last couple decades had oil life monitors though. We got away from luxury makes because of their weird (read: expensive) quirks. Friends that went down that rabbit hole have done the same.

Truth be told, the motor in my Duc was toasted at 84k due to a rod bearing failure. That said, 4k earlier, the same cylinder had a timing belt failure that bent the intake valves. I really feel that the bearing failure was due to the belt break and nothing else. I swapped in a used motor after finding that the crank pin was scored. Parts would have cost more than the used motor. That motor has at least 33k on it now and doing great.

So I know your feelings, but I also have confidence in the Taco motor and the intervals. I feel it is a good truck motor, but we all know it is used in cars and minivans also. Camry and Sienna owners aren't swapping oil sooner than they have to. That's a lot of street cred right there besides what has been posted for UOAs and other folks that have racked up miles on their 3rd Gens.

Have a good one.

 

I understand using as fuel is common with recycled oil. That's why it's important to never mix hydraulic (brake) fluid or anti-freeze in, that will contaminate the tank. Only motor or gear oil.

 

Buy the Mobil 1 at Wally World and you'll only be about $25-30 per oil change

 

I assume you have that proof? Proof that is not published of funded by a company that could profit by selling more oil and filters?
If you have that proof, please share it, because there are lots of oil analysis reports that say otherwise. Those analysis are real.

 

Autozone does free disposal, at least in CA. I think for most DIY guys we already have the tools, so its not really an investment on that end. EDIT: Plus, the only tool I needed for mine was the filter wrench, box wrench, and oil drain pan. Thats like $15 in total

 

I just get Mobil1 0W-20 at Walmart. $23 for a 5 quart.

 

Hydraulic is fine (think power steering fluid, not brake fluid, you're right) but why would anyone put antifreeze in their crank case?

 

Yeah you need what? One 14mm wrench? Lol if you drive a truck and don't have that

 

Lol I just edited my original for that: 14mm wrench, drain pan, and MAYBE a filter wrench if you can't muscle it. $15 in total for all 3, max

 

You can also take the filter off with channel locks, a pipe wrench or even ratchet straps. Don't need need a pan either. Small bucket works also.

 

He might draw you a picture with crayons and glitter. Thats the most proof he has ever provided on this topic.

 

Nowadays there isn't a real cost savings unless your searching for the great deals constantly. I haven't checked a full synthetic price but my old sedan cost 28 in conventional oil/filter and I could get it changed for 35 at the dealer. The additional convenience of me not having to deal with it was worth the 7 dollars. The caveat is finding someone you trust to not screw up, my good friend just happens to work at the dealership I was going to so I know it would be taken car of.

That being said with my new truck Ill pry do the oil changes. It might actually cost me more since Ill rent a garage to do it since I live in an apt and have no tools.

 

people usually change the first one before 5k or even less than that. I changed mine at 5k and will do it every 5-6k with the dealer doing it every 10.
the first 25k services are free at the dealer anyhow...

 

I haven't seen any long term oil analysis in any of the threads on here, probably because there aren't many 200k third gens around. What I have seen is you bashing people for changing their oil to much, or thinking that they should.

I read my Toyota manual as soon as I got the truck. Based on the conditions that you drive your truck in they recommend between 5,000 and 10,000 miles. Right in the middle would seem to be a good spot for me. <----NOT FACTUAL INFO.

Didn't realize how controversial this topic is here on TW. Maybe I will make my own thread regarding this topic just for hiPSI and Pine States enjoyment

 

People sometimes dump all their waste fluids into the catch pan before taking to the recycler. My county accepts waste oil and they had to stop letting you self serve and put the tank behind a locked gate only accessible by the staff because people would just dump anything liquid that came out of their car into it.

Anti-freeze/brake fluid/hydraulic fluid may be considered hazardous waste and I believe it's the additives in power steering fluid that foul burners.

 

I'm not sure there is a point to respond to someone who fails to even recognize the conditions he drives in.

Oil tests are not the only factor if the change interval is appropriate. Nor can an oil test predict a reliable measurement of risk over time. I've provide information before, but it is done by manufactures and automotive service groups so it doesn't fit in your category.

The general fact that the majority of people drive in harsh/severe service conditions is talked about frequently in the aftermarket. You can even take statics from many different groups on peoples driving habits and it's pretty clear the majority fall into that category

Food for thought: Just about everyone provided push back to the manufactures when they come out with "lifetime" fluids. Consumers argued that there really is no such thing. When the people who make the transmissions and sell the fluids agreed with the consumers, that advice was taken. Yet now on this subject, we have people not believing the people who manufacture the filters, sell the fluids, or the people who service vehicles. Its all some gigantic conspiracy.

 

Used oil analysis is the only way to measure this and it says what it says. I would add that you should use a rolling measure and not just a single test done once to decide intervals, though. Do a couple to see progression and then do them periodically to watch for changes. I've found over the years that an acceptable life on one test might not be there on the next, so I prefer to have margin so that I'm not trusting one test isn't an aberration.

I did a lot of tests on my old engine (a 22R-E that I put 300k on) since I had it for a long time and lots of miles. That was using Castrol GTX on 3,500 intervals. I found that it could go 5K when things were right, meaning I think enough highway miles, good gas, not much opportunity for the engine to run poorly (it tended to run rich and have more dust and sand when 4-wheeling, for example). Other tests indicated that my interval was using the whole life of the oil and should have been changed earlier.

I have settled on 5K using Mobil1 5W-30 with my 1GR because I've never seen a case yet where the oil was close to done, so I have margin just in case. I follow a severe duty guideline because my truck is really only used for hauling stuff and 4-wheeling now that I have a beater car for daily use.

Another reason I choose a short interval is I ran into a time on my old truck where trying to push the interval and a sudden 1,200 mile unexpected trip for a family emergency. So that change interval ran pretty long and I'm sure was done partially with worn out oil (which realize 1K on that engine was ~33% of the expected oil life, which is less of an issue now). I figure if I always leave roughly 2K of life on the table I never get caught going way over my target for an surprise trip. Same reason I try to never let the fuel tank go below 1/2. What if I needed to get somewhere right away, perhaps the hospital or someone was in accident, and I was on 'E'?