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ventilation hose no 2. part number 12262 62060

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by roehoe72, Mar 5, 2015.

  1. Mar 8, 2015 at 12:46 PM
    #21
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    You have it right.
    You could certainly experiment putting the can there. It will not hurt anything at all. I did a bit of experimenting myself with one in the usual spot.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/351301-3-4-oil-catch-can.html
    In the long run, if there is any question about the PCV valve, just replace it along with the rubber grommet on the valve cover. The valve just pull/twists out of the valve cover and the hose. When they get old the grommet gets hard and brittle so it can require some effort to pull the valve. The grommet can break apart so keep that in mind and try to keep the larger pieces from falling into the valve cover.
     
  2. Mar 8, 2015 at 12:48 PM
    #22
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So i looked (more like glanced) at the thread you linked, and i found the part numbers. I copied and pasted the pcv valve into Google and clicked images. None of which pointed to the driver side valve cover. In defense of said thread it was for a 4runner. No biggie, i will keep looking.. My main question is can this be changed in the truck. I understand it would be easier to take the cover off, but i really don't want to get into all that...
     
  3. Mar 8, 2015 at 1:18 PM
    #23
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    The PCV valve is on the pass side valve cover, right there at the front. See post 21.
     
  4. Mar 8, 2015 at 1:23 PM
    #24
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok, im confused. Or someone else is. I know there is a pcv valve on the passenger side valve cover, right in front, by the silencer/resonator box on the intake tube. Im asking about the metal tube coming out of the valve cover on the drivers side... Is that a pcv of sorts also? Is it replaceable?
     
  5. Mar 8, 2015 at 1:24 PM
    #25
    smokn

    smokn Unsenior Member

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    As Dirty said, passenger side. The drivers side has the valveless hose that this current thread is talking about. Also, I want to reiterate what Dirty said, the old grommet is fairly likely to break apart and fall into the valve cover. That's why it's a very convenient procedure to do when you already have the cover's off.
     
  6. Mar 8, 2015 at 1:27 PM
    #26
    StAndrew

    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    Intake, exhaust, lift. Typical stuff.
    When I installed my catch can, I just popped a filter on the rear vent. That was a bad idea; so many fumes were coming out, I couldn't run fresh air into the cabin without smelling gas and oil fumes.

    Next I tried to run the rear vent to the catch can but that just messed with the crank pressure and cause my oil light to go off when idling.

    Lastly, I reinstalled the filter but used a one way check valve to make sure its only sucking in air. I used one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121313021515?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    I cleaned out the PCV valve and it doing much better now.
     
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  7. Mar 8, 2015 at 1:32 PM
    #27
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    What smokn said. The metal tube at the rear of the pass valve cover is just a metal tube.
     
  8. Mar 8, 2015 at 1:43 PM
    #28
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok, so we all agree. No valve, just a metal vent tube coming off drivers side valve cover into a vacuum hose, going into the intake tube. I thought about doing two catch cans. One on the pcv valve for sure. And one on the line that this thread is about. But then after DIRTY pool (sorry, not DEAD pool) explained the system and i figured it out, i think just a simple in line filter would work. Just something as a visual aid to see if the system is working properly. Basically what standrew said....Btw standrew, you got a pic of your setup?
     
  9. Mar 8, 2015 at 2:33 PM
    #29
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Unless you have finally correctly connected your PCV valve back to full manifold vacuum, there is no sucking going on at all. In fact having a check valve on the "inlet" end could create disastrous crankcase pressures, enough to compromise engine seals and gaskets. Worse with your turbo.
     
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  10. Mar 8, 2015 at 4:08 PM
    #30
    StAndrew

    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    What? No. The PCV vents and the rear valve is intake. If you don't put a check valve then what happens is you vent from both ports. You put the check valve on the rear vent and that insures you are only venting via the PCV and the rear vent is for intake only.
     
  11. Mar 8, 2015 at 4:12 PM
    #31
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  12. Mar 8, 2015 at 6:38 PM
    #32
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    You do not understand how crankcase ventilation works.
    Combustion gasses leak into the crankcase of all piston engines. If the crankcase and the other internally connected areas (valve covers) were sealed the pressure of those gasses would increase until a seal or gasket blew out. Hence in the old days this pressure was allowed to freely vent usually thru an opening in a valve cover cap, an oil fill tube and another point sometimes connected to a hose/pipe hanging down near the bottom of the engine known as a "road draft tube".
    This was a huge source of pollution, as you could smell in your cab. Positive Crankcase Ventilation was developed to draw off and burn these gasses using manifold vacuum regulated by the PVC valve. The PCV valve just meters the amount of vacuum used so as not to disturb the air/fuel mix.
    Think of it this way. Manifold Vacuum, metered by the PCV valve, continuously draws air thru the crankcase/valve covers carrying the gasses with it. In theory the volume of this air exceeds the amount of gasses leaking past the piston rings so the gasses are just carried along with it. To make up this deficit, clean air is allowed to enter the engine at the rear of the driver side valve cover. Thus we have "positive" or forced ventilation of the crankcase. A check valve at the inlet side of the system combined with a stuck/clogged PCV valve would contain the "blow by" gasses until something gives. Remember that blow by has the potential pressure equivalent to the combustion chamber itself.

    Enter your turbo that pressurizes the manifold when in boost. There are 2 choices.
    1
    Toss the PCV valve altogether and just allow the blow by gas to vent by itself from both valve covers. This is fine for a race engine but will contribute to sludge build up and will be frowned upon by any "inspectors" and the environmentally conscious. The valve covers could be plumbed into a catch can with a filtered vent to mitigate the emissions to some degree.
    2 Use the stock PCV valve connected to the stock port on the manifold with your check valve in the line to prevent boost pressure leaking back into the crankcase. Under boost (check valve closed) the blow by gasses will have to exit via the normal inlet on the driver side valve cover so it should be plumbed to a can or filter or something. A can could also be used in the PVC line as well.

    Above are basic methods. In some cases folks need more complex systems using check valves, pressure sensors and control valves to get the job done.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2015
  13. Mar 8, 2015 at 7:00 PM
    #33
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    :duel: sorry i just had to throw the dueling in there. you guys are both shedding some good light on this subject. Dirty pool, thats an excellent write up. Really helps explain the system better to me, and hopefully others as well. And now i know why my old trail bike (79 kawasaki 100) had a hose hanging of it, i think. Its enough of a strong argument to convince me to just leave the intake portion of the system alone. Ill just remember to check for residual oil in my intake every oil change. Standrew, if that works in your setup, awesome. Im just not gonna risk it. However i do plan to still add a catch can to the pcv valve side. Thanks for all the info. Btw, ive been poking around your build standrew. How is the truck with a turbo? Im assuming its done obviously. I bet it wakes the damn thing up..!
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2015
  14. Mar 8, 2015 at 8:28 PM
    #34
    StAndrew

    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    The reason the rear vent was originally designed was to allow the crank pressure to normalized as the engine cools down so you don't suck in your seals. Putting a one way check valve on the rear vent to only allow air to flow in maintains the integrity of the PCV system.
     
  15. Mar 8, 2015 at 8:36 PM
    #35
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Dang it, now you've made me second thought my second think!!!! :annoyed:
     
  16. Mar 8, 2015 at 9:05 PM
    #36
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    I don't know where you heard that but it is completely false. The rear port serves only to let fresh air in as the PVC valve sucks it thru and out the other end to the intake manifold along with any blow by gasses, that's the ventilation part. It's that simple. What would happen if the PCV valve was to become stuck closed or clogged with a check valve on the inlet end (rear, pass valve cover)?
    Till tomorrow.
     
  17. Mar 8, 2015 at 9:07 PM
    #37
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  18. Mar 8, 2015 at 9:08 PM
    #38
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  19. Mar 9, 2015 at 5:16 AM
    #39
    StAndrew

    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    My valve lasted about 100k miles before it got gummed up but it still wasn't clogged. I think Ill be ok :notsure:

    If you don't know how to do regular maintenance on your truck then go ahead and leave the rear valve open, but don't preach the apocalypse just because you don't agree. Just say something like, "I don't agree, I like to play it safe and do it this way". Im sure OP can make a decision for himself.
     

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