Visible Positive Camber After Alignment

I recently put a 3 inch spacer leveling kit in the front and 2-4 inch lift UCAs. I still have positive camber even after several alignments at multiple different places. I’m frustrated after spending hundreds on alignments. Any help?

 

Post pics of your alignment cams and a copy of the most recent alignment spec sheet.

 

Here is the printout. The reason why the numbers were so bad before is because I tried to align it myself and it didn’t work out. I then took it to an alignment shop and told them that my camber was visibly positive and they said they would fix it. Well, they didn’t.

 

Normal, especially with spacer lifts. You have to sacrifice camber for caster.

The lower cams can't compensate for the puck lift you put in.

2 degrees of caster and just under 1 degree of camber is normal.

If you want better you need after market control arms like SPC arms.

Ideally you want 2.5++ caster and near 0 camber.

 

you literally just needed a toe set and it probably would have been fine

 

I do have aftermarket UCAs. So just to clarify, with a 3 inch spacer lift and aftermarket UCAs, I can’t have 0 camber and 2.5 caster? Is it essentially one or the other?

 

You need a shop that knows what they are doing, you need to rotate the ball joint to give more caster so you can regain the camber with the lower eccentrics.

I can easily get 0 degrees camber and 2.5+ caster with SPC's.

You can even slide the ball joint inboard as long as it doesnt contact the shock. This reduces camber as well.

 

What UCA do you have?

 

I have KSP control arms. They claimed to fix angles for 2-4” lift, which mine falls right in the middle at 3”. So do you recommend I take it to a better shop and tell them I want 0 toe, 0 camber, and at least 2.5 caster if possible?

 

Post pics of your cam bolts

 

I don’t have any pics of them, but I can get some. They are just about maxed out. I tried to fix the camber myself put messing with the cam bolts and the only thing that it did was mess everything else up.

 

I suggest you stop wasting your money on alingments and save it towards some proper arms and struts.

Unfortunately there is some products that can claim on paper what isn't really true and take advantage of more cash strapped buyers. Save up, try to find the most budget friendly option that has a reputation across the board and go that direction. Then maybe sell off the KSP's on ebay to some idiot who just want's "offroad looking" suspension and won't give half a damn about being slightly off spec like yourself.

 

Ok thanks for the advice. What are some proper arms and struts that you would recommend?

 

Just find a different alignment shop, your before measurements were almost perfect except for the extreme toe.

 

You are talking about a double wishbone front suspension that uses an adjustment cam on both the front and rear of the LCA. If you adjust for toe, you will also change chamber and caster and have to adjust the rear also.

He even said he's tried "multiple places" granted most alingment shops have barely out of H.S. teens but common denominator be damned, his lift kit, particulary those UCA's are the problem.

 

Possible some SPC's/mevotechs (found on rockauto) and bilstien 5100's. You probably won't get to 3", maybe 2-2.5"s but even that is big enough for 34's with a proper alignment.

puck lifts have a lot of downsides, not only do they effect the strut's but there is the issue of your struts bottoming out before you hit the bump stops and them snapping. Which depending on where you live (and the weather) doesn't even require offroading to happen.

I'm mostly spitballing on the arms to go with from what I've seen here, so dig around here. But i've already seen on other cars what bad out of spec arms has done to several cars. So don't just go spend your money based on my word and dig a little bit more.

I'll be doing Icon Delta Joints personally on the suspension rebuild, but that's not something I'd expect someone to do unless they have cash to burn.

 

Or go TC HEIM uppers. I have a perfect alignment now

 

Has the truck been in any accidents?

 

Service manual tolerance range for camber is -0.3 to +1.3 deg. There's also the requirement that LH and RH wheels should be within 0.5 deg of each other. Your numbers meet those requirements http://www.ttguide.net/adjustment-1410.html Does the truck drive straight?

Which part of the country are you in? Being 5 years old, at least one of the cam bolts may be seized, which will limit the number of things the mechanic can adjust.