Volcom Tacoma 2.0 Build Thread and BS

Yep, that's broke. Good thing I've got a spare! Going in right now. Noticed a howling from the back end the last few weeks, finally parked the truck for good last week and decided I had to swap the diff finally, didn't feel safe driving it. Glad I did that! Could have fucked up more stuff if I'd kept driving it. Axle shafts look fine, so hopefully no issues with the new diff!

 

Phew. Good find.

 

Lol just posted in your thread before I saw this. Yeah like two weeks ago I noticed the howling sound on decell now did it continuously when I hit the throttle, so I knew something was going on in there, and last week I drove myself and my son to pick up some Starbucks for the family (5 minute drive on sidestreets) and it sounded REALLY bad, so I parked it and refused to drive it again until I could swap the diffs. I'm super glad I didn't procrastinate this and try to take it to work. Catastrophic failure would have sucked doing 80 on the highway.
Axle shafts look fine, so I think just those teeth snapped.

I wonder how much lost acceleration there was from those skipped teeth that I didn't super notice. Looking forward to breaking in the new diff. Definitely gonna break in for 1k miles this time and do oil swaps at 500

 

Holy crap! And yours is a 15! How did that happen?!

 

Did you actually read any of the thread or just my last post?

 

New Uniballs in hand from SDHQ, but no snap ring pliers. Ordered a set from Amazon a month ago, finally checked to see what was up with them, apparently they had to make them still as they weren't even shipping until the end of July. Ordered a new set this evening should be here on Sunday. Uniballs should be pretty easily changed, pull snap ring, knock out old one, insert new one, snap ring, profit. Dumping a boat load of lube on the current ones is the only way to get them to shut up and that's just not gonna work long term. My fault for not taking better care of them, oh well. Just don't want that creak to turn in to "uniball failure and stuck in a parking lot"

 

Also finally cleaned out the garage a bit and doing more shelf clean up to clear more floor space. Almost enough space to set up a paint booth and get rid of the two tone truck.

 

are they cheaper/better/lower cost from SDHQ than Camburg?

 

How do they fail? seems like it would take a lot for one to get bad enough to be un-drivable.

 

When I got my truck (bought it used with the Camburg full LT race kit), it had a problem with steering. Any input would stay, meaning it wouldnt track back to center, so I constantly had to readjust my steering. I finally changed out the lower Uniballs, and that was the problem. The teflon lining in them had worn out (sand and dirt destroyed the lining over time). Smooth steering after that. I have to dry lube them every couple of weeks or depending on what I put them through, more or less often. But definitely high maintenance if you want your LT uniballs to last. I recall that depending on use, the uniballs should last a couple of years, but probably less...

 

I just PM'd them and said I want Uniballs for the Camburg kit. Whether they sent me Camburg uniballs or not, I'm not sure, nothing on the uniballs bags says Camburg. Not even sure if Camburg themselves make the uniballs in house. If the new ones start getting shitty in the next few months I'ma be calling up SDHQ with a WTF, because I fully intent on keeping maintenance up on these.

 

This.

But also like anything, once something no longer smoothly operates it's only a matter of time before it fails.

 

I could be mistaken, but I believe Camburg (like most) use FK uniballs

 

New mod I just picked up. Should help with down force at high speed I think

 

I've had the liners on mine wear out too, horrible noises and all. And lowers seem to wear faster than uppers.

My question is how does it go from annoyingly loud and sticky, to leaving you stranded? It's a stainless ball pressed in a stainless ring, it should be so sloppy that you can't drive the truck before that fails (unlike a ball joint, which can break easily,).

Or am I missing something?

 

I wanna say I read someone on here that had one shear or something? I'd say once the liners die off there's too much play on the balls which causes added stress on the bolts and those end up shearing. Something like that

 

Hmm. Ok. Makes sense.

I suspect you'd get some vibes first. I've never let one get that loose, as HH6 hates the noise

 

Maybe I'm thinking of just a bolt shearing. Anyways, it still wouldn't be a fun way to drive with a failed uniball lol.

 

You'll be so annoyed by the other symptoms before you get to them sheering off the bolts, and be forced to change them way before they get so sloppy...