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wanna see rust....?

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by frrodriguez08, Nov 30, 2012.

  1. Nov 30, 2012 at 2:48 PM
    #1
    frrodriguez08

    frrodriguez08 [OP] Active Member

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    Truck still 1400 miles away
    I just "imported" to San Antonio TX from Connecticut (is this the right spelling?) a 2006 4 cyl, 4 x 4, 5 spd. stnd. Got it on tuesday, i will post pics. of the 18 wheeler that could not turn into my cul-de-sac . :mad: But anyway: the truck smells like vomit inside (i think they've had aged cheese for lunch and then it came out!) :eek: I can fix that.

    The real tragedy is the rust....I was srcrewing the license plates holders and happened to lose a nut under the chasi so i ducked down and :( there it was, rust on the back cross member (i think that is the name)
    and some other areas, some of the nuts and screws look also rusted.

    Any help:confused:, can I rinho coat these areas, is it expensive, do i need to stone grind all the rust first? or just leave as is.....?????
     
  2. Nov 30, 2012 at 2:52 PM
    #2
    KenpachiZaraki

    KenpachiZaraki Its Wicked Flow BITCHES!!

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  3. Nov 30, 2012 at 6:13 PM
    #3
    toyodajeff

    toyodajeff Well-Known Member

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    Buy a wire brush and some scotchbrite pads. Sand away at the rust areas with them. Buy some spray paint and paint the rusted areas. I like to use krylon satin black on the frame. I live in Ga so I dont have a huge problem with rust like a northern truck would
     
  4. Nov 30, 2012 at 6:14 PM
    #4
    Rackster

    Rackster Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to hear that your new purchase came with this kind of surprise. Unfortunately, rust comes with the territory - road salt can do a number on a vehicle, especially the underbody/frame.

    Depending on what you have in mind, there are a few things you can do to slow the decay. My first suggestion is to do a thorough wash of the under body/frame to remove any corrosive salt deposits. I've found that when inspecting the frame of my '00 Ranger I would find grains of salt on the top side of the frame. These 'grains', which are much larger than what comes out of the shaker, are the drying deposits of salty slush that gets kicked up under the vehicle. As they become wet again, they create concentrated spots that invite rust much faster. I've seen these deposits during the spring and summer months when there isn't any salt being used on the roads, so it's a leftover from the winter months. You want to get that off by powerwashing the vehicle and doing physical removal.

    Once clean, you need to remove as much of the scale rust as possible and prime it with a rust inhibiting primer. There are expensive products out there that will actually stop the rusting process, so you may want to look into these. I understand that they are thick, pastey product that is brushed on, so more elbow grease needed to get it on. For me, I did the best I could at removing the scale, priming, painting and used a spray on undercoat on top of that. I had the Ranger looking ready for another 12 years before I sold it. I also replaced the corroded fasteners now while the removal was still possible with a wrench.

    Lesson to be learned: best to buy a vehicle that isn't from a rust-belt.

    Good luck with the project!!
     
  5. Nov 30, 2012 at 6:18 PM
    #5
    Rackster

    Rackster Well-Known Member

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    And pay particular attention to the spare tire mounts and accessories. Clean, clean, clean these items else you could be stuck with a flat tire and a perfectly good spare that you can't release.
     
  6. Nov 30, 2012 at 6:26 PM
    #6
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    Rear leaf spring tsb 5000 miles, w ac fan 26k miles, windshield creaking 28k miles- not warranty. Bad upper idler pulleys 32k miles- not warranty, Toyota Quality!
    Wire wheel brush and some POR-15 will do the trick.
     
  7. Nov 30, 2012 at 6:32 PM
    #7
    toyodajeff

    toyodajeff Well-Known Member

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    After you sand an area down it will help if you wipe it off with rubbing alcahol and a rag to get any oil or dust off of the area. Do this before you paint so the paint will stick better
     
  8. Nov 30, 2012 at 6:35 PM
    #8
    Rackster

    Rackster Well-Known Member

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    Good point!!
     
  9. Dec 1, 2012 at 6:35 AM
    #9
    frrodriguez08

    frrodriguez08 [OP] Active Member

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    Truck still 1400 miles away
    Hey that sound doable, thanks for the good advise!
     
  10. Dec 1, 2012 at 6:50 AM
    #10
    frrodriguez08

    frrodriguez08 [OP] Active Member

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    Truck still 1400 miles away
    Well you ve just given me a busy couple of weekends, but you are absolutely right, this corrosion will increase if no remedy is applied. I guess renting space in a car garage will be the best way to work off the scaling, look for those salty debris , remove them and to brush metal parts before coating with corrosion resistant paint. thanks for you deep insight into this. I took a gamble buying the truck without me being there and now these are the consequences. On the other hand in this area of Texas there are no 4 cyl, 4x4 so the hunting was good fun.
     
  11. Dec 1, 2012 at 6:57 AM
    #11
    frrodriguez08

    frrodriguez08 [OP] Active Member

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    Well you've just given me a busy couple of weekends, but you are absolutely right, this corrosion will increase if no remedy is applied soon. I guess renting space in a car garage will be the best way to work off the scaling, look for those salty debris remove them and to brush metal parts before coating with corrosion resistant primer. Thanks for your deep insight into this. I took a gamble buying the truck without me being there and now these are the consequences. On the other hand in this area of Texas there are no 4 cyl, 4x4 so the hunting was good fun.
     
  12. Dec 1, 2012 at 7:00 AM
    #12
    frrodriguez08

    frrodriguez08 [OP] Active Member

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    Will make sure to do that, What about using thinner instead ?
     
  13. Dec 1, 2012 at 7:02 AM
    #13
    Airun

    Airun Well-Known Member

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    Post up pics when you get a chance! And good luck, make it a fun project. Paint thinner or mineral spirits should work as well, just be more careful when applying.
     
  14. Dec 1, 2012 at 7:07 AM
    #14
    jjew18

    jjew18 the Nightman cometh!

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    Welcome aboard and good luck! Sounds like our Northern brothers have the solution, do you have pics? It may just be surface rust, scratch that, probably is just surface rust.
     
  15. Dec 3, 2012 at 8:12 AM
    #15
    Mr. Annoying

    Mr. Annoying Active Member

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    As one of the people from CT rust is a fact of life I usually go the other way from south to north that being said a hot power wash is the first step , a lot a good amount of time to this task then sand prep and paint with the focus on prep my 2002 hasent needed a new frame ( yet)
     
  16. Dec 6, 2012 at 9:59 AM
    #16
    TacomaJack09

    TacomaJack09 Well-Known Member

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    I'm fighting rust issues myself. I heard fluid film is a good product for stopping rust.
     
  17. Dec 6, 2012 at 10:02 AM
    #17
    OZ-T

    OZ-T Did you get your precious photos ?

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    How am I supposed to see rust when there's no pics ?
     
  18. Dec 7, 2012 at 2:35 PM
    #18
    frrodriguez08

    frrodriguez08 [OP] Active Member

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    Truck still 1400 miles away
    I uploaded (for the first time) some of the pictures I just took some few minutes ago.
    I will upload some more, is not easy to take pictures on this subject without a lift ramp.

    IMG_0277 (2).jpg
    IMG_0278 (2).jpg
    IMG_0279 (2).jpg
    IMG_0280 (2).jpg
    IMG_0281 (2).jpg
     
  19. Dec 7, 2012 at 2:40 PM
    #19
    frrodriguez08

    frrodriguez08 [OP] Active Member

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    Truck still 1400 miles away
    here are some more

    IMG_0282 (2).jpg
    IMG_0283 (2).jpg
    IMG_0284 (2).jpg
    IMG_0286 (2).jpg
    IMG_0287 (2).jpg
    IMG_0288 (2).jpg
    IMG_0289 (2).jpg
    IMG_0290 (2).jpg
    IMG_0291 (2).jpg
    IMG_0292 (2).jpg
     
  20. Dec 7, 2012 at 2:41 PM
    #20
    OZ-T

    OZ-T Did you get your precious photos ?

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    Honestly , not as bad as I thought it would be

    Still not awesome for you though OP
     
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