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Want .5" to 1" more rear lift, options? Shackles?

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Mainmoe02, Jun 4, 2013.

  1. Jun 4, 2013 at 4:36 PM
    #1
    Mainmoe02

    Mainmoe02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Moe
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    3" lift EIBACH coils w/ 5100's front, OME/ Dakar leaf springs w/ toytec adjustable shackles at 1.5" and 5125's out back. 33x10.5x15 KM2's Relentless DIY steel bumper.
    I recently added:
    eibach coils with 5100's up front
    OME leaf pack w/ 5125's

    Got just over 3" up front and right at 2.25" rear lift.

    I'm wanting about .5" more in the rear to have the tiniest rake from back to front. I want to add an AAL eventually but not just yet. want to see what the height is like after bigger tires (33's)

    I was thinking longer shackles??? Im using stock shackles at the moment.

    What are my shackle lift options? Can I get .5" (1" max ) with new shacks?

    I've done research but want to hear from people that have experience or know about this type of lift.

    Thanks for the help!
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2013
  2. Jun 4, 2013 at 4:39 PM
    #2
    kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    I have 1" lift shackles with my OME leaf pack and I like them. I'm not sure about any shackles that give just .5" of lift
     
  3. Jun 4, 2013 at 5:12 PM
    #3
    Mainmoe02

    Mainmoe02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3" lift EIBACH coils w/ 5100's front, OME/ Dakar leaf springs w/ toytec adjustable shackles at 1.5" and 5125's out back. 33x10.5x15 KM2's Relentless DIY steel bumper.
    That's what I was wondering. I don't think there are 1/2 inch shackle lifts. 1" would be fine for me. I'm guessing you put the longer shackles in when you installed your new leaf packs.

    Wonder how difficult it would be to replace old shackles for longer shackles?
    Seems like it would be as simple as unbolt and replace, but is anything ever that easy:sadviolin:
     
  4. Jun 4, 2013 at 5:13 PM
    #4
    95 taco

    95 taco Redneck rich

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    replacing shackles is easy, a ratchet and a wrench is all you need.
     
  5. Jun 4, 2013 at 5:18 PM
    #5
    Mainmoe02

    Mainmoe02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3" lift EIBACH coils w/ 5100's front, OME/ Dakar leaf springs w/ toytec adjustable shackles at 1.5" and 5125's out back. 33x10.5x15 KM2's Relentless DIY steel bumper.
    Nice!:D

    Would I just have to unbolt on the shackle end?
    Or would I have to unbolt main eye, U-bolts, etc...?
     
  6. Jun 4, 2013 at 5:18 PM
    #6
    kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    I installed the shackles months after I initially installed the lift. Corrosion from winters of road salt made it more difficult to do but it wasn't too bad. A ratchet and wrench, as 95 taco said, is really about all that is needed. I would recommend using a hammer or something to pound out the old shackles.
     
  7. Jun 4, 2013 at 5:19 PM
    #7
    kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    Just the shackle end. Make sure everything is secured though. Put jack stands under rear axle and under the frame of the truck
     
  8. Jun 4, 2013 at 5:19 PM
    #8
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    You could easily get someone to make a set custom for 1/2" of lift.

    In reality the only thing they would need to do is take a longer shackle, cut it down, drill a hole, and grind it smooth.

    I ordered mine at 6" so I can cut them down as need be for my truck... now just waiting for them to arrive one day
     
  9. Jun 4, 2013 at 7:32 PM
    #9
    ToyoTaco02

    ToyoTaco02 Well-Known Member

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    OME 881 1/4" top plate spacer OME Dakars OME Nitrochargers Light Racing UCA
    All pro makes a 1.5" longer shackle that will give you .75" more lift.
     
  10. Jun 4, 2013 at 7:39 PM
    #10
    jermoids

    jermoids Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around with the fronts set at 1.75" 1" readylift blocks in the back. antenna X shorty antenna. smittybilt step sides. MKW M19 satin black wheels 17x8.5 plasti dip'd front emblem and hood scoop.
    would changing shackles be a better option then blocks for 1" of lift?
     
  11. Jun 4, 2013 at 7:56 PM
    #11
    kjf216

    kjf216 Fitz

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    sorry to hijack this thread but dyob don't you have a more pressing issue with said truck....to everyone else i was never here :anonymous:
     
  12. Jun 4, 2013 at 8:07 PM
    #12
    95 taco

    95 taco Redneck rich

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    absolutely, a lift shackle is like a drop bracket lift for the rear, it just moves the mounting point for the suspension.
     
  13. Jun 4, 2013 at 8:33 PM
    #13
    jermoids

    jermoids Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around with the fronts set at 1.75" 1" readylift blocks in the back. antenna X shorty antenna. smittybilt step sides. MKW M19 satin black wheels 17x8.5 plasti dip'd front emblem and hood scoop.
    interesting, and thank you. wonder why more people don't recommend this option when people are wanting to use blocks or aal's for small lifts? sounds like a pretty basic way to get 1" in the rear.
     
  14. Jun 4, 2013 at 8:35 PM
    #14
    95 taco

    95 taco Redneck rich

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    oh crap, you're a 2nd gen, didn't see that on my phone.
    2nd gens have to do a shackle flip, that messes with the shackle angle, which messes with travel.

    i'll let someone who knows more about shackle flips chime in.
     
  15. Jun 4, 2013 at 11:07 PM
    #15
    kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    This is probably the closest you'll get without custom shackles made.
    Yes they would (for 1st gens)
    I would disagree with that. Blocks are more of a drop bracket lift for the rear imo. If you don't go crazy with the amount of lift from the shackles you will have no problems. Also people tend to have more problems using shackle lifts up front (not stock Tacomas obviously). I would keep it below 1-1.5" of lift. You also gain more suspension droop with longer shackles.
     
  16. Jun 5, 2013 at 5:17 AM
    #16
    Mainmoe02

    Mainmoe02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3" lift EIBACH coils w/ 5100's front, OME/ Dakar leaf springs w/ toytec adjustable shackles at 1.5" and 5125's out back. 33x10.5x15 KM2's Relentless DIY steel bumper.
    Perfect, just what I'm wanting. I'm gonna place an order. Thanks for the help!

    Yeah I def don't want blocks under my new leaf springs.

    If someone can give me a better idea to get a MAX of 1" rear lift then chime in please.
     
  17. Jun 15, 2013 at 11:22 PM
    #17
    BlackSportD

    BlackSportD Well-Known Member

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    TRD S/C, TS PNP AEM FIC, TS 420cc injectors, TS water/meth, TS 2.2 pulley, Hayden tranny cooler, AEM wideband, TRD boost gauge.
    OP, a little OT, what do you think of your 5125s? I hate mine, I'm almost convinced they are factory flaws and the valving was done wrong. Found this thread cause I'm looking up shackles for a moderate lift myself.
     
  18. Jun 18, 2013 at 10:06 AM
    #18
    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    Get a custom axle shim to correct for the lift induced drive shaft angle change that is .5" thick. Problem solved.
     
  19. Jun 18, 2013 at 1:35 PM
    #19
    Mainmoe02

    Mainmoe02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3" lift EIBACH coils w/ 5100's front, OME/ Dakar leaf springs w/ toytec adjustable shackles at 1.5" and 5125's out back. 33x10.5x15 KM2's Relentless DIY steel bumper.
    i like the 5125s, much better ride than before, but i came from shocks that were bottoming out or bumpstoped. I got the 5125s because i want to get a full 3" in the rear and want the option to do an AAL soon. all in all i may be close to 3.5"- 4" rear lift once i add the shackles and AAL. 5125s are recomended for lifts above 3" so there is enough travel. Do yours feel stiff? maybe some height with the shackles will change that? ive heard people say they are stiff, but thats mainly from those who added 1.5" lift to the rear, which they should have gotten the 5100 extended lengths.

    I was thinking a shim but have never used them. will they cause any axlewrap? that was my main concern.
     
  20. Jun 18, 2013 at 7:59 PM
    #20
    BlackSportD

    BlackSportD Well-Known Member

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    My 5125s would do great in a truck that carried a load, but hauling air, its bone aching harsh and allows way too much rebound. If I had a 1.5+ lift, I would have stuck with 5100 all around but DSM recommended the 5125s for my OE height (didn't want to lift yet, my dog is getting real old and its hard on her to jump down- its gotten to were I use a jacket lift thing to get her in).

    In hindsight I shouldn't have gotten shocks at all I suppose, and just held out for when I was ready for a lift, or gotten the 5100s in the rear with the warning that they may not fair well if bottomed out.

    Maybe the longer 5125s come with different valving as its obvious its not going on a work truck, or maybe the lift puts them in a different valving region, I don't know, but I soooo wish I had the tools on hand to take them off, pop them open and change out the valving to pretty much reverse where they are at now- drastically reduce compression resistance, and increase rebound resistance. But again, if I were carrying a good few hundred plus lbs in the back all the time, the valving would probably make the load feel very controlled.

    I've got a bud built traction bar on the way, so axle wrap can lick my a**, it isn't going to happen any more (my truck has chronic axle wrap). So now I'm doing preemptive research into an affordable rear lift, not worried about axle wrap. Looking at:
    - OMD leaf spring job-- probably the best option, but pricey compared to the bellow options, and again, axle wrap is no longer a concern.
    - shackles
    - spacers
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2013
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