Wanting to re-gear my 2023 TRD OR (Bay Area)

Oh, EE that explains everything. The electronics on these trucks will challenge you. Gounds are white with a black tracer. Much of the wires are so small and there are modules all over the place. If you have some experience with CANBUS or LIN it would be nice to share. I've dealt with electronics much of my life and when I went with lockers in another vehicle, I chose Air Lockers instead of electrical lockers because I did not want to deal with any electrons while I was out enjoying myself. Even with the Air Lockers I use pneumatic switches instead of the electrical switches & solenoids ARB supplies. I would like to troubleshoot a leaky one direction pipe in the field than two or more wires.

 

The only “quantitative” thing i have is a 0-60 in 7.54 seconds on 265/75/16 which is faster then stock tune on stock size tires, and 26 mpg cruising at 65 mph. Your points of warranty purposes are definitely valid. I believe the dealer can detect it if they dig really deep, but you can also flash it back to stock anytime, and I’ve personally never heard of someone blowing their 3.5 because of a tune offered by any tuners for these trucks

 

Just wanted to add my personal experience here. My Taco is on +2 LT (unrelated) running 35s with -38mm wheel offset. I did C4 CMR, 5.29 regear and also the OTT tune. Can't be any happier.

Btw techbro here too so please don't judge me

If you want to go down the CMR, re-gearing or tune, highly recommend Shaffer's Offroad in Union City for re-gearing and CMR and J.C for OTT tuning (he goes by central_coast_tuning on IG). Feel free to DM me if you need the contacts.

Edit: Looks like you already talked to Shaffer's. I did my re-gearing about 2/3 years ago so I can't comment on the quote for that. But as someone who goes to Shaffer's a lot I honestly recommend them a lot. Mike and Alex has worked on my rig since the beginning. Unlike a lot of other shops that are nothing more than installers, Mike and his team actually goes out wheeling to Rubicon and Baja so they know very well what can go wrong and hence what to do right the first time around.

 

Yeah it’s not like a forced induction car where you can really push it to ragged operating points. I’m imaging the worst you could do is dumb down the knock sensors and run more timing advance than you really ought to which can break shit but not with quite the spectacular speed of a turbo car.

 

I’d like to consider them but a quote of $2420 to just install gears and only $500 less for suspension seems wild no?

I’m gonna give em a call and see if we can’t work something out as a package deal. I have more money than free time, but I’m also not looking to be bent TF over ya know? I want someone else to do it in case there’s issues I can just dump it back on them because…see more money than free time. I’d also prefer no issues because issues = time getting from San Jose to Union City.

Nice rig man, 35’s look sick but I just don’t wanna deal with the fender liner chopping and CMC and all that noise. The truck feels too new for that, who knows I may end up there in the end and if I do I’d prob regret 4.88 then again a lot of folks 4.88 on 35’s…

 

For cruising purposes, I see no reason not to choose 5.29 and that would be with me wanting to stick to stock tires or 265/75R16. It will not be near as dramatic as it seems because 6th gear in the automatic is ridiculously tall. Automatics with 5.29 and stock tires rev the same in top gear as a factory completely stock manual - 2400 rpm at 70. If if helps put my opinion into perspective, I actually have a manual with 5.29s and 265/75R16 and I love it. So I’m now revving over 3K on the highway compared to the automatic if it had 5.29s. This motor does better with low gears. I see no reason to choose 4.88 for an auto personally.

If I was going to tow a lot, I’d probably keep the tires stock and run 4.30s so that 4th gear wasn’t too low for cruising. The jump from 4th to 5th is pretty large in the automatic. In stock form you’re supposed to tow in 4th, going to 5.29 still doesn’t really make 5th low enough to be like stock 4th. Yet 4th would be much lower than stock and uncomfortable to cruise in, and that goes for both 4.88 and 5.29.

 

Forsure. Chan told me if I were to put 87 octane in and romp on the gas it would knock like hell and could throw a rod due to the timing being off and engine being timed for 91 octane

 

I won’t speak about price (I spent way more than it appears you want to) I’m running the same size tires w/5.29s, 5100s set for 1”, only add-ons are rock sliders. Depending on where I drive I’m averaging 17-23mpg…I enjoyed the truck before, love it now.

 

I went with Premier West Gears in Riverside, CA (I live in Oceanside). They had me in and out within 2.5 hours for my Yukon 5.29 gears. They had a REM polish special at no cost to me. I also have +250 weight in my rear with an aftermarket bumper w/ tire carrier with a GFC topper. I also have the OTT tune all on 285/70/R17 tires with no desire (at the moment) to go bigger.

 

Come on by to Sibi Built in Orange County, we have people travel from far out of state for our work.

www.sibibuiltoffroad.com

 

If you’re worried about warranty I’m a fan of getting ECGS diffs. You can do it yourself or if you go somewhere it’s cheaper since setting gears is a job a lot don’t want to do. I did my own in my driveway. Rear is easy. Front is just more work not hard but a pain since more stiff to remove and install.

also 5 year warranty on ECGS diffs.

I had 2 or 3 replaced on my last set. So more than paid for itself.

 

1 inch is 25.4 mm.
255 vs 285 is 30 mm difference in width by specs.

 

Can you DM me the quote they sent you if you don't mind? I just looked at mine from three years ago and the labor was 10 hours worth of work although they did change the needle bearing but technically that was free because it's literally just there when they open the front diff. Also they did the post break in inspection and flush/fill as well so there's that. Also when you talk to Annie just mention that Ahsan sent you, hopefully they give you a deal. As for suspension honestly I have no idea as I did the LT on front and shock relocation on the rear so mine was completely different.

On a separate note, try to get a quote at Beep's Offroad in Hayward and Swat Customs in Fremont. To be clear, they never worked on anything mechanical on my truck so this is not a direct recommendation but a bunch of my boys get their work done at those places so might be worth a shot. Oh and maybe Stellar Built in Sac, granted they are far far away from SJ but maybe their hourly is cheaper and for longer labor hours it actually might come out cheaper than the gas from SJ to Sac.

Not saying you should or shouldn't go 35s but the fender liner trim that I did is actual a recent one when I went LT. Meaning previously I had a 2-3 inch lift on Kings and I was actually fine running with the stock fenders. Sure I was rubbing the top side at full bump but it was just a rub and not like ripping it apart or any of that. That said, yeah 35s will definitely need at least a CMC if not CMR so there's that unless you do some crazy math and find some sweet point with the wheel offset combined with pizza cutter tire maybe. I mean I personally don't know any of the sweet combo but pretty sure someone else knows in the forum.

 

Most 255/85/r16s (pizza cutter 33s) are gonna be MTs. A few months ago, our lord and savior Falken actually released the AT4Ws in a 255/85r16 sizing which is the only one of two ATs in that size that I know of (I believe the other AT in this size are the ST Maxx). I've had the Falken Wildpeak MT01 since last Feb so almost 1.5 years and since they're MTs they're loud, ride is rough, and handling is terrible on road. And it doesn't get any grip in rain or wet road conditions as expected from MTs. When the AT4Ws were announced in the size, I was so ready to dump the MT01s but they were backordered according to America's Tires and right now, I have some other stuff to take care of before going tires again. If you wanted to go 33s without doing any trimming or cutting, the AT4W should be something to talk a look at. Unfortunately, they are heavy (58ish per tire) and my MT01s are 59. Fuel economy dropped quite a bit from 18 hwy averaging 70-75ish to about 14.5-15. If I do a consistent 65, I can get 16.5-17 but the mud tires are not friendly on gas. I don't know if it'll be different on the all terrains but they're pretty similar in weight.

Lastly, if you have aftermarket UCAs, you might rub the tires on the back of the wheel wells. When I was on stock UCAs on a 2" 6112 lift, there was no rubbing at all. After I had OME UCAs put on, the front driver's tire would rub against the rear of the wheel wells (either the plastic trim/liner or the body mount, not too sure) and the passenger front would rub on the front of the wheel wells when at full or near full lock and pulling into my apartment parking lot, doesn't rub when on level surface. Got it aligned at a local "truck and auto" shop after suggestions to get more caster for around 3.5 or higher with the new UCAs and the passenger didn't rub anymore, driver side still does though. The shop wasn't a 4x4 or off road specialty place though. I mostly just asked the guy for as much caster as possible ideally 3.5+. He got the passenger to 3.5 but driver was about 3.3. I'm looking into Beeps Off road in Hayward to see if they can get me the slightly extra caster for the driver to once and for all fix the rubbing issue and one of my buddies wants to get the ECGS bushing done on his lifted Taco so we might just go to Beeps together one day when we have time off.

tl;dr: 255/85r16 "pizza cutter" 33s -> Take a look at the new Falken Wildpeak AT4Ws. One of very, very few ATs that comes in this size where they're mostly mud tires. Heavy tires though, will definitely affect acceleration and mpgs.

 

I’m running 4.88’s with a tune pizza cutters Yokohama G003 rig is 1000lbs over stock. 70 I’m at 2200 Rpm’s no complaints. Went with revolution gears. Install was $2600 or less

 

Eeeeep, well after talking to y'all I went ahead and got an OTT tune. They claim you can run whatever gas you want from 87~91 so my plan is to run mid-grade. In theory the ECU should learn how much timing advance it can get away with and the knock sensor system in these engines is pretty comprehensive having parameters divided over 3 ranges of rev's IIRC.

I would say immediately the truck feels way more responsive, nearly shockingly so from the first time I touched the gas just pulling away from being tuned. I got the mild/medium tune and it's plenty IMHO. Truck probably isn't really making much more power, it's more that the shift points are remapped and the throttle curve is more aggressive. I need to get more time on it to be sure...drive my normal work route etc where there's some small crests that would always drop me out of 6'th and see if it holds now.

 

Thanks man gonna save this data for later. In the near term I'm gonna focus on getting my suspension put on and see how this tune does with the gear/trans issues.

You have any experience with 4x4 & More in Scott's Valley? They came recommended by the guy who put the tune on my truck. I talked to Joey there today for probably 40 minutes, seemed like a really nice guy. They're offering a better price than Schaffers and are closer to me to boot. That said the price difference isn't huge and frankly when I discussed the quotes I got Joey was really respectful in saying basically nobody is going to grossly undercut the prices in this area, while they night be cheaper it's not going to be drastic. I'm waiting on the final quote but it's looking like maybe 15~20% cheaper. We discussed bringing built third members and he said they wouldn't warranty those, he seemed to prefer to just build the parts that are on the truck themselves.

I asked about Nitro and Yukon and they said, not the best gears per'se they just have pushed hard with social media presence and the like. He was suggesting Spicer and one other I forget...

 

What's your tire diameter, I'm assuming 32~33"? You're on the Auto transmission? It's pretty hard to decide 4.88 Vs 5.29, at the end of the day it's 8.4% so maybe 150 or RPM difference at 65 MPH or so.

 

Revolution? Spicer is great but I am not aware of anything they make for 4.88 and 5.29 on Toyotas, or at least not 3rd gen. Revolution is Circle K, from South Korea. Supposedly Nitro is Circle K as well. I went with Revolution. Circle K is known for good quality gears in the Jeep world so I wanted to go with them on my truck. No complaints.

Yukon is probably fine too but I find it hard to trust them these days. I’ll preface that by saying I have no experience with them in the Toyota world, but on Jeeps they went from providing Circle K to all of a sudden providing made in China crap that was really rough and several different people I know and trust had breakages. That may not be a problem in their Toyota lineup, but they really tarnished what was once a decent reputation on Jeeps, so I wasn’t going to choose them for my truck.

 

33’s pizza cutters , Automatic