Warn EVO series 4-pin remote wiring (SOLVED)

I picked up an EVO 10-S assuming it used the newer 5-pin wiring, and it's actually only 4. I can't find any info on the 4 wire setup and no combination of connections seems to do anything. I know the winch works - it worked wired before I cut the lead, it works fine spliced back together, and it works with the wireless remote feature.

Warn has zero tech data they're willing to share, which surprised me. They did tell me the remote was "special", which got me investigating. Replacement remotes are only sold together with a new microcontroller - they appear to be paired at the factory, and you can't JUST buy a new remote.

(Speculation: they're paired by channel or chirp code at the factory and they mix the shipments evenly to avoid interference with other warn winches. Further, it's a cost saving measure (nickel-pinching, not just pennies) because they can omit some fancier switches and circuitry in the remotes, since the wireless controller already has to be rigged to the contactor))

SOLVED:

So, I pulled out my pocket o-scope and started looking at the outputs from the remote. What I eventually concluded was that the EVO series uses a microcontroller to translate the remote inputs, both wired and wireless, to signals for the contactor. In other words, the in/out electrical contacts for the winch low-side are not directly connected to the wires in the remote cable.

In order to bypass the microcontroller for direct-wired operation (e.g. for in-cab controls) while still retaining wireless functionality, you can cut the white and green wires from the microcontroller, and splice the connector end directly to the yellow and blue leads going from the microcontroller to the contactor:



Now, jumping white or green to red on the controller cable will give you winch in/out, with black functioning as a bonus ground in the run, which you can use for an indicator LED on your in-cab controls. The factory remote still works in wireless mode, in case you want to winch from outside your truck.

 

Hey OP I ran into the same problem of unboxing and having the 4 pin as well. I'm trying to Install an in cab switch for in/out. Any help on what wires I would then run to the cab through a relay with the two wires that you bridged? Any help would be great since like you said there's nothing out there on the 4 pin. Pics attached of the winch and switch ill be using.

 

No relay necessary. Send red (+12v), white, and green into the cab. Switching red to white and red to green will give you in/out - I don't remember exactly offhand which is which. Test them to make sure or just use insulated spade connectors so you can switch them if you guess wrong the first time.

Your switch probably has three connections on the back - one for the +12v (red) and one for each of the buttons (green/white wire). If it's illuminated it will also need a ground, in which case you'll need to either send all four from the winch and use the black as the ground for your switch, or find a ground somewhere else in the dash.

I sent all four (sacrificed the factory supplied wired remote lead) and used a cutoff/arming switch to break/connect red, with the ground (black) used for the indicator LED on the arming switch.

Note that, as mentioned above, you will need to do a little splicing to the wires in the controller box.

 

12v applied to the yellow wire triggers in, 12v applied to the blue wire triggers out. I cut off the female spade connectors and added a second trigger wire to each, which will run into the cab for a SPDT momentary switch output. I'll supply the 12v thru a second on/off switch from a power source in the cab, so only 2 wires need to run out to the winch for control.

 

Hey @Ckelley0943,

Did you get that winch switch installed successfully? I'm considering using the same switch and curious if you ended up using a relay or not. I know CH4x4 switches say you "need" a relay, but I don't think the In/Out power wires will pull more than 3-amps, and would prefer to omit a relay if it's not necessary.

I haven't checked the amp-draw on the In/Out leads from the control box (yet). I always second-guess myself when it comes to wiring. I plan on installing a cutout switch to the ground to break the circuit when not in use.

I used the same CH4x4 switches for my Front and Rear locker solenoids w/o using a relay and they work fine (the locker solenoids pull less than 1-amp each).

 

The winch solenoid draw is extremely low - you're fine using those direct to a switch. The whole point of the winch controller itself is that it's isolating the 300A winch draw from the rest of the wiring. In other words, the winch control wires are already (essentially) controlling a relay.

Now, if you were to remove the relay box and wire your in/out buttons from the battery to the winch input, you would be doing the bad thing.

Manufacturers say you NEED a relay because otherwise Bubba will wire a 1000W Amp or a ton of lights directly through them on a common rail, then complain when the switch blows.

 

Thank you for chiming in - I figured that was the case, just to protect them from liability.

Your original post and info. are extremely helpful.

 

This thread has been more than helpful. However I am looking to splice the harbor freight wireless controller to the winch while still retaining wired function.

If I do it the original way will the wire function still work with the original remote, or does the splice over the microcontroller prevent input from being sent correctly?

I have it so the harbor freight controller plugs into the same port as the wired controller originally went to test it having it not work even though I hear the remote clicking is what led me to start digging finding out this in a microcontroller.

 

You are trying to splice a HF wireless controller to a winch that already has a wireless controller (a Warn EVO)?

Or you are trying to splice your HF controller to your HF winch?

 

I'm trying to splice it to the Warren VR Evo mine does not have a wireless controller. I only have the Post recall remote with no wireless function

 

If the HF remote has a receiver, you'll need to probe the outputs of that receiver and splice those outputs into the EVO contactor, as above. Basically, youre going to graft the HF receiver to the EVO contactor in parallel to the EVO receiver. I am not familiar with the HF remotes, so you'll need to get a meter and test it yourself.

If the HF remote doesn't have a receiver, it almost certainly won't work with the EVO.

 

What did your final configuration look like?