Warped rotors and drums every 15-20k miles ISSUE FINALLY DISCOVERED!!!!!!!

Yes, this is what I'm talking about. Everyone should read this!

 

U live in a HIGH Humidity area

sometime if U look around .....................U Will SEE rusty rotors on vehicles at where
U work that have Onlt been parked for a few hours

if Using brakes lightly the rust accumulates UNevenly screwing up the pads..............usually Not warp the rotors
just feels that way when U brake normally

Uget a pulsing

are U using OEM brake parts ?????????

 

I have 2020. I started getting brake shutter at around 5k when braking at high speed (like exiting off highway, or having to come to stop in highway traffic,,,not slamming on brakes, but smooth firm braking), just was in for 10k service told them about it. Nothing wrong they said ....okay. ... most likely nothing to do with OPs issue?, but just thrown sht on the wall and maybe something sticks ??


and i def didn't bed in the brakes after i drove it home. . dumb because I always did this when I would change pads/rotors on all my other vehicles ...this is my first new vehicle and maybe just didn't connect the dots that they still should have been bedded in by mfr spec by me?

 

Nope. Cooling has more to due with pad compound, internal vain design and air to the rotor itself.

 

One thing I learned a long time ago is that if you wash your car while the rotors are hot and you hit them with cold water, that could cause some warping.

 

Guy, Im asking u to try something. Load a few hundred lbs. say roughly 300lbs of weight in the bed of the truck and drive it around and see if it still shakes or if the problem has lessened.

 

Any mechanic that has turned drums and rotors will tell you that they can indeed warp. I saw it many times when I was wrenching way back in the mid 70’s. Drums will get out of round if you apply the emergency brake with too much force when the drums are hot. We would wrap a big rubber band around the drums as we turned them which dampen the squeal of the cutting tool until they trued up. Haven’t done this work in many years but the specs back then allowed enough meat to turn them a couple of times. Once a guy came in complaining that he couldn’t stop and when I removed his front tire I saw that rotors were worn into the center cooling fins! Wish I would have had a camera for that one.

 

i need to rebed my brakes every 5k miles or so with this truck. i think lots of light braking can start to glaze the pads/rotors. I had this same issue but almost got into an accident the other day and it fixed it. went from 60 to zero in about 2 seconds.

it will start to shutter/vibrate when slowing down at lights before i did this. Now I just try to do some hard braking every now and then.

 

try bedding in your brake pads

 

Depends more on the brake pads you choose when it comes to street vs the track not the rotors so much.

 

19 Pro here, At 10K i started to feel the shudder at high speed while breaking. Dealer also told me it was my bad breaking habits. I asked what those habits were and they couldn't explain them. They trued the rotors and replaced the pads for free. I dont think it was my breaking habits as i dont race from stop light to stop light and i dont ride the break. Maybe i should lol.

 

Do you offer any stoptech rotor and pad kits that aren’t drilled and slotted?

 

This 10,000 times.

Please OP the internet is full of well meaning, but terrible advice.
If you study how and why rotors pulsate, you will know the answer forever, and not waste time or money on magic fixes.

Bedding, torque, rust jacking, and material design with proper installation. This is the way.

Holes are for looks on the street. You will not need to outgas pad material thru your rotors on the street.

 

RockAuto has rotors/drums for $20-50 a pop. Entire front kits for $60-100 (both front rotors, pads, and hardware).

 

Well i was going through stock rotors and pads every 20k miles on my gen 1 tundra plus doing many 10 hr towing trips to quebec. I had to do something and the land cruiser brake conversion for $2k wasn't an option i really wanted. My buddy recommended the EBC rotors and stock toyota ceramic pads. It was a much cheaper fix that worked unbelievably great. I had 60k miles on this setup when checked with about 1/2 the pad life used. Braking performance was doubled and with no fade or warped rotors. I'd recommend it to anyone if having an issue as i did.

 

What is different about the ebc rotors? Seems many have good results with them

 

I keep seeing bedding new brakes but what is actually the right way to do that? When I got my 2021 the dealer said not to brake hard for the first 500 miles. I anticipated every red light or car blinker in front of me and kept a light pressure on the pedal when stopping. The lighter the pressure, the less heat generated right?

 

Ebc uses thicker properly designed fins, and corrosion resistant coatings.
They are good quality rotors.
The holes are marketing though.

 

The way I use is, find deserted area, accel up to 60, rapid firm pressure to under 20, back up to 60, rapid firm pressure to under 20, then the same again.
No stopping all the way.
That puts a smooth even layer of pad material on the rotors.