Water Bypass Pipe No.1

^^ thanks for your post and helpful tips.
Please put up the part numbers that worked for you. This pipe on Amazon says "Genuine Toyota OEM product," not sure if it's the right one:

Toyota 16268-75130 Engine Coolant Bypass Hose

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTHK6ZS

 

Unfortunately I can only tell you the one that I bought that required the custom fitting techniques. That one is the right part number and not the crappy one I bought.

 

Thanks for everyone in here contributing. I've been having a coolant leak and this is definitely the problem. Ordering my parts now..

 

Not sure if this was mentioned but the bypass pipe is steel on the newer trucks from the factory

 

Hey guys trying to buy the pipe online. Anyone know which engine has the pipe with bracket in the middle and which does not have the bracket. Theres two different pipes but dealer couldnt even tell me which pipe i need. Def dont wanna buy from the dealer for 170. So trying to figure out which one i have before pulling off the intake and then waiting with my truck down ☹

 

I did a lot of research and determined this is the correct part:

Toyota 16268-75130 Engine Coolant Bypass Hose

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTHK6ZS
It does not have the center bracket. I bought this online yesterday for $53 along with the $6.82 gasket.

 

Crap i just bought the genuine oem one on ebay with the "bracket" in the center. The pipe hoenstly looks the same just has a small tab on the top. Im guessing j can just dremel this off.

 

^Yes I hope that's all it takes to make it fit. What really matters is the dimensions between the mounting flange and the hanger/bracket on the opposite end, which are probably the same. Being metal, you can probably tweak it a little here and there (if needed) to get a good install. I'm sure you can do it.

 

Thanks guys, according to dealer, its exactly the sane exact one has that little tab and one doesnt. Fogured no way that would be in the way of anything. Cool already ordered one witb the tab. Ready to get this thing in before mine fails. Already see it starting to get the coolant build up so its def time.

 

Hello everyone. I'm new to the website, but been coming here for repairs for my truck for the past few months. As of yesterday I did the water bypass pipe replacement and finally decided to make an account and share some information.

Truck is a 2007 base model 2wd automatic. Has 320k miles. My plastic pipe started leaking and from this thread I was able to identify the part and make repairs. So with that said, I want to thank everyone involved. Here's my experience. Here's a picture of the part numbers I got from my local dealer at 53 dollars and some change. The pipe had a bracket in the middle and they recommended I buy a nut with the part, probably for the bracket mounting tab. So I did. Anyways, that gasket they supplied me does not work with the updated metal pipe, the flange in completely flat like the others pictured prior in this thread. The gasket number I have is for the original plastic part, in the flange the gasket is recessed in. You will need to source a flat gasket like others have in this thread. And yes I explained that to the dealer as I was picking parts up they insisted that was right so I went with it. It was no big deal though as Iused a gasket maker on the repair and it worked just fine.

Anyways, I started the job expecting to pull the intake manifold like it calls for. But I looked around for a shortcut and I found one so here's the purpose of my post that I want to share.

This would be probably a 1 hour job to 1.5 hrs this way. Took me a little longer as I was figuring it out but hey it was better than pulling the manifold.

So what you wanna do first is put the front end up on the air. On car ramps. Or something that you can crawl under good. Obviously chock your wheels for safety. The truck will be raised for the whole repair.

Drain your radiator, bottom driver side of the radiator is the location for the valve to drain it, drain it when the system is cold to avoid any burns.

With the vehicles front end up through the whole procedure things go much easier.

Now for me, my truck is 2wd so the 4wd may be a litter different but the idea is the same.

Take a floor jack and some blocks and pump it flush to the transmission cross-member center it right below the output shaft. Next you will need a 14mm socket and a wrench for the trans cross member bolts, there are two bolts and nuts per side of vehicle. When those are out, lower the transmission a few inches with the jack, you don't need to bring it down too much. You may need to pry the cross member out of the frame if it's gummed up from road grime or whatever.

Once you have that lowered some, pull the starter out and set it aside with wires still on it if you'd like. This gives you room. Now you can disconnect the two lines on the original bypass pipe at the rear of it one's for the throttle body, the other goes into the fire wall. Be careful as some coolant came out for me, it was cold so it didn't burn me but still wasn't fun. It was my fault as I didn't fully flush the system.
Once those hoses on the rear of the pipe are off you can now take the two 12mm nuts off of the flange end of the pipe. It's a little tight with the intake manifold on but I managed to get them off with a ratchet wrench.

Once those are off now you can pull it out from the starter area from below. There's a mounting bolt on the rear of the pipe somewhere. I forget what size.

Anyways your plastic pipe will likely break on removal but that's okay.

Now for the new one, I decided to Dremel off the mounting tab in the center of the pipe for the reason of fishing it into place from below. You can try and keep it on if you want.

Send the pipe up flange first to where it needs to be from below. This was a bit tricky but don't give up, it IS possible. There was an electrical clip for something in my way, I used a long flat screwdriver to disconnect this temporarily to get the pipe in place. Reconnected it right after it was in place.

So now that you've got the flange lined up to where it mounts, fish your gasket in there and just snug the nuts up so it stays in place for you while you connect the two lines in the back to the pipe.

Mount the pipe with the bolt in the back after the lines has been installed and then at the flange you can now fasten it fully.

And now you're done, you can put the starter back on, raise the transmission back and run the bolts back in.

Fill up the coolant system and properly, bleed the system and you're good.


A friend and I tried this route on hopes it would work like it actually did because I didn't wanna risk breaking some plastic vacuum line connector or something else similar in the cold November weather here.


So here it is for anyone else to use that want an easier route. Again thank you everyone involved in this thread as this job turned out to be not a pain as it looks like even if I did have to pull the intake manifold. Hopefully this method can help some people too.

 

You don't need the bracket, mine came with that too right from the dealer. I just hacked it off myself and installed it without pulling the intake manifold. I posted how in the post prior to this reply

 

DR_BETELGEUSE, is it truly necessary to lower the transmission for this procedure? Must be super tight in the area if lowering the transmission a few inches makes a big difference.

 

I believe so it gave some good angle for the pipe. Didn't try it with just the starter out. It's pretty tight down there but was easier than removing the intake manifold with lines possibly breaking

 

No i didnt remove it on mine. Just removed the intake manifold and had plenty of room to work. The intake mani took a little finagling to get out. You also do not need to disconnect fuel lines. Just take the lines off of the bracket that holds them in place and move them over a little for more clearance to remove the manifold

heres a couple pics with manifold out

 

Done this on my hilux couple weeks ago pretty straightforward, hour or so. Plenty of room with throttle body and intake manifold off. Crazy how brittle the plastic pipe was, pretty much just fell apart. Pic taken before I replaced the plastic pipe

 

May I ask how old your Hilux is and what type of environment did it live most of its life (hot/medium/cool)?

 

2009 model, I’m in Australia so cold winters and very hot summers

 

Thanks, Welcome to TW from way across the pond.

I own a 2006 and need to get this done for peace of mind. I wonder how common water bypass pipes failures are on the 2nd gen. Tacomas?

 

Seems pretty common on the pre 2010 2TR-FE. I had to replace mine earlier this year on my 2009 w/ 250k miles. Old pipe was extremely brittle and broke a piece of it during removal. Would be good to knock it out for preventative maintenance

 

Thanks bud. I think it’s a very common problem which Toyota acknowledged as they changed the pipe to steel. I’d get it out the way as preventative maintenance. Mines just over 160000km and was brittle and leaking already