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Water Bypass Pipe No.1

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by SMS909, Jan 27, 2012.

  1. Jan 6, 2020 at 11:49 AM
    #161
    Blais03

    Blais03 Guess I'll bring a spare wheel bearing...

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    Yes I believe this was updated in 09 but I am uncertain about that.
     
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  2. Jan 6, 2020 at 11:51 AM
    #162
    Blais03

    Blais03 Guess I'll bring a spare wheel bearing...

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    Yeah I dont know what those bolts are really for :rofl: I think id rather the nuts on studs honestly.

    The eBay ad says "Bolts are to replace the original studs on the thicker flange"

    What I can tell you is what I got worked perfect and I didnt have to remove any studs.
     
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  3. Jan 6, 2020 at 11:55 AM
    #163
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    Yes, i have read though that even up to 2011 model years there were still some plastic ones. I thought 09 was the last year for plastic, but remember seeing someone in here post that their 2011 had the plastic as well
     
  4. Jan 6, 2020 at 11:57 AM
    #164
    Blais03

    Blais03 Guess I'll bring a spare wheel bearing...

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    Like I said, I dont know for certain. All I know is my 08 had plastic.
     
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  5. Jan 6, 2020 at 1:33 PM
    #165
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, wasnt directing that at you, was just also confirming that it can vary.. somewhere in the 09-11 year range :cheers:
     
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  6. Jan 6, 2020 at 2:51 PM
    #166
    1moonshine2

    1moonshine2 Well-Known Member

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    My 2011 did indeed have the plastic line. It was still okay, and hadn't started leaking when I traded the truck on my F150.
     
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  7. Jan 7, 2020 at 10:02 PM
    #167
    pwrslide2

    pwrslide2 Well-Known Member

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    I had a bitch of a time getting the bottom two bolts into the manifol. The stock bolts have nothing that helps get the threads aligned. cheap ass bolts. I ended up putting in some 4G63 exhaust manifold studs I had laying around in there and worked like a charm. easily lined up the manifold and easily got the nuts threaded on with a shallow socket. I was even using pipe thread tape on the OE bolt to keep the in the socket while I tried to thread them in and it was still a pain.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2020
    whatstcp and Blais03 like this.
  8. Jan 22, 2020 at 6:43 AM
    #168
    vermont

    vermont Well-Known Member

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    I follow this particular piece of the job, but have a question about your earlier description of using 2.5 feet of extensions through the wheel well without removing the wheel to remove those two bolts. Could you flesh that out a bit more please? Thanks very much for such a detailed/photographed play by play of this task. Need to do this when it warms up this spring.
     
  9. Jan 22, 2020 at 9:00 AM
    #169
    pwrslide2

    pwrslide2 Well-Known Member

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    I removed the bolts using basic extensions and 3/8 ratchet. I however, could not get the fuckers back in the same way.

    I have no lift and stock tires so theres a good amount of room in there to play around. Just look Iunder there. You should see atleast the on on the bottom left easily and will let you know what to look for with the one in the back right (firewall side) that is harder to find. I couldn't find a picture so hopefully that helps. Maybe I'll snap one later.
     
  10. Jan 22, 2020 at 9:04 AM
    #170
    vermont

    vermont Well-Known Member

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    No need. I can look on my own to see what you are describing. Thanks. I was just puzzled over 2.5 feet of extensions. Not sure I can cobble together more than 12-14 inches, although I'd have to look at what I have in the shop.
     
  11. Jan 22, 2020 at 9:17 AM
    #171
    Robert Hood

    Robert Hood Active Member

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  12. Jan 22, 2020 at 9:27 AM
    #172
    pwrslide2

    pwrslide2 Well-Known Member

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    I dont remember saying 2.5ft but I measure what I have and about 19" with a deep socket will do just fine. You could get by with shorter but the bolts on the shock tower give you a little interferance with your hands. Wobble extension or are jointed extension could your cause.

    As shown below are studs and nuts, not OE bolt heads.

    20200122_101033.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2020
  13. Jan 23, 2020 at 12:52 PM
    #173
    vermont

    vermont Well-Known Member

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    Thanks very much. That's most helpful. Reading the earlier 2.5 ft. comment, I now see the sarcasm that I didn't catch when I asked the question.
     
  14. Jan 23, 2020 at 1:07 PM
    #174
    Blais03

    Blais03 Guess I'll bring a spare wheel bearing...

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    I honestly think I used 2 12" extensions and a 6" extension to use the ratchet outside the fender. No sarcasm at all. Didnt want to pull off the wheel or anything.
     
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  15. Jan 23, 2020 at 1:11 PM
    #175
    vermont

    vermont Well-Known Member

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    Got it. Thank you.
     
  16. Jan 23, 2020 at 1:11 PM
    #176
    pwrslide2

    pwrslide2 Well-Known Member

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    Whatever works! Edit: I didnt pull the wheel. No need with tiny 215/70/15 tires (upgrade plans in work.

    I definitely recommend 8 or so rounds of pipe thread tape on the bolts heads to keep them snug in the socket.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2020
    nickonfire700, Markcal and Blais03 like this.
  17. Jan 23, 2020 at 1:12 PM
    #177
    Blais03

    Blais03 Guess I'll bring a spare wheel bearing...

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    I just used a little electrical tape to hold them on. seemed to work well
     
  18. Feb 2, 2020 at 7:06 AM
    #178
    Taco Shepherd

    Taco Shepherd Active Member

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    Looks like I'm doing the bypass pipe too. When I was under the truck doing some routine maintenance I found a small coolant leak. Traced it up to the weep hole in the water pump. Figured I'd do the thermostat since the truck is 11 years old and it's only a matter of time. Then someone on facebook said to do the bypass pipe too because it will break too. So here I am, $250 in parts and coolant, busted knuckles, and cold as hell working on this truck...
     
  19. Feb 5, 2020 at 7:35 AM
    #179
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    True. I plan to do this job within the next year, and "while I'm in there" I plan to replace the contacts in the starter motor (will be pulling it for access) and also the intake gasket, TB gasket, TB and MAF cleaning, and replace the thermostat as well... since the coolant will be drained anyway. Already have all the parts, just waiting for some better/warmer weather and a free weekend day.
     
  20. Mar 1, 2020 at 3:08 AM
    #180
    RodsInTheTacoma

    RodsInTheTacoma Member

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    When putting in the new bypass pipe, does anyone know if there is a specific orientation for the gasket? - Just wondering, dont have the parts yet, plan on doing this job soon on mine, as it looks like a have a leak.... (pic to come).
     

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