water decarbonization

Thats what my old timer buddy said. He was shocked too at how much i used!! As for the oil, i figured it was a wee bit of condensation, cause nothing showed up on my dipstick. But it was due for an oil change. What about the dtc's being incomplete. Hope and a prayer they change to complete after my drive to and from SF tomorrow???

 

It's normal because it takes several drive cycles to go from incomplete to complete.

The trouble codes when doing this are normal too. You basically created a giant vacuum leak when you popped of the hose, and then the water causes it to stumble and misfire. This is normal. Reset the codes and drive on.

 

Figured as much. Now what about my ltft? Im having a hard time understanding the theory. Ive read a bunch of articles and kinda get the jist, but is it supposed to raise a couple positive points when i rev the engine?

 

It's fine.

 

Does water work? Yep sure does but the problem of carboned up engines pretty much is a thing of the past. The old 396 Chevy engines would get so bad the carbon on the pistons would collide with the cylinder head, gallon or so of water would clean them out.

 

true but these older engines would be helped by decarboning every 35k or so miles where as newer engines today, as you pointed out, run much cleaner. but that said, they still get dirty and decarbonizing them say every 80k miles isn't a bad idea to do at all.

 

I'm about to do mine, but I still want to use the brake booster line. It goes straight into the center/middle of the intake manifold, I'm pretty sure it will feed all cylinders. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. The only difference between that and the PCV location is that the PCV hose is just a little further upstream. Right?

 

Your wrong, look it up on this site. Pretty much under the toyota emblem on the intake manifold (3.4, im assuming that's what you have) it divides into 6 chambers. Use the pcv inlet. This will 100% disperse the water to all cylinder. I wish i had the lin. I think it maybe in the seafoam thread. Look it up!

 

Thanks I just did a quick search and most people were saying use the PCV line, for the 2.7 you use the brake booster. That must be why I was confused LOL

 

I have the 2.7 and the brake booster line will only feed cylibers 1 and 2!! You have to use one of the lines that goes into the intake right behind the TB. That will feed all cylinders on the 2.7

 

All good homie. Thats what this site is all about. I made the same mistake. One day i was fn around and reading the seafoam thread and came across that info....

 

No ethylene glycol, that would be like oil on your windshield. The stuff that keeps it from freezing is methanol. Methanol burns pretty good.

 

To each their own but it's pretty much a waste of time things have changed engine management, fuels, etc. years ago they would get so yucky it would make them spark knock once they got past carbs, throttle body injection and the likes it pretty much is no longer an issue. There have been reports of direct injected engines having carbon problems due to the fact that there is no longer the injected fuel spray to help clean the intake valves (modern fuels) this however can not be corrected with water or any thing else dumped in to the intake because it will not wash the crud off the valves the only thing it will do is make them wet.

 

Some does. I don't know how much of what's sold, but some.

Anti-freeze, or methylated spirits, may be added to a mixture to give the product a lower freezing temperature. But methanol vapor is harmful when breathed in, so more popular now is an ethanol winter mix, e.g. PAV[clarification needed], water, ethanol (or isopropanol), and ethylene glycol.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windshield_washer_fluid#Varieties

And as previously posted:
Windshield washer fluid is a brightly colored liquid made of methanol, a poisonous alcohol. Sometimes small amounts of other toxic alcohols such as ethylene glycol are added to the mixture.
http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002803.htm

 

I put a half gallon of distilled water through the PCV yesterday and ran the shit out of it for about 5 minutes after and it seems to idle a little smoother. I'd say it works. It also doesn't create a big cloud like seafoam either so I'd say it's a better idea to use if you don't wanna ruin your plugs and cats

 

By chance did you pull your plugs after? Im curious if they were clean or dirty. I would assume clean. But stranger things have happened.. I didn't, i got lazy!

 

I didn't pull them. They're practically brand new and I'm not experiencing any misfires or anything. When I seafoamed I never pulled the plugs, but I feel much better about using water.

 

Ya, i think it works just as good, if not better. Mine are new too. it also seems as if my truck idles in drive a lot smoother, finally. Ill be commuting to a new job Tuesday, 80 miles one way (i hate my life), so that will be a real test. But the truck also seems to have a bit more pep. Im sold, plus a gallon of distilled water was only .98!

 

I did the treatment this weekend as well. Used about a quart of windshield washer fluid, plus about a half a can of Seafoam I had laying around.

 

Just did a calculation, I'm getting about 16.9 MPG on the highway going 70-85 mph. I need to do a test where I'm going 70 the whole way but I was in a hurry. Considering I have Load range E 33s and armor and stuff, that's pretty good.