Water outlet corrosion question for 3.4-Follow up

In the process of replacing the original Harrison radiator on my 2003 3.4 / automatic. I purchased her new, and she currently has approx. 143,000 miles on the odometer.
First a big Thank you to Gary (gunny1005) for getting me a great price on a new Toyota radiator.
I'm also replacing the belts, hoses and thermostat. My concern is the water outlet housing where the top radiator hose connects. When I removed the top hose, there was some white powdery deposits where the hose connects. I took some 0000 steel wool and cleaned it off revealing pitting where the hose connects (see pics). The bottom (water inlet) housing has no pitting and looks new.
My concern is will the pitting create a leak due to the new hose not sealing, or is this normal? Just not sure if I need to replace before installing everything.

Brief history....Radiator replaced due to crack on top below inlet. No rust or brown water. I have flushed the system before and only used distilled water & Toyota and/or Zerex Asian Red 50/50 mix.



gunny1005
partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com
parts.camelbacktoyota.com
Gary Miller
Parts Director
Camelback Toyota
Direct 602-200-5532
Fax 602-264-4181
gmiller@vtaig.com

 

Does not look bad enough to replace. I would just go with it. You could put a dab of silicone on it.

 

some corrosion is "normal" and at least this corrosion is on a sacraficial part of the motor... imagine if the heads did this... eek. Check the ground straps/cables. Passenger side head in the rear to the fire wall, Driverside head at the middle of the block and the short negative battery cable to the inner fender well. One other test that you can do is to let the engine warm up then shut it off and let the pressure off of the radiator pressure cap and put a voltmeter in the coolant at the top of the tank on the less than 3 volt DC scale and start her and measure the voltage created by the circulation of the coolant and remember it... in a year do the same thing and see what the difference is. If this voltage has no where to go, meaning bad grounds or crap coolant, it starts to eat the softest materials first. Think sacraficial anodes on boats here.

 

For what it's worth, mine looked pretty similar when I replaced my timing belt a few months ago.

 

Appreciate the feedback guys.
The most confusing thing about all of this is what position the jiggle valve should be at. Thermostat jiggle valve was at the 12 position when removed. Again, this is the factory thermostat. I've read on this forum where the 3.4 should be at the 6 position. I've never had any overheating issues and the Ultragauge reading is usually around 197. The highest I've ever seen it is 201 for a brief period of time in traffic.

 

If you spend a moment or so to search this forum, you will find hundreds of comments regarding the correct orientation of the jiggle valve. Put it so the valve is in the 6 o'clock position.

Or... not.

 

Yeah, I noticed! I'm putting the radiator in this weekend so I've got to make a decision. Like a crow on a fence....don't know which way to fly!

 

Hey Ben, absolutely put your jiggle valve in the 6 o'clock position. I think the fact the original thermostat was placed in the wrong position has to do with the manufacturing of the engine and not bad information shared in the Factory Service Manual. Whoever happened to be on the assembly line for the motor probably didn't know the jiggle valve position made a difference and just slapped it in there any old way. When I pulled my original thermostat out, my jiggle valve was at the 3 o'clock position.

I've personally seen a change in coolant temps with the change in the jiggle valve position. Based off what you reported is your normal coolant temps, you will see a drop in your temp after you change the jiggle valve position but it might not be as much as you'd see if you kept the old thermostat. After I replaced my thermostat, I actually saw a 4 degree rise in my coolant temps. I finally decided one day that i'd compare the old thermostat with the new thermostat. The FSM shows you how to check the thermostat function by putting the thermostat in a pot of water and bringing it up to operating temperature and then measuring how far the valve opens up. I put both thermostats (new and old) into the pot of water and cranked up the heat. What i noticed is the old thermostat was opening further than the new thermostat at the same temperature. This explained why I was running a little hotter with the new thermostat because the old thermostat was offering a higher volume of coolant to flow through the engine to the radiator. I figured that the thermostat spring over time becomes slightly fatigued due to the thousands of cycles of expanding and contracting it goes through. So, I put the old thermostat back in and I was again running at the temp I was running before the thermostat change. I normally run between 188-194 but will go into the high 190's when loaded down with gear, climbing grades and the outside temperature is hot. So, for anyone reading this, don't be surprised your coolant temps rise a little after putting in a new thermostat.

 

Thank you TIM. You da man!

 

I thought it had to be at the 12 o clock position. God damn youtube...

 

from the book...

 

I was a little skeptical that placing the jiggle valve at the 6 position would make a difference, but to my surprise it did! Ultra Gauge reading was approximately 7 to 10dg cooler. Picture below was on the interstate today. Temp stayed between 188 and 190, whereas before it was usually around 197 to 199.

 

I actually started a thread on T4R.org asking if anyone knew the science behind how that little jiggle valve could make such a difference in the coolant temps. There were some pretty good theories but nobody knows for sure. All people have to know is 6 o'clock is the correct position and it definitely makes a difference.