Waterproof Fuse and Relay Boxes - RFRM (10 relay) & RTMR (5 Relay) no Blue Sea/ SPOD

So can I just utilize that empty connector to use as my power. And should I treat the G-R as my + and the W-G my - ??

 

Instead of tapping into the wires at the back of the rheostat, tap into the wires at the back of something that illuminates when you turn on your headlights and its brightness is controlled by the rheostat. For example, your AC Control Assembly, Hazard Switch, Rear Diff. Lock Switch, or Combination Meter. The wires for all of these will be the same color: G-R for positive and W-G for negative. Tap the G-R to pin pin 6 of your switch and W-G to pin 7.

But before you actually splice into any wiring, you can test if it works correctly by unplugging the component. Then simply insert a wire into the connector and connect it to the switch. Test it out. If everything works, then move forward with splicing the wires.

 

You are very much right but everything else is much much harder to get to than the dimmer

 

That might be true. I have a gen 2 and you have a gen 1. However, the back of the AC Control Assembly on mine is very easy. Maybe it's the same for you. Good luck.

 

I'm good to go now!! U posted about the same time as I posted my success. And yeah the second gens are a little easier and has been done before. I don't know of anyone that has done this for first gens. Until now!!!

 

Congratulations!!!!

 

T

Thank you!! I was getting ready to use the 12ga on my forehead I was so frustrated.

 

Thanks to sandman and jiveydude for the help and guidance!!!!!

 

Glad you got it! Grab a beer and relax!

 

On another note, after 200 days, no exaggeration, I am finally expecting my rtmr and switchbacks with most the bells and whistles to arrive in a few days!!! It'll feel so good to finally get my projects done and install my paranoid switch holder and switches, that get this.......drum roll.....dim!!!!! Upon completion of that little tid bit everything is ready for that stinkin relay box! Yahoo

 

It's kinda a trade off of electrons. Insert lots of sciencey talk. Basically more electrons are allowed to pass to a happy positive rather than an unhappy positive. Both sides are positive but one has more of a ground....
#drunkscience

 

Makes sence....

So for confimation here I'll wanna use the G-R as my illumination positive, pin #6 and then W-G as my negative, pin #7....correct?? Then pin #8 I'll still use my "old" ground?

 

Yep

 

What instrument are you using to test your wires? I'm really excited to see a solution, but I want to test it before I hook anything up to it.

 

He's using a test light/circuit tester , they are super cheap and look like this:

 

^^ yip that's what I'm using!!

Madjik did u see the post where I referenced your two wire connector as being for the ignition switch light ring. Pretty certain that's what it is.

 

I did. I don't have an ignition ring but obviously 4runners and some Tacomas did. So it could be that. Do those ignition rings dim?

However I'm looking at that other clip/harness hanging below the dimmer switch (see below for the two pictures). I have no idea what this would go to but it has a green w/red stripe wire, a white w/ green stripe and a white w/black stripe. Maybe what I'm seeing as yellow is just a faded white?

I wonder if I just tap into those?

Also, if I get one of those testers above, how do I use it? I'm assuming if it's a positive wire the tester will light up. What happens if it's a negative? Also how do I know if the dimmer function works by testing it? Will the light on the tester dim too?

 

The ignition ring doesn't dim. Its only on when the door is open anyway.

As far as your unused three wire connector I have no idea what its for. You'll have to get a tester like mine to check them. If they do have dimmable power you certainly can use them!

To use them testers you clip the clip to a ground, anything metal really. Then with the pointy end just probe around with it slightly on connectors, wire ends/terminals or even piercing a wire if need be. Then when the circuit is completed there is a light inside the handle that illuminates and yes that light will dim with the dimmer knob. So for this job that thing is kinda a have to get item. Very useful for all electrical work, 12v that is. Also u can use the tester however u please, as long as the circuit is completed with the tester you r good to go. What I mean by that is u can clip to + or - and use the prob end to find + or -. Sorry if I'm getting confusing. Once u get one u can play with it and its usage will become very obvious.

Just remember that to get your switches to dim you can't use any ole ground, it must be that W-G wire, other wise you'll end up like me with backwards dimming.

Ya know beings the colors of those wires on the 3 pin connector are correct I bet they'll work! Just get that tester, poke pointy end into the slot that has the G-R and then stick something metal into the slot with the W-G that you can clip the other end of the tester to. Then turn on headlights use the dimmer and watch the light inside the handle!!!

 

Alright. I'm going to get one of those testers and go for it.

Do I have to look for a 12v specific one or will any old one from Home Depot, etc work?

Thanks.

 

I don't think I've ever seen one for major voltage. Just use a multimeter for that stuff.

Usually they're like 6-24 volts or 12-24v or what ever. Anyone you find I'm sure will work!! They're cheap too like ten bucks or less...usually.....

If its closer than the depot, any auto parts place would have them, even ole wall mart would pry have a cheapy.