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Waterproof Fuse and Relay Boxes - RFRM (10 relay) & RTMR (5 Relay) no Blue Sea/ SPOD

Discussion in 'Buy / Sell / Trade' started by skygear, Jul 15, 2014.

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  1. Apr 5, 2015 at 4:45 PM
    #1521
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    I like it lol... Next will be a custom logo/emblem
     
  2. Apr 5, 2015 at 6:25 PM
    #1522
    jcdriller

    jcdriller New Member

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    That's what I thought so is this individual running high amperage off fused switches only? I'm confused because I thought anything above ~10amps needed a relay, in the photo there are items at 30 amps in the fuse only slots.

    I'd like the 10 but if I can get away with the 5 it will be easier to fit under the hood of my JKU (I know), so what can this box and contura switches handle without relays?

    4u3y7y5e_f63c7cbadef37f17960b67f89f66e989304275aa.jpg
     
  3. Apr 5, 2015 at 6:28 PM
    #1523
    Balockay

    Balockay Well-Known Member

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    Just look at the build thread
    The switches are rated for 20amps I believe.
     
  4. Apr 5, 2015 at 6:55 PM
    #1524
    velillen

    velillen Well-Known Member

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    The switches are 20amp.

    Of note as well, each fuse slot is rated for max 30a and the entire bus is rated for 80a (i THINK. quick google matched what i thought but it oculd be 100amp....either way its not a huge load). Which shouldnt be a big issue unless you are running tons of stuff at once or something like a big 54" lightbar (rigid's 54" can draw 29amps)
     
  5. Apr 5, 2015 at 6:59 PM
    #1525
    jcdriller

    jcdriller New Member

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    I just went out to the garage and tested a few of my accessories, china 50" light bar only drew 7.8 amps, my china cube lights came in at 2.5 and my front locker was 3.2. These numbers seem really low, but make me think maybe I can get away with the 5 relay unit.

    Can someone verify that I tested these circuits correctly. Multimeter on 20amp setting, remove fuse, plug ends into fuse port and activate switch. Reading is amperage draw correct?

    Thanks for all the help guys!
     
  6. Apr 5, 2015 at 7:28 PM
    #1526
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    In line with the load, correct.
     
  7. Apr 6, 2015 at 7:35 AM
    #1527
    velillen

    velillen Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you did it right. You have to remember to find amps it is Watts divided by power. So a 24 watt accessory on a a 12v system should draw approx. 2amps.

    If I remember right that is.

    Same with there can be a higher initial power draw. So it might be 2a to run those lights but might be a "surge" of 3.5a when you flip the switch.
     
  8. Apr 6, 2015 at 10:25 AM
    #1528
    azchris

    azchris Well-Known Member

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    Wattage is 'power', P=IV where I is the amperage drawn and V is the voltage. In other words, amperage is wattage (power) divided by voltage.

    It's also good remember that voltage can vary between 12-14.4V depending on whether the alternator is running and what the load on the battery is. Rigid, for example, rates all their lights at 13.8V.

    Also, LEDs don't really have much inrush current. That's something you'll see with HID ballasts and things with large capacitors.
     
  9. Apr 6, 2015 at 11:55 AM
    #1529
    arocker

    arocker New Member

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    Hi Mike,

    Sent a PM just a few minutes ago about my order. Please have a look when you get a chance.

    Thanks,
    -adam
     
  10. Apr 6, 2015 at 12:34 PM
    #1530
    Balockay

    Balockay Well-Known Member

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    Just look at the build thread
    Are these supposed to come with power and ground leads?
     
  11. Apr 6, 2015 at 12:56 PM
    #1531
    tacodane

    tacodane The Slow But Getting Somewhere Build

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    Yes they do come with leads
     
  12. Apr 6, 2015 at 1:00 PM
    #1532
    Balockay

    Balockay Well-Known Member

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    Just look at the build thread
    Hmm... Mine didn't. Oh well, not worth waiting 6 months to get them delivered. I'll just make my own.
     
  13. Apr 6, 2015 at 1:11 PM
    #1533
    tacodane

    tacodane The Slow But Getting Somewhere Build

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    Are you referring to the box or switchbacks?
     
  14. Apr 6, 2015 at 1:25 PM
    #1534
    Balockay

    Balockay Well-Known Member

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    Just look at the build thread
    The box
     
  15. Apr 6, 2015 at 1:29 PM
    #1535
    tacodane

    tacodane The Slow But Getting Somewhere Build

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    ccc25781d32af6964f898dc0e550706b_1f4b41d81886afdce667c5aaea724629b5bfe544.jpg

    You can see the power and negative wires marked. Yours don't have those?
     
  16. Apr 6, 2015 at 1:37 PM
    #1536
    Balockay

    Balockay Well-Known Member

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    Just look at the build thread
    No. Or else I wouldn't have said they weren't there.
     
  17. Apr 6, 2015 at 1:38 PM
    #1537
    tacodane

    tacodane The Slow But Getting Somewhere Build

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    Ok man. I'm just asking.
     
  18. Apr 6, 2015 at 1:39 PM
    #1538
    Balockay

    Balockay Well-Known Member

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    Just look at the build thread
    Sorry this whole experience with this product has been a cluster fuck. I'm just ready to have it wires up and be done with it.
     
  19. Apr 6, 2015 at 1:45 PM
    #1539
    tacodane

    tacodane The Slow But Getting Somewhere Build

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    I can understand the frustration. All you need is 6-8ga wire and rings
     
  20. Apr 6, 2015 at 2:05 PM
    #1540
    AZBACKCOUNTRY

    AZBACKCOUNTRY Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys, I was one of the original skybox buyers.

    Take your time and ask questions because I think wiring this up (once you get it) requires some patience and understanding of the box itself. Otherwise things can get real messy.
    No question is stupid or redundant.

    Good luck!
    Az
     
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