Wavy inside tire wear. Bad alignment?

Did the Billy 1.75" front end lift about a year ago. Now I got some wavy inside tire wear. Kind like a mountain range. Drawing a blank on what it's called. Steering wobble little worse too.

Anyway, think alignment is the cause? #'s attached. Had tires balanced twice and rotated, doing it to all of them. Balance was done right after the lift.

 

Tire Cupping?
http://www.tirewear.org/steps-on-how-to-fix-tire-cupping/

 

So I read my toe and camber should be around 0. That sound right?

 

That alignment is good, zero camber is bad on Tacos' they need positive or will have inside wear. The toe is close to zero anyway, but I prefer it to be a touch positive. I like your alignment.

The cupping can be from the harsh spring rate from the preloaded springs.

It can also be due to the nature of the tire, LT tires (assumed here) like weight, and need to be rotated like crazy on our lighter trucks.

Consider rotating in a diagonal cross to encourage better wear, you reverse the feathering and cupping by reversing the rotation.

 

I ran to the same issue with my Duratracs. Once they start to wear, they throw themselves out of balance pretty well. Heavier truck tires sometimes need to be balanced more often that passenger car tires.

Worn balljoints will also cause cupping.

 

Also a bad shock can cause this.

 

rotate your tires? do the chalk test? check your air, and your camber should be closer to 0

 

Is it too late to cross rotate? 20k and just went front to back at 10. They are duratracs and 5100's. So softer springs and more often rotated?

 

Now that I think about it, I think my bridgestone's we're on there for a few thousand miles. And when I took them off put the Duratracs on they were starting to show the same signs.

My steering wheel wobble is also pretty bad from 60 to 65 miles per hour, which is mostly what I drive. Would that have anything to do with the wear?

 

Ok, so i went to a different alignment shop today and they were going to adjust the camber back to 0, but broke a snap on socket trying to loosen one of the camber nuts, rounding the nut in the process, see pic. They thought that Hibdon's may have over torqued it when they aligned it or its seized. Seems weird a 2013 with no visible rust would be seized. Oklahoma truck too. We decided to leave it since it was still in spec and didnt want to make it worse.

Question, should they be loosening it from the nut side or the bolt side? I thought i read once, loosen from the bolt end, but i'm probably remembering something else, what you guys think?

Also, you think a week of daily PB treatments and hammer taps will loosen it enough to be able to get it off? Maybe with one of those extractor sockets? Dont really want to f it up, seeing its in spec, or so they say.
Added pic of front of bolt too. Thanks as always guys!

 

Wtf u can't turn the caster adjuster to loosen the adjuster lol. U should get them to fix it. U can only turn the screw side to loosen it...(the second picture) and if they can't move it they probably didn't lossen enough to let the adjust turn.

 

my suggestion is bring it to a good alignment shop that knows what they are doing.

 

So they should have been loosening it from the front? Pic with skid plate in front of it? I was worried about that. They were able to loosen the back on the others.

F*** I was thinking about saying something when he was showing it to me, but figured, what do I know. Just I light shade tree mechanic.

 

If the guy aligning your vehicle doesn't even know how to properly loosen the adjusters...you're better off without him.

You can just loosen the adjuster the proper way and probably not have to replace the whole thing, but they SHOULD fix their fuck up.

 

Yes the skid side.

 

Jeebus! That is why we can't have nice things. I think they should be replacing those buggered up adjusters on their dime.

 

Jesus. My luck. If I break the bolt head side free, will the adjuster back all the way off, so I can just thread a new one on?

Guess I should have went back to Hibdons

 

Believe this is the part i need, that look right?

$28 Genuine Toyota 48452-35020 Suspension Adjust Cam

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-48452-35020-Suspension-Adjust/dp/B00GKHB1SW

 

Weld a cheap 1/2" socket onto that nut and replace it. That would drive me nuts.

 

Its driving me crazy just thinking about it. I'm having a hard time getting anything done at work, as you can see, lol. All i want to do is get out their and get this thing done right. Bad thing is, i wont be able to mess with it till tomorrow or this weekend. Then i will have to take another half day next week and go back to this shop. Then i will have to go out into their shop and show them how to properly loosen them, assuming they're not seized. I plan to just stay out in the shop with them.

This is why i do most all the work i can on my truck, including oil.

I once got my oil changed on my wife's old Scion at the dealer. They pulled up to give it to me and i said, "hey, you see that oil running out the bottom of my car?" It took them an hour to figure out they had doubled up on the o-rings. So ya...