Wedge Campers & Assorted Oddities

I have the same setup but with optima batteries since I get pro deals on them. Super simple. Super cheap. Plus, you can jump yourself if you kill your starting battery. I've run my fridge, phones and speakers for days and the second battery hardly shows any drain. 4 days easy without starting my truck to recharge off my alternator. Plus, I move just about everyday and the battery will charge anyway.

 

Could always just use jumper cables rather than an isolator that can lock them together again.... i never travel without cables.

 

So if I'm understanding the wedge camper hard top setup right you have to climb over your partner to get in and out?

 

This is the one I got off of Amazon. I've had it for a year and a half and its worked exactly as advertised. You just have to push the override button on top and it runs both batteries at the same time.

WirthCo 20092 Battery Doctor 125 Amp/150 Amp Battery Isolator

 

I agree. Can't beat their fuse blocks though. So clean.

 

10 AWG is pretty small for that application, especially given the cable run.

 

I agree. I use 10awg to run my fuse block from my battery or my fridge straight to the battery. The connection between the batteries and charger is much more substantial. Something around the size of jumper cables.

 

I use 4AWG as well, it's a good compromise between capacity and size. Better to do it once and do it right then re do it - I did 10AWG originally, then 8, and finally settled one 4.

 

Most solar controllers only charge @ 20A.

The CTEK 250S may be fine with your 10awg wire depending on how long your run is per this page from the manual. Not sure where your plan is to keep the battery/controller/fuse panel/etc.

 

I do my best thinking, usually for work, on my morning run. This morning a little slogan camp up for the Vanagond Drifter we have on order:

"Who doesn't love a wedgie?"

Made me laugh. Perhaps not a commercial byline, but still entertaining IMHO.

 

Saw my first Earthcruiser camper today..looks really heavy and is crazy high up. He looked like he was on stock tires and maybe stock height suspension vs my 33s and still was a few inches taller than me.

Different strokes for different folks I guess. I'd rather have a FWC if I had to choose between that or a FWC.

 

That's what I think when I see that, lots of wasted space in the fenders/ wheel well areas so why not get rid of them? Doesn't look like an easy or practical process to try and put in, or take out, of the bed.

 

300-700lbs and $22,000

 

Agreed - given their background I don’t know why they didn’t just make a replacement flatbed/box for the trucks. Now that’s a niche market I haven’t seen filled.

 

I don't understand it. The size, like the FWC, is disadvantageous in the Tacoma platform size. That would be a great setup for a Tundra or F150 but it's ultimately too big even for a well built truck.

 

Even on a trail limo a Drifter fits the overall size of the truck much better

 

"Too big" was inclusive of weight. Hells Revenge would be interesting with one.

 

I obviously have nothing to gain, and more to lose, by stating that heavy slide-ins can be wheeled. But they can with some careful spotting.


Photos by @552Jrider


That was on stock 3.73 gearing, 6-speed manual, Dakars, and Cooper ST pizza cutters. Weighing in at 6,650 lbs.

Now on 35’s, Alcan custom springs, and 4.88’s, it would be much easier.

But I have more interior space with the Drifter, no lost storage between the camper and the bed, and way more headroom. And obviously more useable power. I will always have a soft spot for slide- ins, but the extra weight definitely taxes the Tacoma.

The side clearance is the main issue, which is why our sides are not vertical. Any off-camber line around trees is nerve racking. The thin aluminum skin was no match. And with my old Flippac, wheeling around trees and low branches with fiberglass was scary. Especially with that $35k GZL pricetag.

Ours took a full flop and was lived in for 1.5 months after. I’ve slept in the same camper (Zero) for 6 nights in the past month and @tyfoon11 just spent 2 nights in it. Without me unfortunately



The Drifter can take a hit.

With a Drifter or GFC, full Goosegear interior, and a fridge, here’s what you could do with the cost difference:

• Long travel
• Regear
• Armor (skids, sliders, front and back bumpers)
• Dirtyfives
• Maybe supercharger

Or another 6 - 18 months on the road if you’re living the dream.

But for some, the slide- in works great and I can definitely appreciate them. It’s awesome that people have so many options these days.

 

as long as it's not atomic

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mdp_yBDeflE

 

These were posted in the GFC thread and I thought it would be inappropriate to reply about a competitor there BUT just want to clear up a couple (unintentional) factual errors.

1. Drifter roof is aluminum but there are panels on the inside that insulate it. I don’t have a picture handy because I covered mine in carpet but I have had mine up in 100+ heat and it’s fine. At no point do ever touch or see the bare aluminum roof.

2. The bed panels aren’t made out of plywood. It’s some lightweight composite - I believe the first one made used bamboo but that’s not on the production ones. This is the same material as on the roof, and I’m sure @Iggy or @Overlanerd can comment more. It’s really quite lightweight and easy to move.