Weekend Project on 18 TRD OR LB

The SPC's are a good choice. JBA's were slightly less expensive the only reason I chose those. Only the frame mounting bracket for the rear shock reservoir comes with the kit (not pictured in the kit). I couldn't see spending the extra $$ for the shock body clamp. One of the annoying things about the kit for me was the carrier bearing drop kit and diff. drop kit needs better washers. Just pick up a handful of 3/8 to 1/2" washers from the hardware store for the skid plate spacers and the new CB spacer bolts. You'll most likely need additional washers for spacers to help align your CB to prevent vibrations in the drive line. Another thing is you have to do your own research on installing everything. Granted, the guys at Wheeler's were very helpful whenever I would call and ask questions, but I spent about half my install time watching YouTube tutorials. Bang for buck it's hard to beat the price. Now that I see the truck stance I probably would have opted for the standard leaf pack instead of the HD (I have a solid 4" of lift even with my topper and tools loaded) but maybe that'll settle with time. At lest it doesn't squat when I pull my boat or any other trailer.

 

Regarding the washers, did they rust right away? I'm guessing you had wheeler's assembler the front shocks for you. They told me it would be at the 5/6 notch which is the highest setting and a 3 inch lift with that to match the rear. How's the ride at that setting. The only thing holding me back with the kit is that it's mainly a 3 inch lift with the rear leaf packs. I'd be happy at 2 inch and leaving more room for the shock travel. The fronts are adjustable. The rear leaf pack are kind of adjustable. Wheeler's told me I could remove some of the leaves to reduce the lift, but I feel that might compromise ride quality and performance.

 

Washers were not a rust issue, just not the correct size for the job. Yes, they assembled the springs and shocks for me. Ride is a bit stiff but I like it. You feel the road but big pot holes, speed bumps and washboard roads are all sucked up by the shocks. Tight more than stiff is what I feel. Handles great in curves. And I do have mine set at 5/6 in the front. Once I get everything dialed in and settled I may try removing a leaf from the rear pack. I just had to do some adjusting to the leaf center pin to accommodate a 2.5 degree shim so I'm kind of done dealing with my rear axle and leaf packs for now. Damn things are heavy...

Oh, speaking of rust, the U-bolt flip kit top plate is NOT painted. So if you want to prevent it rusting make time to have it powder coated or prime and paint yourself. The bump stop plate is zinc coated so that'll be ok for a while. I was lazy and just let it go. Next time I have to deal with the leaf packs I may take the time and have them painted or powder coated.

 

Curious if you ever got rid of the vibration completely? Also, what settings do you have those 6112s on. Isn’t 3” above the advertised lift even on the 6th settings?

 

Vibes are "pretty much" gone. I added a 2.5 degree shim in the rear and it's hardly noticeable due to the Cooper AT3's, which are aren't too bad. Not sure if it's settling in or I'm getting used to it. But it's way better for sure. I was a solid 3" in front at the beginning but I think it's settled about a half inch. Haven't put a tape on it but will do soon. but really want to drop the rear an inch. It's still right at 4" of lift. Just have to find the time to call AllPro and see if I can take a leaf out or something. Kind of wish I held out for Icon RXT to be honest...