Welding Nuts into Access Cab Rain Gutter

So, I am curious about the possibility of welding nuts into the rain gutter channel of my access cab. Have seen post like this one discussing putting yakima landing pads into the factory threaded holes in DC trucks. The access cab does not have these factory mount points, so what are y'all fine peoples thoughts on just welding in some nuts?

I figure that they're hidden by the gutter rubber strip anyway, so they don't need to be pretty. Not sure how strong they would be either, so that's a concern as well... I know very little about welding, but I know our roofs are made of steel, as a magnet sticks to mine. I have a friend who would do this for me for free and I hate the towers that grip into the door frame and f up the paint job.

 

Welding can eff up a paint job too. And harder to undo. Tread lightly here.

 

True, its a pretty tight little channel, do you think a skilled welder would be able to contain the heat in such a way that it didn't affect the paint outside the rain gutter

 

Could also use a Nutsert. No heat or warp to metal. Don't need to paint either. I used similer ones (I have the press tool) to these when I did a light bar on a old taco. I just drilled the pilot hole, used Rtv around it to seal out water, then pressed in.

http://www.eurosportacc.com/product...nt=241817535&gclid=CIamxtDoxs8CFUONfgodywwHsQ

 

I wouldn't weld anything to the roof personally but if it's a rack you're looking into, what about the Prinsu rack? I believe that attaches with rivnuts on acces cabs.

 

Hmm, that's a really good idea, I have never seen anything quite like that. Its like a t-nut for metal! So I am assuming there is some amount of space between the bottom of the channel and the interior roof? I don't wanna seen bolts when I look up from the drivers seat, haha.

 

Nutsert FTW here. Would never consider welding in the channel myself

 

I am actually looking to bolt a landing pad down. I have a large canoe and the two bars on my shell are too far back to support the bow, as a result it rubs on the roof of my cab. I just want a bar that I can quickly take on and off.

These guys -

 

Yup nutsert or rivnuts. Only way I'd do it.

 

Give Rack Attack a call. I know they are not local but they may have a solution. I know on the double cab they have a Rhino Racks track that is basically riveted into the drip rail. Then you can add whatever towers/legs you want.

 

I put the nutcerts in my access cab to mount a light bar. Check out pics here....

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/access-cab-curved-50-light-bar-setups.346493/#post-9570547


just pick out what size you need.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...vqmt=e&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_153r9rwmj_p

 

Thanks Squirt! I am going the rivnut/nutsert route for sure. Could you tell me how much room you had in there? Or how long your nutserts were? I am thinking that I want the longest possible nutsert to accommodate the longest bolt possible. Or do you think there is an ideal length?

Also, still no moisture problems I assume?

 

There isn't too much room in there. nutsert only grabs as thick as the roof sheet metal is. Don't forget, I think there is head airbag in there too. I also put too much pressure when drilling and went through my headliner one side little bit. Just take your time and maybe put tape on the drill bit so it will only go down so far. I also used marine grade white caulk to seal the nutserts, no issues yet after a year or so.

 

Rhino Rack makes a ditch mount system that works perfectly. They make a track system for the double cab, but there is a ditch mount bracket that does exactly what you are wanting to do then you can use the Yakima Landing Pad 6, The Thule 3114 Fit kit, or the Rhino Rack RLT600 quick release tower. The thread pitch is the same on all of these options. Clean look and super stout. It's what I do for a living. This is a better option than welding or just putting rivnuts into the ditch. You also want to be careful, because the Airbag canister is under the ditch as well...... Don't want to hit that thing.

 

Wow, thank you. I like that idea quite a bit more. Is this what you're talking about?
I already use Rhino racks and I really like them! I like that this is meant for the application I have in mind.

 

That is it... just make sure to get the correct width bracket as they make two sizes. If you have any questions, call Rhino Rack. They have great customer service and will be happy to help. You will be happy with it.

 

i have the Rhino Ditch mount set up. I like the adjustability and selection of accessories. Most of all, I like how easy it is to remove. Simply unlock and lift the covers up on the towers then you can lift the cross bars and what ever is attached to them off the truck for storage.

 

I have a better option for you....
Don't weld, screw, or otherwise attach anything to the roof. Welding or screwing anything in, WILL result in rust. That's a guarantee. The last thing you need on any vehicle, is providing any kind of access for the elements to begin causing rust.

Instead, find a truck rack, like this; http://www.tdotperformance.ca/smitt...gle_shopping&gclid=CI7FpdK_2s8CFQUehgodNzcOng
** of course, you'll need one that is the right size for a Tacoma.
These things will just hook on to your bed rails (or bed floor for the super heavy duty kind), and extend over the cab. Even the bed rail type will be *considerably* stronger than anything you can stick to your roof, and will NOT damage your roof in any way.

 

Here are a few that should work for Tacoma;

Universal steel: http://www.discountramps.com/universal-truck-rack/p/UPUT-RACK-V2/
(they picture it over a Nissan Frontier, so should fit no problem)

Universal aluminum: http://www.discountramps.com/titan-aluminum-truck-rack/p/UPUT-RACK-ALUM/

Custom aluminum: http://www.discountramps.com/ryder-rack-toyota-tundra-tacoma/p/RR-Tacoma/

I really like the custom one, but its WAY more expensive than the universals.