Weldtec designs Tacoma long travel

Yea, the spindle looks the same but the UCA looks like its missing the ability to attach to the upper uniball.

 

I pondered that too lol

 

When I looked up the kit on the weldtec website it says it’s set up for the j-arm. So I’m asumming the a-arm was after the fact. And I have don’t have any clue what thickness the metal is on the spindle. Your guess would be as good as mine haha. I have billet tie rods for it already but I am going to have solo Motorsports correct the tie rod brackets on the spindle with 3/16 metal. If I decide to run bypass later on I’ll have to have the j-arm made. Probably won’t use billet though.

 

I hope these picture answer your questions. If I doesn’t I’ll try again haha

 

Intresting hardware. Make sure its all Grade 8 .

 

Ive been buying grade 10 from mckenzies off road

 

Ah I wasent aware they had that I thought they just had that f911 stuff. Eh Gr8 is perfectly fine. So whats your plan with the front end after fixing the spindles?

 

Have to have my shocks rebuilt, valves and correct spring rate then save some money and shop around to see what it’s going to cost to install and save some mo way for that. Then have to figure out what to do with the rear end. Any thoughts?

 

I can rebuild and revalve shocks for you. Whats the spring rate on em? Yep finding a good place is always tricky also. Usually for like generally most guys , the Deaver H70 pack "which is farrr better than F67", 12" Shackles over the frame at 52.5" spread with some 2.5/3.0 16" or 18" bypasses and A T100 or Tundra axle is your best option. Without getting into the deep end of linking it. Or if you pay some more I personally like the Giant 64 leaf spring kit works. But putting that on a 1st gen truck is a little more work and money. A properly tuned H70 pack with bypasses works amazingly.

 

They were off the front of a class one car. And the springs rate is 600/800 and I was thinking tundra axle also. I’ll need some weight in the back to run the H70 pack won’t I?

 

Ah I see. Yeah email King and get some suggestions for Spring rate, are they 12"? For the 10"s everyone does 500/600. But its a smaller upper tender coil. It would probably be 600/600 with the 12's. Weight does help make it feel better and keeps the rear end down but some guys get too crazy wanting to add all this weight and the leafs just get lower and they don't like it. I have the H70 with two spares and it works very good but now I have to modify the leaf pack to get it up higher where I have enough up travel at ride height and match the front. Id say one one or two spares and other necessities and that's it.

 

The guy that sold them to me said they were 10s. So if you do them I’d say just valve them to what yours are at or maybe a tad stiffer cause that kit is 6.5 wider per side. Shoot ma a price. I’ll have to have the springs taken off anyway s. I do t have a spring compresser

 

Got snore goodies at camburg today

 

This looks like a questionable design. I assume those drilled/tapped tabs are mild steel. It doesn't matter what bolt you use if the "nut" material is far weaker than the bolt. For a 6" over kit this looks sketchy.

 

We will see how it hold up. Blitzkrieg had kinda the same design for the billet ranger arms. The upper arm is not under that much stress ass opposed to the lower. It should be ok.

 

Its totally fine. From the looks of it , its either billet or super thick 3/8"to 1/2" Steel.

 

Looks like OP isn't feeling it anymore:

https://classifieds.race-dezert.com/ad-details.php?category=77&adid=137614

 

Just weighing my options haha

 

kinda Want something a little more basic

 

Wise idea if you don't have all the stuff to fix it yourself imo.