Well I guess I need a cylinder head rebuild?

Hoping to get an OEM kit with exact same parts as this:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=949253&cc=1278929&jsn=10451

 

Awesome! Yeah I was pleased with their product and service. Great customer service too. Plus they were the cheapest around. Cant beat em as far as I am concerned.

Ok, valve grind gasket kit comes with: Head gasket, both intake gaskets, both exhaust manifold gaskets, EGR gaskets, throttle body gaskets, valve cover seal, spark plug tube seals, valve seals, timing chain tensioner gasket, new injector O-rings, I think distributor O-rings. Thats just off the top of my head. Look at the picture in the link I sent you, all the included pieces should be in bold. It had everything I needed except the injector spacer cups but those were like $20 from the dealer.

 

OEM valve grind has all that except for timing chain cover gaskets. But you dont need those unless you are doing the timing chain too.

 

This dealer has a great deal on the same kit and he has great reviews, might go with this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-3RZ...820397&hash=item25e65aa6cb:g:WhYAAOSw6GJaHYRX

 

Here is the exact kit I got.

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~kit~engine~valve~grind~04112-75091.html

That kit actually looks pretty good. Cross ref the part number over to Toyota Parts Deal and make sure it has everything you want. They have better parts illustrations on TPD so you can see exactly what you will get. For $105 thats a good deal.

 

Yep, I'm going to message him and make sure no parts have been removed. It's the same part number as the kit from TPD though.

 

Ok put the part # into toyotapartsdeal.com, here is the pic of everything included in the Ebay kit. If that has everything you need grab it, $105 is a good price.

 

Sure does, thanks again man!

 

No problem. Let us know how it goes.

 

Any updates? Get the new head yet?

 

I have all parts except the head:

-head bolts
-fuel injector spacer cups
-valve grind gasket kit
-bolt for holding sub-gear on exhaust cam shaft
-toyota seal pack
-exhaust manifold

The head arrives in the mail tomorrow. I'm pulling the current head tomorrow night and then putting the new one on Saturday morning, so we'll know then. I went OEM for all parts other than the exhaust manifold. Got one off of Rock Auto made by Ultra Power. Figured it would get the job done.

 

Good deal! Looks like you have everything you need! If you dont already have one I highly recommend getting a torque wrench, actually I consider it mandatory especially doing engine work like that. Some auto parts store will rent them to you cheap for a day or 2. Also helps to have a really long breaker bar or cheater pipe to bust them head bolts loose because they are TIGHT. Also helps when torquing to yield when reinstalling.

Aftermarket exh. manifold should be totally fine, its really just the internal stuff that I like OEM.

Oh yeah, one last thing...do you have an OEM service manual?

 

Check this out for OEM service manual.

http://web.archive.org/web/20101127014333/http://ncttora.com/fsm/1996/96_repair_searchable.pdf

Either there or here...

http://web.archive.org/web/20110102225436/http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/

I recommend this by far over Haynes or Chilton manuals. they are ok, but nothing beats OEM toyota manuals.

 

I do have the service manual and I do have a torque wrench. Aside from some rags and fast orange wash, I'm good to go. I do have to go get insulators for the fuel injectors. I thought the valve grind gasket kit came with them, but it did not.

I started the job last night with the little time I could. Here's where I'm at:

 

Looking good! One thing I should mention that helped me a lot is to set the engine to TDC on #1 cylinder before doing anything to the engine. Just leave it set at TDC #1 (easy to tell with the valve cover off, just make sure the cam lobes are pointing up) and leave it there the whole time. Dont turn the motor unless absolutely necessary. Just makes it a little easier without having to worry about the lower sprocket and stuff

Also, I used some zip ties and before removing the timing chain sprocket I zip tied the chain to the sprocket. That way its all lined up for installation and you dont have to worry about the chain falling down, etc. See attached pic.

Also once the head is off I recommend pulling the drain plug for the block and draining all the antifreeze out. Makes it a lot easier to get the block deck spotless and clean...otherwise coolant splashes all over.

 

Thanks for the tips! I already drained all of the coolant out, so we're good there. Yes, that's what I've read is step one after taking off valve cover, set #1 to TDC. I'm having a real hard time removing the EGR pipe and the power steering pump. Both are a pain. Any tips for those? I got the two nuts off of the EGR pipe where it connects to the intake manifold, but the exhaust manifold nuts are a different story. They are really tucked down there, big pain.

Really like the zip tie idea for the chain as well, definitely going to do that.

 

Ok, what I recommend (and should have told you this a few days ago) is to get some good penetrating oil like Kroil or Liquid Wrench and soak the exh. man studs and EGR pipe bolts a couple times a day. Just totally soak every exhaust or EGR bolt in penetrating oil. I did this and didnt have to use any heat, and didnt break a single stud.

I think I used a 12mm wrench with cheater extension to get those EGR bolts loose but now I dont remember. That or maybe a small 3/8 ratchet and socket with cheater pipe.

P/S pump is a pain, yeah. I used a big screwdriver jammed through the holes in the pulley to hold it, and then a 1/2 drive ratchet with cheater bar to bust that one loose. Might take a few tries, its tight. I dunno if you can get an impact in there..otherwise that might work to get it off.

 

Ok nice. Luckily I was able to get all of the bolt on the exhaust manifold off pretty easily with my impact drill. But The EGR is at such a strange angle, might just break it off since the new studs are on the new exhaust manifold, doesn't matter much if I break it. I'll hit it with some penetrating oil first though.

 

It looks like I’ve found the issue. Burnt exhaust valve on cylinder 2 as you can see in the picture. The cylinder wall within the head looks great with little carbon build up and pistons are in great condition as well.

So after this replacement, I’m imagining it will run like a charm. Putting the new head on in the morning.

 

That valve actually doesent look too terrible, have seen some before where it looks like someone used a torch to cut a gouge out of the valve.

How did removal go? Pretty straight forward right? Its not that bad a job really.