well. you ready for the lights to go out again? and non ethanol fuel?

Mostly the convenience, I have two neighbors with a auto setup. I was thinking yesterday about how many Hondas you could wear out to pay for a Generac system. One neighbor I think paid a little over $2500, didnt need a 8 or 10kw system.
Plus side, if someone is elderly or unable to start a Honda or the like, doesn't have to do anything. May be the norm the next 10 years.
Duane

 

Converting my generator to propane is one of the best things I've ever done. I used a motorsnorkle kit:

https://www.motorsnorkel.com/

I have 2 100lb propane tanks in my shed, they aren't that expensive:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Worthington-Pro-Grade-100-lb-Empty-Propane-Tank/1080473

Cost about $85 to fill, I can put them in the back of my truck by myself (barely when full). A 100lb tank will run my 7.5kw generator for about 36 hours. I also collect 20lb tanks from neighborhood trash and exchange them at big box stores to get new ones......

On gasoline: even if you run the carb dry with a fuel shutoff valve, you need to drain gasoline from the float bowl.

The engine is the most important part of the generator. You pay more $$ for Honda engines because they last. Harbor freight generators don't have Honda engines.....

Back feeding your panel works but it's dangerous as hell. One wrong move and you can burn your house down or kill a line tech. Too much liability. Using a transfer switch is the proper way to power your house. I have a reliant transfer switch:

http://www.reliancecontrols.com/ProductDetail.aspx?310A

Nice thing about them is that you can hot switch between em. backup and mains without having to reboot everything on the circuits. Good for testing, and switching back once power is back on. Second plus; inlaws or wife can operate backup power with little instruction or expertise. NFW would I let my FIL try and backfeed if I'm out of town!!

Stay safe

 

You could still hook up any electric start generator and add auto-start on top of an automatic transfer switch. Typically the price of the Generac (and similar) setups do not include the parts for the:

• transfer switch
• wiring (for power, for charging the battery, and remote control panel)
• any req'd permitting
• concrete pad
• labor
• random BS

--- Edit

w/ that said this is pretty cheap w/ a transfer switch for $1,999

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Generac...-Amp-Automatic-Transfer-Switch-6998/306235149

 

For anyone w/ well, septic, or other pumps.

https://www.raymondinnovations.com/collections/soft-starters/products/gs11




you can either wiring a soft starter capacitor, or buy a pre-made box like this.

puts less strain on smaller generators.

 

So I'm going to ask this here since there's some apparently generator knowledgeable people... and the owners manual for the AiPower Costco generators isn't good, or clear. I searched the web, watched a shitload of videos, and I still got nothing.

One 1600W / 2000W peak generator has enough ass to run my fridge and TV and some lights even on eco mode. Cool. But... my furnace won't quite run right (gas furnace, electric blower). The blower will run but only intermittently and it won't put out heat. Almost like the generator doesn't have quite enough ass to get the furnace to kick all the way on. I assume the furnace draws just a hair more than the 1600W / 13.3 amps that one generator can produce.

If you run two generators in parallel, which should give 3200W normal / 4000W peak, so 26.6 amps, it appears that the only outlet that will work is the 30A RV style outlet on one generator (I haven't tested this though, so maybe all outlets work?). Can I run higher amperage 110V devices (like the furnace blower, for example) through this plug using a adapter like this? Basically a 30amp male RV connector to two 15/20amp female connectors.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-G3020Y.html

If you can't run an adapter on the 30a RV outlet of the generator, what's the point of piggybacking two generators and only being able to use that outlet if you don't have an RV?

 

It depends on the plug on your furnace.

You can also make your own parallel plug, just connect the hot and neutral in parallel and the grounds into the ground.

You could also look one post above your post and get a soft start capacitor to soak up the inrush current requirements of your furnace.

 

Furnace is the small sort that sits in the top half of a closet. Plug is a standard household 3 prong 110V.

I may not understand your answer - I have working knowledge of household electrical but no 'hands on' experience with running generators or running stuff in parallel. The generators will connect in parallel using cords provided with them, but in parallel they only power one 30A RV outlet on one generator. If I run an adapter from that outlet to convert it to a standard style household outlet, can I plug in things like my furnace without issue?

I feel like if that's possible then I wouldn't need a soft start capacitor anyway because the furnace should be able to be run on 3200W / 26 amps, no?

 

Yes, those generators should come with what is needed to parallel them. The cord you linked should work, unless the starting current of the induction blower motor is higher than 26.6 amps. Check label and see. Motor might say 4-5 amps, but starting current much higher. Being able to run the motor and having enough current to start the motor are two different things. Beware of using soft start circuits on inductive loads..... High potential to release smoke.

That said, connecting two baby generators is Rube Goldberg. Just buy a bigger generator. Specially if AC electrical theory isn't your forte......

 

You'll still be limited to 20a with this adapter, just use the household outlet on the gen in parallel.

 

Understood, thanks.

 

You all should be looking to install transfer switch's since they are saying this will be a regular occurrence for some years.

 

Well, speaking strictly for myself:

I rent and

I don't need to run much of anything - the fridge a few hours a day, some lights, the TV and wifi are nice creature comforts, charge some small devices - all stuff one small invertor generator can do.

It would be nice to run the furnace but it's not a deal breaker; I've been plenty cold in my life and I haven't died from it yet, plus I got good camping gear that works even better than intended when you're indoors. We have a gas water heater so we have hot water (until the 'G' park of 'PG&E' decides to join the fuckfest). The stove is electric but a propane camp stove has been working great for us, so IDGAF about trying to power a 220V stove.

I bought 2 of the 1600/2000W invertors not specifically to link in parallel but more to have some redundancy of one fails, and to have one available to loan out as needed. The ability to link in parallel is nice if I can figure out how the fuck to squeeze more amperage out of the damn things by doing it.

 

No dice, the household outlet even in parallel only puts out just under 15a; it has to be the RV outlet if you want to get more amperage. Just tried it out.

 

Pono8506

How are you setup right now? Running extension cords to each individual appliance?

 

Not exactly.

I combined the items I want to run on one circuit using extension cords (of proper gauge, and neatly hidden) within the house that those items plug into. Example - the fridge and a lamp in the kitchen are on one cord. The living room with TV, lamps, and wifi is on another cord that plugs in to the wall right next to the kitchen cord.

This way I don't have to move stuff around and string a cord every time there is an outage. I can just set the generator in position, unplug a cord and plug it into a different socket, and I'm all set.

Not the gold standard of setups but it is simple and keeps me from having to move furniture and crawl around in the dark. I figure if we do it 10 times a year that'll be easier than buying a larger generator and spending money on someone else's house.

Also I believe the furnace issue is a ground issue in the sense that the furnace - which is brand new - will not run if it senses it is unplugged from ground so I'm building a jumper to test that theory.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbvHjX1Of4g

 

Wow. Power is on!

Drained fuel. Changed oil. I’ll fog the cylinder this weekend.

Screwed in a magnetic dipstick.

 

Pimping out your generator I see.

Did you get an external marine tank yet?

 

Give me time.