What Chainsaw do you run?

Well thats a childhood escapade I had not heard of. We used to walk a couple of miles up river (Missouri) on the RR tracks and shoot at anything and everything with our 22's, and smoke the shit out of cigarettes I would swipe out of my Dad's neighborhood grocery store. Most every afternoon about 3-4 there would be a MOPac freight train come into Jeff City and stop for about 20 to 30 minutes. It would stop (conveniently) with its end near the spot we would finish our "walk" . After the train guys would go by checking for "hotboxes" (overheated bearings -I think) the train would start up again and we would jump on the boxcar ladders and get a free ride back to where our walk had started. Several times the train gained more speed than we had bargained for and the "exit" could be "tricky" to say nothing about dangerous. I think back these days and think -THAT WAS A DUMB IDEA! One close friend came inches away from losing a foot.
WE survived!

 

What 2T oil you guys using??

 

You asking about 2 stroke oil for mixing up gas? I've been using Stihl HP Ultra.

 

https://www.amsoil.com/p/saber-professional-synthetic-2-stroke-oil-atp/?zo=515729

 

I have been using the "standard Stihl 2 stroke mix for years in all my engines. With the new saw I got, I bought a 6-pack of the synthetic to get the extra year warranty on the 261 cm.

 

I’m about to mix up a new batch. Just about out of the canned fuel. 2 gallons don’t go far ;-). I have vpracing oil that I’m going to use which I had gotten over the summer. I only due a gallon at a time With 89 octane nonethenol .

 

My new to me 038 always leaked bar oil, I thought it was a seal. Bought new fuel and oil tank caps on Amazon and the problem solved itself. I think the O rings were shot on both...smelled of gas all the time too.

Still a bitch to start in the cold, even with a replacement carb.

 

Stihl Synthetic. Check with your authorized Stihl dealer: there was a recall on some of the oil and gas tank caps. They'll replace them for free.

 

Buy one of these saws if you have money to waste. Only problem is according to the seller, maybe you should not use them -- only for your "wall display" of old/new saws. The damned 044 does not even come with a bar!!?? I could only imagine my wife's response if I told her I was starting a collection of chain saws to display!

STIHL 026 Chainsaw NEW OEM VINTAGE CHAINSAW - Collectible NOS Never Fueled Saw | eBay

Stihl 044 Chainsaw NEW In Box OEM VINTAGE CHAINSAW -Early Model NOS LOOK! RARE | eBay

 

https://youtu.be/9WDaTwEwhTk


I was looking at the Dewalt 12” 20V chainsaw, I like how light it is and it has good reviews. I don’t own a battery powered CS, but I can see the benefits of carrying one on the ATV.

 

I say this to myself all the time!! Except when I’m on the atv, I usually have all the goods with me anyway with the trailer behind it

 

I have a stihl but I use my battery powered ryobi most.

 

I just picked up the 2 pack of the bigger battery’s in the ryobi brand. 80.00 . Not bad. Looking to grab the 18v ryobi chainsaw when it’s on sale again ... I think

 

A freehand file is the best tool.

 

I love this tool...

 

I found the larger battery came with the leaf blower, and was CHEAPER than the battery by itself. So do a little looking. You may find the same deal I did.

 

I've got a Homelite XL w/10" bar I bought, probably late '70s. Waaay over powered trimmin' little SOB!
Got a Stihl MS 250 a few years ago. Got all my occasional saw duties covered.
Seriously thinking about adding the Craftsman 20v pole trimming saw to my arsenal. I could see that coming in handy.

 

Iv used the 20v black and decker pole saw and worked very well.... the more I used it the more I wanted to get the higher branches which meant ladder time and I said.... no thanks

 

You guys know about the depth gauge filing trick to make your saw cut faster? This part of Texas is all tree farms for industrial logging, corporate style. We are surrounded by tree farms and many of the people here make their living in the logging industry. One of these loggers showed me this trick. Time is money to them and they have found ways to speed a cut. One of them is to file the depth gauge to allow the cutting blade to bite deeper each trip across the wood. It is easy: File ONLY ONCE across the highest point on each depth gauge on the chain. DO NOT file twice. If you take too much off by filing a second time it will cut real fast, but it will vibrate so bad you will throw the chain away. Filing it once the length of the file makes it throw thumbnail-thick wood chips! Give it a try. I was amazed how much just one firm trip the length of the file across the gauge increased the cutting speed.



The guys that are really out there on the edge with their saws increase the rpms and raise the powerband of the engines. He said they buy special performance reeds for the reed blocks and do some port work, i.e., knife-edge the transfer ports and raise the exhaust ports. Surprising to me, he said they do not increase the compression as increased compression is the enemy of high rpms and while increasing the compression will make the saw more powerful it will not contribute to increased top-end rpms. Power is not the problem in getting a saw to cut faster, but chains speed is. Increasing compression actually will reduce full-throttle rpms. I didn't ask him about jetting, but surely these changes would require more air/fuel flow. All this narrows the power band and raises the rpm that the saw comes into the power band, otherwise not good, other than the fact that you are going to be doing your cutting with it wide open anyway, so who really cares how low it comes on song?

The sound of logging operations off in the distance is almost constant around this creek bottom. You know when you are listening to a performance-tuned saw: they are on a whole 'nother level from the other saws you can hear on the crew. I bet they are working the owner like a rented mule!