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What company makes the best rear brake shoes?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 1997tacomav6, Jun 5, 2018.

  1. Jun 6, 2018 at 8:18 PM
    #21
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    OME 2.5,Tundra 17s,Falken Wildpeak AT3W hitch w/ 7-pin, ARE cap, JVC HU w/BT, HID/LED lights
    when I get around to fixing my e-brake on the passenger side I'll have to remember to take pics.
     
    1997tacomav6[OP] likes this.
  2. Jun 6, 2018 at 9:33 PM
    #22
    DrZ

    DrZ Well-Known Member

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    The rear shoes are supposed to adjust every time you pull the parking brake. As the shoes wear they will apply less force if they haven't been auto-adjusted by the parking brake.

    I don't see how the dealer said they are working correctly if they don't lock up with the parking brake.

    Will the parking brake hold the car on a hill?


    As far as brands of shoes, I know on some Toyotas the shoe lining is not symmetric. I mean the front shoe has less lining on the top part and the rear has less lining on the bottom part if they are installed correctly. But I noticed that aftermarket shoes seem to have the lining extending evenly, so the shoe can be flipped over and it's symmetrical. I'm not sure how much this matters. I don't see this mentioned in the 96 Tacoma repair manual, but in my Corolla repair manual it shows a diagram with the shoes not symmetrical like I tried to explain.
     
  3. Jun 6, 2018 at 9:44 PM
    #23
    ironslippers

    ironslippers What? Me Worry?

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    I went a 180k without as much pulling the drum, in addition I had cheap wheels with tin center caps. the rust made pulling the drum difficult. I ended up destroying the drum, though there was plenty of wear left on the shoes they had glazed significantly. installed new bosch drums and and wagner shoes, I is happy. Ill pull drums sooner in the future.
     
  4. Jun 6, 2018 at 11:21 PM
    #24
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO Well-Known Member

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    Fox 2.5 RR front, 2.0 RR rear from AccuTune Offroad, OME Dakar Leafs, Camburg Uniball UCA's, CBI Offroad Bolt on Sliders w/kickout, Scangauge II Uniden Bearcat 880 w/ 3' Firestick on CBI antenna mount B&M Trans Cooler
    Same with my truck but I was pushing 150K. I knew better but tried non OEM and I got pulsing and bad juju from the rear. I returned promptly and ordered OEM. The shoes had 30% left but the drums were just a few thou in spec, so out they went. My cylinders were leaking too so I picked up some of those as well.
     
  5. Jun 7, 2018 at 8:37 AM
    #25
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    you can use bolts in the threaded part near the center of the drum to back the drum off. I have two proper size bolts in my toolbox for this very reason
     
  6. Jun 7, 2018 at 11:54 AM
    #26
    ironslippers

    ironslippers What? Me Worry?

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    Yep, stripped those out and ended up drillin them out to get puller in there. In hindsight I should have put a torch to the rust.
     
    1997tacomav6[OP] likes this.
  7. Jun 7, 2018 at 12:02 PM
    #27
    ironslippers

    ironslippers What? Me Worry?

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    Interesting you say that, when I installed the Wagners I Noticed they were asymmetrical and after install thought it might be a fail. Not.
     
  8. Jun 7, 2018 at 12:47 PM
    #28
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    04 XCab 4x4 TRD/OR
    OME 2.5,Tundra 17s,Falken Wildpeak AT3W hitch w/ 7-pin, ARE cap, JVC HU w/BT, HID/LED lights
    I sprayed PBlaster on the hub ring so it would soak a little around it and then used a hammer to loosen it after about 5 or so minutes
     
  9. Jun 7, 2018 at 1:11 PM
    #29
    ironslippers

    ironslippers What? Me Worry?

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    I took that approach even before 1st attempt, The drum had broke free (slightly, tight wiggle) almost immediatly. I think the culprit was the cheap tin wheel center caps, that had to be pealed away in pieces. The new drums slid over without a hitch.
     

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