What Did you do to your LX/LC today and BS thread

Oh well now i know what the cause was lol could have been worse

Glad it was on the trail not at highway speeds

 

Yeah for sure. Spare knuckle studs are a good thing to have in your spare parts kit you take with you. Shearing studs is almost always a result of them being loose. It's a good reminder to use Loctite when you service the knuckles or replace seals. They usually only start working loose after the knuckle is opened up for service.

I need to check the torque on mine again.

 

Yah honestly didnt even think of the issue as i had worked on them less than a month ago..... Ill be doing a good knuckle service and loctite going in

 

got a quote for some OME comp coils 5" front and 4" rear

 

His &Hers... All I need now is a white LX450 for my son...

 

Installed the Baja Designs lights...these are nice. Very very nice!

 

Anyone have any tips or tricks to help out before I tear apart my front end to get the 3rd member out? Getting a decent rebuild kit for the front end and will be swapping any bearings I can at the same time front and rear.

 

The knuckle rebuild kits from Cruiser Outfitters are really good kits and include all the seals, gaskets, trunion bearings etc. You can have Kurt add in the wheel bearings. I haven't noticed any discernible difference between the Koyo or Timken wheel bearings but I generally get the Koyos just because they've always worked well. I wouldn't suggest the Marlin inner axle seals if Kurt still offers them as an option. They have a double seal surface but for some reason they have a tendency to leak sooner than OEM ones. I actually used the Marlin ones when I did my front end last year because I already had a kit on my shelf and that's what was in it. So far no issues.

In most cases the steering knuckle shims can just be put back in the way they came out to get proper preload on the trunion bearings.

remember you'll need to lock the diff prior to removing the third member. Have lots of shop towels. Use Loctite on the 17mm brake caliper bolts. They can sometimes work themselves loose after they've been removed. Kinda spooky when you lose a caliper bolt on the road and one of your front wheels locks up when the caliper jams against the wheel. It's also a good idea to Loctite the steering arm nuts (the ones on the bottom of the knuckle.

 

Good info. I had been looking at the Dusier kit as well since I also need to do new brakes all the way around just to make it a 1 stop shop kind of thing.

Good call on locking the diff. I didn't realize that was necessary!!!

 

I was working Saturday in Moab for Jeep Safari but was able to make a little detour on the way down there on Friday. My 15 yr old son, Bjornn was with me so he did some driving and I took some pics since it was a beautiful afternoon.

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For you cruiser guys, especially 80 series owners, if you haven't checked out Wit's End and their products, you should. they've got lots of smaller products that are really well designed and extremely useful parts for cruisers. Joey Romero (owner) is a good dude and I love his attention to detail. I got one of his Fire Extinguisher brackets last week. Simple design but just works and is clean construction.
http://absolute-wits-end.com/

http://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-fire-extinguisher-mount-left-side/

 

im pumped to see hes making the york mount and pulley again

 

Ordered my york 210 kit

 

Wished they had more products for the 100 series.....

 

Ummmm I want those seat bracket mounts... more leg room!

 

Dirty Sevens arrived today... just need the Beadlocks to arrive...

 

So I changed out my suspension today. Autocraft Slinky coils and Icon custom valved 2.0 shocks. Much better control and smooth though the rough stuff at speed, at least for the past 4 hrs or so that it's been on the truck. But I'm here in Moab for the next 3 days so it will be a good test.
I lost a good inch of height (which was fine with me) but gained 6" travel over the OME stuff.

 

Any more specs on the icon shocks? I'm thinking with a remote reservoir one could gain a bit more up travel and some droop so I'm interested in what you came up with Adam.

 

Well I did some good testing of this new suspension in Moab over the weekend. Worked great in the slow technical rock crawling stuff and the better travel kept the tires on the ground so much better. Several places I've been used to lifting a tire with my OME stuff and was able to keep all 4 wheels planted with the Slinky/Icon stuff.

In the fast stuff is where these really shine. I was probably carrying ~40% more speed over rough terrain and whoops than I have been able to with the OME stuff and it feels so much more stable and smooth. The remote reservoir CDC shocks have something like 30 adjustment settings, and the 2.0 emulsion shocks I have are roughly the equivalent of having them set at 4. For most stuff they felt awesome, but on some of the bigger 3-4' whoops they were a little too soft and I was bottoming out. But keep in mind I'm talking about anywhere between 30-50mph over those bigger whoops so I'm not complaining. I drove Darren's truck with the Stage 4 stuff and being able to stiffen up the shocks over that big stuff handled it really well. Darren (owner of Autocraft) took a few guys for rides one night and if you're familiar with the road down to Potato Salad Hill, it's pretty rough but can still be driven at decent speeds. The road is also lined on both sides with basketball sized rocks. Darren was doing 80mph down that road and would put a tire right down the rocks lining the side of road. Pretty crazy! These guys have got these shocks really dialed for 80 series trucks.

As for shock details, there isn't much difference in the length of the shock bodies so there might only be minimal gain in up travel but depending on the coils used, an extra 6" of down travel can be had. The shocks are a 14" stroke. I am using factory bumps in the front and 1" bigger bumpstop in the rear. 37's will work fine with a bit more bumpstop.

 

This is great info Adam. I had been thinking the L shocks from OME were going to be holding back some droop. Did you happen to snap a picture of them side by side? Thanks for doing all this testing