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What did you do?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas' started by Nick54, Jan 3, 2011.

  1. Jan 3, 2011 at 6:24 PM
    #1
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Mentor Ohio
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    ARB Rear Locker & Compressor, Bakflip F1, Antennex 13" flexable antenna, WeatherTech Floor Liners, WeatherTech Side Window Visors, Tacoma Bed Mat, Demello Rock Crushers, Dynamax Ultraflow SS Muffler, TSB 4-Pak Leaf Springs, AFE Pro Dry Filter, Redline Hood Struts, Color Matched Angry Eyelids, Combo Lock Bed Compartments, Bed Mat, Pop-N-Lock, Wet Okoles, Goodyear Duratracs on ProComp 7033's, M101A2 Trailer, Grillcraft Mesh Grill, Light Racing UCA's, King OEM Performance Remote Reservoir Adjustable Front & Rear Shocks, JVC NT3HDT, Blue Sea Aux Fuse Panel, BAMF Behind Grill Light Bracket, Kragen 55W 7" HID's, CBI Front Receiver, Home Link Garage Door Opener, FlyEyez Light Unit, Bud Built Front to Back Skids...
    Given these or similar circumstances, what did you do? I have a 2010 DC Sport and I replaced 265/65/17 Bridgestones with 265/70/17 Duratracs on ProComp 7033 17x9 - They rub the stock mud flaps and front lower inner wheel well. I trimmed the well and the rub points on the flaps and they still rub the flaps. I know I can take them off but don't necessarily want to. Having said all this, if I want to just lift the front the necessary minimum amount to clear, how should I accomplish it? I had the rear spring TSB done, I say this just so you have an idea of the rear to front body set. Any advise is appreciated.
     
  2. Jan 3, 2011 at 6:27 PM
    #2
    Chris(NJ)

    Chris(NJ) Well-Known Member

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    Debadged, GC Mesh Grill, Yellow Fogs, Color Matched Headlights w/ Retros, Diff Breather Mod; mickey thompson classic IIs, 5100s, toytec springs, Dakar Leaf pack, ss brake lines, Lots more...just check the build page.
    5100s is probably the least expensive and you have a few lift options. Start small and move up in increments until it clears :)
     
  3. Jan 3, 2011 at 6:28 PM
    #3
    PWhite13

    PWhite13 Well-Known Member

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    I would get Bilstein 5100's for the front and set them at either .85" or the next one up (sorry I forget what it is, I think 1.3"). That should clear the rubbing.

    Edit: Chris beat me.
     
  4. Jan 3, 2011 at 11:01 PM
    #4
    RZRob

    RZRob Well-Known Member

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    Just remember that if it rubs now, it can rub again whenever the suspension compresses to the same height - albeit may become more infrequent with the lift. I'm suffering a similar dilemma.

    RZ Rob
     
  5. Jan 3, 2011 at 11:04 PM
    #5
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD .....

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    Billys set @ 1.5" (3rd notch) would look great and level your truck out...you still might have to remove your flaps though. I did
     
  6. Jan 4, 2011 at 3:50 AM
    #6
    grivera

    grivera Well-Known Member

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    Hanover, MD
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    '08 DC SR5 4x4, Desert Sand Mica
    Rear Suspension TSB, Bilstein 5100 on all 4 corners-fronts set at 1.75". BFG A/T's @ 265/75/16; Access LE Roll-up cover; Iron Cross Tube SS Steps; Fumoto valve; WeatherTech Liners; AFE Pro-Dry; front side windows tinted 20%; TW Decal!
    Billies settings are .85", 1.75", and 2.5"- 1.75" is a nice setting to compliment the rear TSB, it pretty much levels it...
     
  7. Jan 4, 2011 at 3:55 AM
    #7
    Taco-NB

    Taco-NB MMMMM Taco's

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    5100's at 2.5 and AAL with rear TSB.
     
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