What do these dash lights mean

I had to reset some codes and just went to napa and they let me use their scan tool, is there a difference in doing this or paying the dealer? Mine was free and I reset the codes myself.

 

I would highly doubt it. I reset my codes using a piece of wire and the break pedal.

I imagine the dealer would make you pay for the technician's time, but it depends on how your particular dealership is.

 

I have these same lights on. I have an abs kill switch wired up to the ABS ECU. The lights came on after wheeling with new tires. I noticed a plastic clip broke on the wheel sensor wires at drivers/rear. Might have been pinched between shock and leaf spring while flexing. Clearance is pretty tight there.

I checked all my wiring and fuses and replaced a few corroded connectors. I also pulled each wheel sensor wire harness off and blew it out with the compressor. They were kinda dirty. I think I might try that code reset trick with tapping the brake pedal and see what happens.

So what's the deal with jumping the wires for the code? Is that diagram of the obd2 under the dash? Does toyota have super-good code readers that nobody else can have? Selfish..

 

Nah, you can get an OBD2 that will read ABS and SRS codes.

 

I tested my wheel sensors yesterday and if found out that they are all getting power except Drivers/Rear like I thought. Could that be a bad wire harness or is that deff the sensor. The dealer does not take returns on electrical parts.

I checked the codes and I get ABS/34 which is for left rear wheel sensor/wheel sensor circuit malfunction. I also get VSC/43 which is for decel sensor. I noticed that the two codes have one thing in common: Brake actuator (skid control ECU). How do I check that? That's not the whole friggin thing by the master cylinder is it? Coz I tapped into that to do my mod. If it's bad, should I have put a fuse on my line?

Good thread. I would have never known how to check for all this.

 

I see your problem. You're using metric gauges. Swap your gauges with a US standard unit version and it will run just fine. It's science.

 

Since you ended up with the same codes as me (mine ended up being the harness):

- Use a multimeter to check your harness
- If part of it fails you can either hope to damage is easily noticeable as mine was, or replace that section, and you should be on your way.
- If you harness is good, then process of elimination it's the sensor.

As for the testing harness:
I ended up testing from the brake control to find out that there was a fault. Jumper in the sensor end, resistance test form the Brake ECU. Once I found out there as a fault in one of the wires (can't remember which now) I tested again from each of the connecters along the line.

 

You are saying take the harness off and jump the two terminals and test it from the ecu end? Which one of the wires on the ecu is for that circuit? I have never tested for resistance so what should I expect for a reading?

I replaced the sensor anyways since the wires seemed intact. The dealer told me the sensor was bad, but that didn't solve my problem. I tested the vehicle speed sensor and I got 0.81v at idle. Should I be getting 12v from this or is this sensor bad?

It would make sense if my harness on the wheel speed sensor was damaged. I have a pinched brake line by my leaf springs and the sensor wires were pulled off of their plastic retainer thing. The wires don't look to be damaged, but whatever happened probably pulled on the harness too hard. The dealer only sells full sets of wiring from front to back. If the harness is bad I might try to rig it for now and look for one at a junkyard.

 

If that the case, detach the rearmost section of the wire harness,

Take both ends and test resistance between the two (the lower the resistance the better, should be below 10 olms if I'm not mistaken)

one you figure out which of the four wires in the harness are chewed up, up you can find the wire break and mend it.

 

Awesome! Thanks.