What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Thank you!
You are correct. The seatbelt bolt locations are the only attachment. The plywood is double thick in this area, 1.5" total.

 

@Atlantaco78, nice job. Any particular reason some of the tee nuts are counterbored deeply? Just asking to capitalize on your hard work and thoughts if I go this plywood route.

 

I counter bored all but 2 of them. I could have done them all but saw no reason for the 2 in the front center. I did it on the sides to prevent sharp points when reaching under the platform. The others were to prevent low spots where it could possibly make contact with the carpet or plastic storage tray.
The bolts are all 1/4-20x1-1/4" for counter bored holes. The other 2 are 1/4-20x1-1/2".
There are 6 bolts in total that hold the vertical front board on, all 1/4-20x1-1/2". These thread into threaded inserts (rivets) in the aluminum angles.
It all seems sturdy.
Thank you!

 

Do not go with cheap pine plywood, my opinion. Do not know what Atlantaco used. Birch ply or "whitewoood" ... maybe maple ply. Common pine or OSB (oriented-strand-board) has too rough a surface to completely smooth out.

 

Got a slick northern light pic from VA (with the road tires and ugly wheels, MPG is killing me right now)

 

Once I wrapped my head around the engine design the way it acts makes sense and I realized it has plenty of power. With light throttle application it is tuned for fuel economy and feels weak but when you gun it literally everything changes; it ditches the atkinson cycle, switches to direct injection and downshifts to put the engine into the power band. I think most people just never really put their foot down. That said I did test drive an older 3rd gen that felt much more lethargic and my guess is that it hadnt received the ecu update designed to address some of the lack of power issues so maybe some older 3rd gens really dont have as much get up and go as my 2022.

 

where did you place the air chuck/nipple? Looks like an extension heading downwards…..

 

Hopefully your issue isn’t the same as mine. The service manager said that they used a stethoscope on the diff when it was lifted which leads me to believe the actually have seen this before. Your truck and mine were probably the last batch of tacos before the factory was retooled for the 4th gen, so I wonder if they were just throwing parts at them to get them out the door. I don’t really know how it works but that scenario wouldn’t surprise me. If you have a reputable dealer near you I’d say take it in and mention noise coming from the rear. From what you’re describing it’s sounds like the same issue I had.

 

Those powder coated or rattle canned?

 

FWIW - Regarding your thoughts of the noise being “shoes/pads are seating or a bit loose”: the front disc pads/calipers/brake assy makes a noise when I move mine (’18 TRD Sport with 66K miles) after being parked. Several notices to the dealer during the warranty period each resulted in their diagnosis as “pads releasing”. I replaced the pads and pins about 15K miles ago and no change to that noise. Stupid design but it’s been harmless so far - other than being offensive to my ears and better judgement. (I have a buddy with a 2nd Gen and he has the same noise.)

 

It’s 2 part polyurethane Imron industrial aviation paint. Toughest paint you can buy, before power coating was a thing. Short answer - Rattle can!

 

Are you sure it's not just the brake pads? They float and can make a noise when shifting in the caliper. I usually only hear mine do it on the first drive of the day.

 

There's no law says you can't sleep on the same mattress as your dog.

 

I was wondering what that clicking was. I can hear that whenever I reverse direction and apply the brakes. Just the first application.

 

But would you be that unkind to your dog?

 

Would have used this but couldn't find it in 1H5 Cement. Had to go base coat/clear coat.

 

It really would not have worked with my lab anyway. A 95lb'er. He'd hog the whole space.

 

This old meat head sleeps in my bed most nights.

 

I just picked up my truck from getting this install done. Dropped some weight (50-60 pounds) and added a lot more capacity switching over from dual Odyssey AGM batteries to dual lithium batteries, one Antigravity 40Ah starter battery with Restart function (built in jump starter with remote control so you don’t need to pop the hood) and one Dakota Lithium 135Ah house battery. Redarc BCDC1240D with Renogy 200W solar panel installed on the roof of my Super Pacific charges my house battery. I supplied the Leitner Designs Wirelock wire guide (https://www.leitnerdesigns.com/collections/accessories/products/wirelok-wire-guide-system) and the ShittCo Solar Thingymabob https://www.instagram.com/p/C9QMu2vyrNv/?igsh=MWF5bXRpd2MxbGlrcg==
They supplied the KC wire hider (https://www.kchilites.com/universal-wire-hider-kc-6300.html) to get the solar wiring down the windshield and under the hood. They also ran power to a Bluesea fuse block on the molle panel in the camper.

 

Had the TRD Pro exhaust installed