What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

RockHed · May 26, 2018

johnny6 said: ↑

got this sweet hit & run while parked downtown for 30 minutes

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Dislike

Time for an upgrade!

DubfromGA · May 26, 2018

mrproduxn said: ↑

Wife, 2 of my kids and a grandkid are at Atlantic Beach NC this weekend. I had car and lawn work to catch up on. After a hard day of work had to grill up a treat. This is for you @DubfromGA There is a t-bone under all those mushrooms and A1 sauce.

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You are gonna laugh at the irony here..........my wife is in Emerald Isle.....right next-door to Atlantic Beach, NC this weekend.

Tonight's eats for son & I were ribeye steaks, onions & portabellas and a baked potato.

Hilarious.

KTJO 4x4 · May 26, 2018

DVS1 said: ↑

New TRD grey rims and Nitto Terra Grappler G2 265/70/17

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Those look really sharp. Great selection!

KTJO 4x4 · May 26, 2018

SurfratTX said: ↑

I did my start button with a decal. I think it was $5. Instructions in English too! ; )

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I can’t wait to get that dash kit. Just don’t have the extra money right now to purchase them and who knows what is going to happen at the dealership. I look forward to it tho. Did you get the full or basic package? I don’t remember their actual terms. I can’t see myself installing the full kit but I feel like their are some pieces on the full set that I would like to have that aren’t on the basic. Curious what all you did

SandyTaco4x4 · May 30, 2018

Anyone need a tailpipe?

SandyTaco4x4 · May 26, 2018

Rear Dif Breather Mod.

KTJO 4x4 · May 26, 2018

Hellvillain said: ↑

gone is the janky universal cb mount on my bed basket, replaced with a Caliraised tailgate mount.
I ran the wire thru a grommet underneath the center of the rear seats (a tad of silicone to keep it waterproof), along the frame under the bed and up behind the drivers side plastic bit. It clears drivethru's now!
Also my black handles and blackout interior trim came in. project for another day.
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What bed rack is that. Looks like it would work under a Diamondback Bed Cover as well. Is there a weight rating on them? Looking for the right fit for my setup so I can mount a CVT on top.

SandyTaco4x4 · May 26, 2018

Learned how to use my spare tire lock to remove the spare for some work under there today. Also flipped it while it was down so the valve stem was accessible.

Grossomotto · May 26, 2018

Nice I’d go even further and change the valve out to a two way or just an open filter like some have done

SandyTaco4x4 said: ↑

Rear Dif Breather Mod.
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20tacoma17 · May 26, 2018

Getting close

orion808 · May 26, 2018

RobP62 said: ↑

Finally installed my Stainless Steel Redline Tuning Hood Struts I bought on the group buy. Install was straight forward but as usual, not as easy for me as most.......Overall I have solid strut mounts and didn't put any dimples or holes in the hood. Now the hood lifts on it's own. Two hands on the hood help to secure it closed.

Obviously before with the OEM Hood support in place.

I bought the Harbor Freight Heavy Duty, two hand Lever action rivet gun for this job and for anyone that uses less, I have mad respect. Those 3/16" steel rivets were the meanest I have ever used. They were no match for the gun I bought though ($20 ).

Because this is a seriously long rivet gun The hood with the OEM support might have been a little tight. I didn't take any chances. I used a cargo bar to raise the hood to the limit. Yes, there is a limit.

Here's a shot of where I braced the bar inside the engine bay. This was very secure and no way was anything slipping the way I had it positioned.

This will give you an idea of how much extra height I attained by lifting the hood to the max open position. As a reference, with the OEM support the struts would be nearly in position at the fender locations. Here you can see it is more that 6" away. I removed the cargo bar and put the OEM hood support in place to make the final connection of the hood struts.

Once the new hood struts were in place there was no more need for this thing which can get in the way so out with it!

The finished project.

Is it a frivolous mod? Not for me. To me these things should be standard on the Tacoma. I paid $109.91 shipped to my door for the Elite version of the struts. Black was less and would have worked too but it was a group buy discount so.... Add the tool $20.00, add some new drill bits (yes, I have drill bits but I wanted to be sure I had new, sharp bits) $4.00, so all in all, $135. which is what the struts cost regular price, but I also now have some extra tools I can use for other projects.
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I don't ever focus the cost of the tool to be part of a project or mod unless it is a one use tool...especially when I'm telling the wife how much the mod cost.

Nice work man. I had to muster up some Herculean strength. I'm not a big or strong guy. Those rivets are beasts. I did one strut, went and picked up the wife, then did the other strut. Have my muscles time to remove the lactic acid buildup that occurred...lol.

SurfratTX · May 26, 2018

KTJO 4x4 said: ↑

I can’t wait to get that dash kit. Just don’t have the extra money right now to purchase them and who knows what is going to happen at the dealership. I look forward to it tho. Did you get the full or basic package? I don’t remember their actual terms. I can’t see myself installing the full kit but I feel like their are some pieces on the full set that I would like to have that aren’t on the basic. Curious what all you did
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I got the basic and still didn’t use every single piece but most of it. I thought the full kit was too much CF like overkill. I do like it!

SurfratTX · May 26, 2018

bluedegeon said: ↑

Added my frontrunner rack on my shell.

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Nice truck!

moe2o4 · May 27, 2018

So thanks to @Nimble9 he posted a great deal on a TRD Stainless exhaust for $150 on the Northeast Craigslist thread. Picked the thing up a few days ago and just got it put on the truck this morning and wow it sounds good for it only being a 4 cylinder! Nice low tone that's not ridiculously annoying or ricy! I'll have to get a video of it here in the next few days. But it also backfires occasionally going downhill when I'm in a lower gear, that probably has something to do with the LCE Header! I'm very pleased about it!

Hellvillain · May 26, 2018

KTJO 4x4 said: ↑

What bed rack is that. Looks like it would work under a Diamondback Bed Cover as well. Is there a weight rating on them? Looking for the right fit for my setup so I can mount a CVT on top.
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http://www.kbvoodoo.com/shop/toyota...-use-with-tonneau-covers-fits-years-2005-2016
they're meant for RTTs! I can stand/walk across them no problems. Although I'm not sure about other covers other than oem.

Rob Daman · May 26, 2018

While washing HardShellTaco,I discovered rust spots and overall paint roughness that most likely came from grinding the frame for the CMC.

Claying with detailer took care of it 1.5 hours later.

Thebush121 · May 26, 2018

Upgraded tweeters, installed pop and lock for my tailgate and put decals in the Tacoma on the tailgate.

zslayer23600 · May 26, 2018

Plastidipped the grille and badges on my quicksand Taco.

KTJO 4x4 · May 26, 2018

SurfratTX said: ↑

I got the basic and still didn’t use every single piece but most of it. I thought the full kit was too much CF like overkill. I do like it!
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Yeah. I definitely think the full kit is way overkill. I just wish you could pick and choose which pieces you wanted. Lol.

KTJO 4x4 · May 26, 2018

KTJO 4x4 said: ↑

Morimoto XBT Color Control LED Lighting For NEW Profile Pixel DRL Boards

Well I figured since @motorsport36 still has my headlights open to install the new Clear Reflectors into my headlights that are replacing my broken tab ones, I might as well send him one more thing. Just found my solution to be able to have my Amber Yellow DRLs: 16-19 Toyota Tacoma Profile Pixel DRL Boards that replace the factory DRL Boards made by Morimoto. These are full replacements of the factory DRL Boards just like @mesojdm Amber Orange replacement DRL Boards.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/1...Toyota+Tacoma&preselect=&preselect_restrict=1

PROFILE PERFORMANCE: The automotive aftermarket’s best name in LED Lighting and when it comes to upgraded LED DRL Boards, their new tech and it's features make it a no brainer! Fact is that while the rest of the industry is busy sticking their name on a generic or standing still with the same-old same-old; Profile is working hand-in-hand with the industry’s experts to produce products with the performance and features that we all expect. Our customers are loving the new Pixel DRL Boards that they're cranking out, and here's why!

RGBWA: With their powerful RGBW LEDs, The Profile Pixel Tacoma DRL boards are capable of producing an amazingly clear neutral white, a pure amber, and every other color in the spectrum for that matter.. Reds, blues, greens, teals, purples, pinks...you name it! The system is designed to run in white mode until you activate the RGB system through your app controller, at which point you can tune their color exactly to your liking. Turn the RGB system off, and they'll automatically default back to white to keep you street legal. All that aside, and these things are just plain bright...easily outshining the factory LED setup. Pixel = Perfection!

SWITCHBACK: Profile’s specially designed drivers have a separate input wire for your turn signal circuit. When triggered, the LED driver will automatically interrupt the RGB/white mode and flash the integrated amber LED chips for a modern switchback turn signal in your DRL position. When the turn signal stops, the RGB or white mode will automatically return to its previous setting. Functional

OEM FUNCTIONALITY: All Pixel LED DRLs are 100% direct swaps in place of the original boards, and even though they also add a full RGB and turn signal function - they will also retain the factory low/high intensity white daytime running light functionality too. All wiring is lined with TechFlex mesh for an OEM-like appearance and reliability. The LED drivers are housed inside an aluminum housing that's been anodized with an attractive matte black finish and laser engraved with the Profile Pixel graphics.

INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS & WIRING SCHEMATIC

If you click on the Install Guide on their website, you will see the following:

After going over the Wiring Schematics for this install, I thought it would be nice to add this to my write up in case others are interested. First off, these are going to be badass. The install is pretty much Plug & Play with one or two wiring modifications. Nothing crazy at all. So here goes...

Step1: Open your headlight housing
Step 2: Locate your OEM DRL Boards and remove it from its location.
Step 3: Replace the OEM DRL Boards with the NEW Pixel DRL Boards.

Step 4: Reseal Housing with NEW Pixel Driver inside the housing.

Step 5: Fish the Wire Harness on the Pixel DRL Driver that connects to the XBT Color Control from the bottom of the Housing up through the Highbeam Location. You will need to remove the Black Grommet that surrounds the Highbeam first.

Pull the Wire Harness through most the way. Leave a little slack just to be able to maneuver the Pixel DRL Driver when it’s inside the Housing. Cut a slice in the middle of the Black Grommet for the Wire Harness to fit through. Then reinstall the Black Grommet.

It’s a pretty snug fit so I’m not really worried about it. Plus it is a very clean look.

Step 6: Fish the three New Pixel DRL Driver Wires through the bottom and up through the DRL location on the backside of the Housing.

Step 7: Maneuver the Pixel DRL Driver Inside the Headlight Housing. It fits perfectly through the bottom opening. I used 3M tape to secure it to the side on the inside. Here is a picture of where it is located just from the outside view.

Here it is on the inside of the Headlight Housing.

Step 8: Connect the Pixel DRL Driver to the NEW Pixel DRL Boards.

Output to DRL Board has the 5 Wire Harness and the Input has the 3 Wires that connect directly to the OEM White Harness Connector Wires.

Once they are connected, just push the Wire Harness inside the Housing. There is plenty of room.

Now just reinstall the Cover

Step 9: There are two ways to complete this next step. You can either use the T-Taps that are included in the kit or you can cut the end of the White OEM Harness off and connect the necessary wires. I recommend cutting the White OEM Harness and connecting the Wires.

OEM DRL Harness Connector

OEM Plug Connector that connects on the Outside of the Housing.

Black Grommet to Housing w/ Waterproof Seal

Outside View

Inside View

OEM White Harness Connector that connects on the Inside of the Housing.

As I recommend in this step, cut the White Wire Harness Connector off, strip both sets of wires, solder the necessary wires together, and then shrink wrap them.

Once that is cut off, I removed the Black Wire Loom temporarily so I could connect the Pixel DRL Wires to the OEM Wires.

In order to solder the two wires together, I like to use a combination of a heat shrink wrap and solder seal. These are the sleeves I have and use often with my wiring.

Now that we have gone over the OEM DRL Wiring Harness, you see that the OEM Harness Wires are Black, Orange, and Red. The Pixel Driver Harness Wires are Black, White, and Orange.

Color Code:

Pixel Driver Ground (-) Black => OEM Harness Ground (-) Black
Pixel Driver Dim (+) White => OEM Harness Dim (+) Orange
Pixel Driver Turn Signal (+) Orange => OEM Harness Power (+) Red

After reading the note on the install guide located on their website, you will see that the OEM Red Wire is no longer needed. You will also notice that there is no internal wiring for the OEM Turn Signal. You will need to tap the turn signal input into the positive (+) Wire on the harness that feeds your turn signal bulb on the outside, rear of the housing. Therefore, in order to do this as a factory install. You want to connect the Pixel Driver Orange Wire to the OEM Red Wire as shown above and keep the factory waterproof seal in tact with the Black Grommet. There is no need to drill a hole in the housing or in the Black Grommet. Reinstall the DRL Black Grommet

Step 10: Since the OEM Red Wire is no longer needed, in this step we are going to cut the Red Wire in half on the backside of the housing so we can use the OEM Red Wire for the New Pixel DRL Oreange Wire that connects to the Turn Signal (+).

Make sure you use a wire cap or heatshrink over the end of the OEM Wire that will not be used anymore before reinstalling the Wire Loom.

Step 11: Now we need to lengthen the Red Wire coming out of the DRL Grommet so we are able to connect it to the Turn Signal (+). I used the same technique as I did above.

I used heatshrink on both ends, flex wire loom, and a T-Tap that was included in the kit. Very clean and professional look.

Step 12: Install Complete and ready to be placed on the truck.

Step 13: Connect OEM Red Wire to OEM Turn Signal Positive (+) Wire. Use a multi-meter to identify the correct wire. (Pictures to come)

Step 14: Reconnect the Factory OEM Plug. (Pictures to come)

Enjoy!
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Just updated my write up on my New Pixel DRLs. The install is complete now other than not having my truck to install my new headlights on. Please take a look. I highly recommend these. It was a super easy install. I can’t wait to see them in action. I will definitely post my final pics once

20tacoma17 said: ↑

Getting close

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These look badass my friend! Looks like a combination of mine and Mesojdm. Such great taste!!

I contemplated getting the halos for my Lowbeam, but thought it would be too much in one small area. I still need to get a White LED Bulb for my Side Reflector. I’m thinking White but still tossing around the idea of a Switchback so when my blinker is on, it also lights up Amber on the Side with it. Thoughts? Your lights look great, but I’m glad I beat you to receive mine

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