What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Ebay.

Make sure you grab the 60mm version.

 

If your switch light is always on, there's something wrong with your wiring.

I looked at the wiring diagram for a typical CH4x4 switch. For the internal switch lights to work properly. One wire needs to go to a +12V (switched, off when truck is off) source, another wire goes to the "load" which is usually a relay (especially for lighting), a third wire goes to your dash lighting circuit (so the "night time" switch light only comes on when it's dark), and the fourth wire is ground. Both of these lights inside the switch ('on" and "night time") should be off a fused circuit that is off when the truck is off. If this is the case, all the internal switch lights will be off when the truck is off.

Not knowing anything about your light bar I can't be more specific. Again, generally speaking, the high-current lighting circuit (including relay) should stay in the engine bay and only one or two low-current wires need go into the cab.

 

Yeah everything is in the bay and only 3 wires came through the wall. I know how to fix it, just have to wire the power to an add a circuit. It’s just I messed up and all the wires are extra short and would just be a major pain. Better off buying a new switch. What I have works and a single led wont do enough to kill a battery so it’s fine for now. I’ll fix it when I add more.

 

What are you planning to use this for? I only ask because if it's nothing that requires a lot of power, you can tap into the +12v constant power wire on the back of the radio.

I know this link is to 2nd gen stuff, but the pinouts for the 1st, 2nd, and the 3rd gens are the same (wire colors have changed tho). Basically, you want to tap the wire attached to pin "D" in the blue connector under the "1987 and newer" section here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2015-radio-harness-question.347008/

EDIT: The wire is solid white for our 3rd gens as seen here:

 

Easily doubled the value of my ride with this free upgrade

 

Hi there. Thank you for replying. It's for my

VicoVation Vico-Power Plus Battery Discharge Prevention (BDP) Device for Parking Mode

battery manager for my dash cam. I wanted my Dashcam to record always even when my truck is switched off. So I plug my dashcam to this device instead of the cigarette lighter or hard wiring it, and the device gives current to my dashcam and protect it as well as my truck battery from completely draining. The Vicovation battery manager has 3 wires. Ground, ACC (switched power) and Constant power (un-switched).

It doesn't need a lot of power, But does in order to reach the +12v constant power wire on the back of the radio, do I have to remove the dash panel and the radio/head unit out to reach for it? I haven't yet done that.
Damn. I thought this was going to be easier, but looks like I have to do a lot more work than I want to get constant power . I was trying to find a quick and less messy way to do this, and avoid feeding a line from the battery through the firewall.

 

There are quite a few dash cams that have small built in batteries so they can record while the vehicle is off either my vibration or movement. Might be an easier solution to your problem.

 

Mine is like that, internal battery.

 

I already bought my dashcam and battery manager. I can't go back now. Just only wanted to know of the wires to splice into and nothing else.

 

I thought I read on here that the Brake Controller plug on the drivers side under the dash has a constant hot and a accessory on wire in the plug. Which ones, I don't know but a 4 dollar (or free sometimes) Harbor Freight voltage tester would tell you which. Then you can just tap.

 

Gulp! Straight to the jugular.
Voltage tester was going to be my second option if I couldn't find help.

 

This is a good thing no?

Just so we are clear, this plug is for a brake controller for anything you tow with it's own brakes like a utility trailer or camper.
Even if you are towing something like this and use a brake controller this will not affect that operation.
This has nothing to do with the brakes for the truck and in no way will influence how those work.

Edit - just be sure to only tap the always on and the accessory on and nothing else in that plug though.

Just to be sure you understand

 

what tire specs

 

For the wire that is supposed to lead from the switch to the dash lights circuit, tap into the panel fuse. (5A)

 

Removing the bezel around the radio is super super easy. Just pull off the trim around the radio (takes 5 seconds without any tools) and then use a 10mm socket wrench to unscrew the 4 bolts around the radio. Thats it.



That will go for any radio in our 3rd gens...doesn't matter if you have Entune Premium, Plus, JBL, etc.

 

Known cheaters. Caught. Time and time again. You have Broncos color in your truck .Go Broncos.

 

FIFY

 

255/85/16 ST Maxx. They fit just fine without the lift, but I wanted the heavy duty Dakars so lift it was

 

Added some D-rings over my bed bars and I think I got my water port mount just about dialed in.