What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

All I did was clean with alcohol. I brush painted them with touch up paint. I’ll see how long it lasts.

 

So I’ve been reading about lifts for a while. But today I read TWICE “kyb top hat”. Quick google explains it pretty quick. But can u not use whatever holds the factory strut together? Is this needed with specific setups or is it an improvement over the stock version?

 

Blackout OR wheel decals and TRD center cap decals. Essentially put a bunch of stickers on my truck. Very happy with the look, but they were a pain in the neck.

 

I gained about 1.5" at the rear but the ride smoothness when empty did not change IMO. The biggest advantage is when you load up the receiver with towing or fill the box with a big load the truck does not sink so the back end looks like it is dragging. Therefore, driveability is not compromised.
I would say this kit is an easy DIY with patience and the right tools.

 

Use spring compressors that can be rented (for free) from your local auto parts store, compress the springs, disassemble shock assembly, move parts over to new shock, reassemble, then release the tension from the spring compressors.

There is also a no spring compressor method that you can find videos of on YouTube.

If you've never done suspension work before find someone in the area with experience to help. It can be dangerous.

Stock springs on 5100s have to be compressed/preloaded (via moving the spring seat up on the shock) which can lead to a stiff/harsh ride. Aftermarket springs won't need the spring seat moved up as high to achieve the same amount of lift which should translate into a better ride.

Pros/cons-

Stock springs = free but harsh (maybe)
Aftermarket = extra money but better ride

 

Buy a 2020 for the power seat. And the cameras. But mostly the power seat XD

 

With the 5100’s you can use the stock coils.

 

Got my CMC done today. now its motivation to get my wheels and tires mounted. AMAZING work done by @Timbo's Customs. Thanks again bud.

 

I just got them so I could keep the stock strut assembly together in case I ever need to swap them out in the future.

 

Got new shoes on my new 2019 TRD OR!

Now I gotta try to sell those old tires with 350 miles on them! LOL

 

Took her out to the forest......

Lots open camp sites at White Oaks Campground.....

Literally had the place to ourselves......

China Camp was pretty empty also.....

Beautiful views......


Victim of the 2016 Soberanes Fire........

 

I realized I didn't answer your other question about front to rear lift. Right now the difference is about 1.5- 2" difference from front to rear since I added Bilstein 5100 on the rear yesterday. You can just add a spacer to the front to get minor lift or do what I'm going to do in the fall, replace the front with Bilstein 5100s which have 4 settings for spring preload lift. I like the unloaded stance of the truck leaning forward a bit. I would like to end up with about 1/2" difference from front to rear.

 

Put a set of pro comp sports on, 265/75/16 method nv wheels stock height.

 

Made a heat shield for the transfer case to block some heat form the driver’s side exhaust. The exhaust reroute puts this section of pipe about 1 inch form the transfer case.

 

Ordered the lift, wheels, & tires today....

 

Adding spring preload via something like retaining rings on the perch or with a threaded perch raise the ride height but do not stiffen the springs at all, the spring rate remains the same. I’m no truck suspension expert but depending on suspension droop and travel the ride could be screwed up by the loaded up spring when the shocks are extended. Ideally it would seem that you would want a longer stroke and longer overall length shock. With that, the springs won’t need more preload but the additional travel could over stress the stock springs if they were not designed for the amount of travel you would end up with.

With longer shocks (dampers) and longer travel you would also need to reestablish other suspension geometry (longer sway bar links and caster camber adjustments along with other subtleties I am not thinking of. With that accomplished, you would want softer springs to a do the same terrain at the same speeds. If the plan was to go real fast, you would need springs to resist bottoming and or shocks with position modified damping like the pro’s internal by-pass design Fox shocks. Damping and setup at all stages could be modified to suit your particular needs. It’s a long slippery slope I hope to avoid. Been there, do that.

 

Was the vinyl hard to remove? Heat gun?

 

First mod

 

285’s?

 

285/70/17